Es Fum – one of Mallorca’s five Michelin-starred restaurants – opens for the new season today, with a new executive chef at the helm. Rafael Sánchez has taken the post vacated last year by the Austrian chef Thomas Kahl.
Rafael – who was the chef of the former Plat d’Or restaurant (Arabella Golf Hotel), Michelin-starred in its day – moved with his family from Badalona to Mallorca in 1974, when he was just 17 days old. If following in the footsteps of Kahl was a daunting prospect, you wouldn’t know it. Rafa seems to be a modest and down-to-earth chef, who’s learnt his craft carefully over the past two decades. His cuisine is based on high-quality seasonal local ingredients.
The tasting format menu from previous years continues at Es Fum, but the creative new dishes are Rafa’s own. Choose from 6-course, 8-course, and 10-course tasting menus, and vegetarian and children’s menus. Even junior gourmets are catered for here – not a chicken nugget in sight!
I was lucky enough to attend the press lunch to launch the new season. We were all curious to know how Rafa intended to impress us – and it didn’t take long to find out. After some very delicious canapés , we sat down to a menu comprising dishes from the various tasting menus:
Shellfish tasting plate with a sea water and lime emulsion, salad leaves and sprouts
Cold cannelloni of mango and cod with confit tomatoes and vinaigrette of oranges and spring herbs
Infusion of green asparagus with a ‘sausage’ of cuttlefish and sobrasada
The restaurant is located within the 5-star St Regis Mardavall Mallorca hotel, with indoor and terrace seating. The latter has views of the gardens and Mediterranean beyond. It’s open from Thursdays to Mondays inclusive.