You would think it would be a daunting prospect to take over the reins of a Michelin-starred restaurant, where the chef was renowned for his superb and highly creative cuisine. But that obviously didn’t bother chef Rafael Sánchez when he moved at the beginning of 2014 to the St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort, where he is in charge of the Michelin-starred Es Fum and the Aqua restaurants.
Es Fum’s concept remains the same – a choice of tasting menus – but 41-year-old Rafael has made the cuisine his own and the dishes he produces reflect his particular creativity. Michelin obviously approved of the change: Es Fum retained its Michelin star for 2015.
An invitation to lunch
I recently attended a press lunch to experience dishes from some of this season’s tasting menus. Unfortunately, the lunch overlapped with a radio interview I couldn’t change, so I missed the last couple of courses.
After delicious canapés on the terrace, we took our seats in Es Fum, and began with a creative appetizer, presented to look like a dish of sweets, before ‘the main event’.
Carpaccio of Mallorcan prawn, served with lime ‘granizada’, and pine nut and dried tomato vinaigrette
Foie terrine, with sesame, port and melon
Cod with green tea, citric fruits, and bulgur wheat
Black Angus entrecote with violet potato and loquats
Carbón citrico vegetal – Citrus ‘charcoal’
Sadly I had to leave after the fish course – which was served after a sorbet of ‘pomada’ (the popular Menorcan drink of Mahon gin and lemonade), made in front of us, using liquid nitrogen. Always a fun spectacle. It was a small, but tempting introduction to this season’s tasting menus: 6-, 8-, and 10-course, as well as one for junior gourmets (kids, to you and me!). They also offer a vegetarian tasting menu and I’m determined to try that some time. Restaurants offering good vegetarian food on Mallorca deserve recognition!
Funnily enough, I had to leave Es Fum – and Rafael Sánchez’s delicious cuisine – to do a radio interview with Fernando Pérez Arellano (from the Michelin-starred Zaranda restaurant)! It’s not everyday I get to spend time with two chefs recognised by the famous red book . . .
Tomorrow, I’ll tell you about an amazing gastronomic experience being offered in July at the St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort: a dinner created by seven top chefs . . . from Mallorca, San Sebastian, Ischia, and Germany.
My thanks to Araceli Bosch from communications agency Deacorde for sending me her photos of the meat and dessert courses that I missed!
Es Fum is open Thursday-Monday, 19:30-22:30h.