As residents of Mallorca, we can use the island’s public transport free of charge until the end of 2023 – courtesy of our Transports de les Illes Balears Targeta Intermodal card. As the designated driver, I’m happy to let a train or bus driver do the work for a change – and not have the hassle of searching for somewhere to park the car, a task that’s increasingly difficult during the high season in Mallorca.

Earlier this year we decided to use our free-travel card to try some unfamiliar restaurants in towns and villages along the route of the Manacor-Palma railway. The train took us to the town of Lloseta – known to some foodies as the birthplace of well-known chef Santi Taura, who moved his Lloseta restaurant DINS Santi Taura to Palma, where it has since gained a Michelin star.

We were in Lloseta to have lunch for the first time at chef/patron David Palomo’s Es Garum, which opened in April 2022. We ate à la carte then and remember a tasty venison dish. It’s not a meat I see often on menus in Mallorca so we seized the chance to eat it. After a good lunch, we resolved to return.

Dinner at Es Garum

We finally made it last week for the July tasting menu, which I’d seen publicised on social media:

Acid cherry gazpacho

Iberic ham croquettes and summer truffle mayo

Savoury gofre, summer vegetables ‘sofrito’, tuna and pine nuts

Black pork fillet, spiced aubergine compote and peppercorns sauce

Beetroot sponge, citric-infused cream cheese, vanilla and cardamom sauce

Petits fours

Es Garum is a five-minute walk from Lloseta’s train station. Several tables were set outside the restaurant but we ate indoors. Sun-starved North European holidaymakers often choose the alfresco option but as we live with the heat all summer long, we sometimes take the opportunity to escape it for a while. Besides, I like to experience the décor and ambience of a restaurant interior.

What’s in the Name?

David named his restaurant after the fermented fish sauce known as garum. This may sound like a trendy newcomer on the gastronomic block, but in fact, was first made by the Greeks and Romans in ancient times and derived from the process of preserving fish. Not surprisingly, a few chefs in Spain are now reigniting interest in this culinary ingredient; David Palomo is one of them.

He’s passionate about the dark, umami-packed liquid and, recognising our interest, spent some time sharing some of his carefully researched knowledge of the subject. He had even made 20 bottles of garum, using salt from Es Trenc in Mallorca and anchovies from the market, for the opening of his restaurant. “I’m very obsessed with flavours,” he told us. In ancient times, he would have been considered a wealthy man with such a bounty of the liquid.

After we’d finished our dinner, David showed us a large jar of garum-in-the-making and a bottle of the finished garum. We were able to taste this liquid on a spoon and realised that a very small amount can pack a delicious umami punch. Umami, known as the fifth taste, is Japanese for ‘essence of deliciousness’. Indeed.

David and his Cuisine

David is originally from the Valencian Community but has travelled extensively. He worked for six years in Scotland (so speaks English – or should that be Scottish? – well) and still visits each year. It was while working later in Menorca (for six years again) that he met his Mallorcan future wife.

His Mediterranean cuisine is a mix of traditional and avant-garde, based on produce that he sources locally. He offers a seasonal à la carte menu that changes four times a year and a monthly changing tasting menu for a good-value 32,50€.

Our tastebuds were awakened by our dinner opener of warm bread rolls with David’s flavoured butter, incorporating seaweed, smoked paprika, and black pepper. When I enquired about the seaweed, he showed us a small tin of different, dried varieties sourced from Scotland, where he has a great friend. Healthy as well as flavourful.

By the end of the evening, we’d not only had a delicious dinner but also learnt about garum and David Palomo’s enthusiasm for developing flavour in his food. We can’t wait to see the August tasting menu. And get back on the train to Lloseta.

Good to Know

• Es Garum has a reasonably priced wine list and although we were travelling on the train, we both wanted different wines, so we each had a generous measure at 5€ a glass.

• During the summer months, Es Garum is open for dinner only (seven days a week) from 18:30h to 22:30h.

• To find out what’s on the current month’s tasting menu or any events happening at Es Garum, follow the restaurant on Instagram.

• To book: call +34 871 80 67 00 or WhatsApp +34 607 05 69 21.

Jan Edwards©2023