Those who have enjoyed eating at Es Racó d’es Teix in Deià over the years will be sad to learn that the restaurant has closed due to the retirement of owner Josef Sauerschell. I have fond memories of reviewing this restaurant for a magazine; some years later, it was the first restaurant my husband and I returned to after the COVID lockdown ended.

But life changes and brings both shade and light. And the light comes from good news out of the renowned 5-star La Residencia hotel. Read on to find out what treats await you in 2023 at this iconic Deià hotel, where the gastronomy is led by executive chef Guillermo Méndez (who has worked at La Residencia – A Belmond Hotel for 32 years!)

Tramuntana Grill

Previously this poolside restaurant was open only to guests staying in the hotel. This year, the Tramuntana Grill is open for dinner to anyone. The restaurant has undergone a gorgeous refurbishment, envisioned by Moredesign. La Resi makes a point of supporting local businesses, eg sourcing fresh produce and artisan tableware, and chose the Deià-based architecture and interior design company for this latest project.

The elegant but unpretentious Tramuntana Grill is a covered but open-sided restaurant, where the designers have chosen local, natural materials, such as iron, bamboo, Mallorcan oak, and the Binissalem stone used to create the attractive floor.

Wherever you sit in the new, elevated Tramuntana Grill you’ll have beautiful views – especially when the setting sun paints the mountains shades of pink or orange.

But what of the food? That’s exciting too: the Tramuntana Grill has a Josper charcoal oven – the piece of equipment that many chefs lust after for the flavour it gives to food. The menu here offers Josper-cooked fresh fish and seafood, meats, vegetables – and even a pineapple dessert that delivers two delicious surprises.

We began our Tramuntana Grill dining experience with a flavourful carpaccio of red prawns, with cream of caramelized red onions, rocket, and pickled lemon peel. A refreshing salad of Josper-grilled watermelon with Mallorcan cottage cheese and confit cherry tomatoes followed. 

We enjoyed a perfectly cooked sea bass with a selection of grilled vegetables, including artichokes and asparagus. Langoustines cooked over charcoal came with the surprising but delicious addition of black pork sobrasada. And when in the Tramuntana – the mountains or the Grill – it would be remiss not to try the succulent Sóller prawns. The veal tartar surprised me: it was served with bone marrow (which would not usually appeal to me) and Beluga caviar – I’d order that again.

Whatever you try from the menu, this is a place for family-style dining so you can experience the variety of flavours and the evident skill of the kitchen team.

There’s live music every night and, when we dined, we enjoyed soft jazz from a Brazilian saxophonist. The music wasn’t intrusive but provided a relaxed ambience that complemented the setting.

The Tramuntana Grill has a wine list of some 50 wines, including local, international, and organic. If you’re driving or not drinking alcohol for another reason, do try the home-made lemonade. I warn you it’s very moreish.

Open to the public for dinner only every night from 19:30-22:30h.

El Olivo

The romantic El Olivo fine-dining restaurant has a new chef at the helm, which has given executive chef Guillermo Méndez more time to supervise all the hotel’s gastronomic offerings. Young but experienced chef Pablo Armando Aranda Moreno donned his chef’s gear at El Olivo in February, in time to create his own menus for the 2023 season.

Pablo hails from Granada but concluded his academic training in gastronomy with a master’s degree from the Basque Culinary Center. He began his career in Andalusia but moved to Mallorca to work for Marc Fosh, Andreu Genestra, and Fernando Pérez Arellano – thereby learning from some well-known chef/patrons.

I haven’t eaten in El Olivo this season but was interested to read his new menus and note that there are designated vegan starters and main-course dishes on the à la carte menu. Pablo also offers two tasting menus – one of which is vegan. Both menus are offered in a choice of 7 or 10 plates and can optionally be paired with wines. If you eat at El Olivo this season, I’d be interested to hear your opinion.

Jan Edwards ©2023