Serious foodies visiting (or living in) Mallorca may want to indulge in a Michelin-starred dining experience – and Mallorca has no fewer than ten restaurants with a Michelin star (and one has two stars). So how do you choose where to splash the cash on an unforgettable meal?

As the Michelin-star restaurants are located in different areas of Mallorca, it probably comes down to how far you’re prepared to travel. In the southwest of the island, the choice is easy: Es Fum restaurant at the St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort in Costa d’en Blanes. If you’re driving, you’ll sweep through the impressive gates to park securely within the property; I do, however, recommend taking a taxi if you can so you can try some of the exceptional wines on offer.

Es Fum’s Chef

Michelin first awarded Es Fum a Michelin star in November 2011 and, despite the change of chef at the helm, has awarded the star annually ever since.

The chef Miguel Navarro has been creating Es Fum’s cuisine since 2017. A Canarian, from La Gomera, he has an impressive CV, with experience in mainly three-Michelin-star restaurants in locations including Italy, Germany, Tenerife, San Sebastián, Bilbao, Girona, and Barcelona. His talents and the influence of Martin Berasategui (for whom he worked for a total of nine years) are evident in his exquisite cuisine. He has a familial link with Mallorca too as his grandmother was born here.

The Dining Room & Terrace at Es Fum

It had been a while since I’d last eaten at Es Fum and when I walked into the restaurant – past a spectacular red painting by the renowned Mallorcan artist and sculptor, Joan Bennàssar – I gasped at the transformation of the dining room.

Neutral colours, light wood, well-spaced tables, and some soft-pink accents in the upholstery of the seating, have given Es Fum a stylish but relaxed contemporary feel and look. The renovation by the London-based HKS Architects and Designers was undertaken in 2022 during the hotel’s 20th anniversary year.

On the spacious dining terrace, you’ll spot some of Bennàssar’s signature-style sculptures. ­This is the place to eat on a balmy summer night, soaking up the long views across the resort’s lawns towards the Mediterranean.

The Tasting Menus

Es Fum offers three tasting menus: Origin, Recorrido, and Vegetal. An à la carte menu is also available, but we were there for the 12-stage Origin (165€). An optional wine pairing for this menu (120€) is available (a good reason to take a taxi).

The knowledgeable sommelier Julianna Gonzalez also has previous Michelin-star restaurant experience in Mallorca and, in 2020, was named Best Sommelier of the Balearic Islands at the Sommeliers’ Spanish Championship, Tierra de Sabor. 

The dishes on the menu include nods to Navarro’s heritage and career, and one, described as MB butter, pays homage to Chef Berasategui, whose restaurants hold a total of 12 stars – more than any other chef in Spain.

Impeccable Service

As soon as we sat down at our table on the terrace, a member of the service team placed a stool next to my chair for my handbag. A glass of champagne was offered (and accepted) from a choice of labels. A very good start.

Service is overseen by maître, Fabio Massacci. The high ratio of servers to diners means a luxurious level of service – but without any stuffiness. Each member of the team who looked after us was pleasant. An explanation of each dish was given.

The Cuisine

Here are photos of some of the dishes we ate on the night. As you can see, the work and detail that goes into the cuisine at Es Fum is impressive. I went into the kitchen after we’d eaten and took photos of the chefs on duty that night. The temperature in the kitchen was high but everyone seemed happy in their work and the ambience suggested Miguel Navarro is a good leader.

Some prestigious talent from the gastronomic world also dined the night we were there. One of America’s best-known chefs, Grant Achatz of Chicago’s 3-Michelin-star restaurant, Alinea, and the Padrón chef brothers from the 2-Michelin-star El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Tenerife had chosen to eat at Es Fum. If it’s good enough for them . . .

Good to Know

Es Fum is open April-October, Wednesday to Sunday, from 19:30h-22:30h.

Details of the tasting menus and optional wine pairings are on http://www.restaurant-esfum.com

Booking ahead is essential.

The St Regis Mardavall’s other restaurant is Terra.

Jan Edwards©2023