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  • Morgan Freeman Ate Italian at Sandro Restaurante, Palma

    Looking for authentic Italian food in Mallorca’s capital, Palma? Then do as the King of Spain and Hollywood ‘royalty’, Morgan Freeman, have done and head for Sandro Restaurante.

    Sandro Restaurante is named after Sandro Putignano, previously the maître d’ at the former Puerto Portals restaurant Tristán, which had two Michelin stars back in the day. Sandro left Tristán after twelve years to open his eponymous restaurant in May 2014. Offering authentic Italian cucina, this natural-light-filled, high-ceilinged restaurant is welcoming and usually busy.

    Four of us went for lunch and were seated at a round table by the window. You don’t come here for the views of the city’s busy traffic though: it’s all about good Italian food and conviviality.

    Sandro’s à la carte menu features the classics of the Italian kitchen. We began with promising, warm focaccia and tasty olives in a home-made dressing and a glass of prosecco. 

    Our friendly English-speaking server told us of three additional dishes available that day. We chose to share one of these – mozzarella ‘knots’ on a bed of rocket and a tomato concassé – and, from the menu of antipasti, the classic melanzane alla parmigiana, (my favourite aubergine dish). I was intrigued by the notion of the cheese dish, imagining an Italian nonna somewhere in her kitchen, painstakingly using her arthritic fingers to tie mozzarella into knots. Slippery, or what?

    The menu has other sections of pasta, classics and risottos, pizzas, fish, meat, and desserts.

    Two of us had different ravioli dishes, one had linguine alla Puttanesca (14,50€), and I had a generous portion of spaghetti ai frutti di mare (19,50€).

    One to Try?

    Strangely, not one of us chose the dish that Morgan Freeman made famous when he ate here while filming in Mallorca in January 2023. The movie star said that the home-made tagliatelle alla Bolognese was ‘the best of my life’ and returned to Sandro to eat it again within days. You’ll find it on the menu alongside a small illustration of the movie star’s face and, despite Mr Freeman’s glowing endorsement, this dish costs only 17,50€.

    Only one of us had room for dessert: a thick slice of pineapple marinated in Amaretto and citrus, caramelized, and served with vanilla ice cream (6€). 

    Wines by the glass were reasonably priced.

    Good to Know

    Gluten-free spaghetti and penne are available on request.

    Open for lunch and dinner, but closed on Tuesdays.

    Sandro Restaurante is very close to the hotel HM Palma Blanc. It’s on the corner of Carrer d’Eivissa and Carrer de Ramon y Cajal.

    The nearest underground car park is in Passeig de Mallorca (also known as Paseo de Mallorca).

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • Palma’s Best-Known Seafood Restaurant: Ca n’Eduardo

    Although Mallorca has a coastline of around 550 kilometres, there are not as many restaurants dedicated mainly to seafood as you’d think. Seafood is, of course, found on many eatery menus but if you’re looking for a renowned restaurant where the culinary focus is on fish and shellfish, I’d recommend Ca n’Eduardo in Palma.

    This restaurant is one of the oldest in Palma, having been in business for 80 years; it’s recognised in Palma’s Emblematic Establishments Catalogue. Since 2008, Ca n’Eduardo has been owned by Johnny Moloney – a Dubliner who bought the place with two business partners. Johnny’s chef experience included working in his native Ireland and the States, and he was head chef at his Palma restaurant until 2018. Today he manages the restaurant, which has a team of Spanish chefs.

    The Place

    Ca n’Eduardo couldn’t be much closer to the sea: it’s right above Palma’s fish auction hall. Its upper-floor location means the views are superb: from the smart dining room – with its contemporary artworks – you can admire the cathedral La Seu, and the fishing boats in the harbour below. Further into the dining room, you can see the chefs at work in the open kitchen. 

    In fine weather, the rear terrace has views including the mountains, the circular Castell Bellver, the monument on top of Na Burguesa, and the Es Baluard rampart. If you’re curious about the five, huge, black cubes suspended from the terrace of Es Baluard, it’s the sculpture ‘Bou’ (which means ‘bull’) by Santiago Calatrava.

    The Food

    One of the four specialities at Ca n’Eduardo is sea bass baked in a salt crust (29€ each for a minimum of two people). This is a surprisingly simple dish to make at home but removing it from its baked salt ‘carapace’ and filleting it to serve can be a messy (and slow) job if you’re not a pro. If you’ve never tried this dish, it’s delicious and surprisingly not salty.  

    Another speciality is grilled lobster with fried egg and chips (33€) – a treat of a dish you’ll find in a few restaurants in Mallorca. 

    There are eight varieties of paella and other rice dishes on Ca n’Eduardo’s menu, although all are for a minimum of two people, from 20€ a person.

    We Ate

    To begin our lunch, we shared crispy shrimps (a portion of six) with a honey and mustard sauce, fried calamari, and crystal bread. Our main course dishes were sea bass and supreme of hake – both of which came with half a baked potato and a side salad. 

    Two desserts are noteworthy here: dark chocolate coulant and apple tart with vanilla ice cream – each of these two takes 20 minutes to cook, allowing you more time to enjoy the view. 

    Good to Know

    Ca n’Eduardo is open from 13:00h until 22:00h so if you’re having a shopping or sightseeing day in Palma, you don’t have to stress about eating lunch before the restaurant closes.

    Outside Palma, just a couple of places where I’ve also eaten delicious fish: Ses Coves (Campanet) and at Sa Punta (Sa Coma) – the restaurant owned by tennis supremo Rafa Nadal’s uncle.

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • El Camino is a Must-Visit for Tapas in Palma

    If you’ve eaten in London at the Spanish restaurants Fino and Barrafina, I think you’ll enjoy El Camino in Palma. The owner of this smart tapas restaurant in Mallorca’s capital is Eddie Hart, one of the brothers behind those successful London restaurants.

    Eddie spent many childhood and teenage summer holidays at his family’s second home here on the island. Who can blame him for moving from London to the slower-paced life of beautiful Mallorca? It seemed a brave move for an Englishman to open a tapas restaurant in Palma but Eddie’s stylish eatery has become one of the must-go places in a city that’s not short of good restaurants. We’ve eaten here countless times and I really don’t know why I haven’t blogged about it before (although El Camino has been my Restaurant of the Week on Mallorca Sunshine Radio).

    El Camino is a few steps away from the Passeig des Born, where you’ll find stores like Zara, Massimo Dutti, and Louis Vuitton. Take the pedestrianised lane Carrer de Can Brando to find El Camino. Depending on the time of day, people may be waiting outside for vacant seats at the marble-topped oak counter. It’s worth the wait.

    The Place

    El Camino’s visual appeal is obvious. The attractive, elegant décor is the work of interior designer Elsa Olivera of Elsa O Studio. The warm lighting and use of mirrors make clever use of the narrow space. I like the thoughtful touch of adding hooks under the counter so you can hang a bag or your jacket while you’re seated.

    This is mainly a sit-at-the-counter tapas restaurant, where you’re on a comfortable high chair with a ‘ringside’ seat of the culinary action. El Camino is gastronomic theatre: the players are those cooking, plating, and serving behind the counter, while we are the audience watching what looks like a choreographed performance of the friendly El Camino team members as they go about their work, and enjoying the delicious results. An encore is often necessary as the menu has so many tempting choices!

    The Food & Wine

    The menu is printed on paper placemats on the countertop and a separate list shows the day’s specials. The Mediterranean cuisine is made from carefully sourced produce. This is a place to share dishes – the more the merrier (go hungry). On our last visit, we ate pimientos de Padrón, salt cod fritters (yum!), ceviche, queen scallops – probably my favourite dish there – and succulent, meaty lamb chops from Burgos.

    After The Boss and I had eaten all that food, dessert didn’t seem possible. But we did manage to share the small dish of hazelnut and chocolate spheres as an accompaniment to coffee, which was perfect to end lunch at El Camino.

    Wines are Spanish and some special ones from Mallorca. There’s one for all tastes and budgets here, including Vega Sicilia at the top end of the price range. Only the top-end wines are not available by the glass. I enjoyed the freshness of the Friki Verdejo and Mallorcan winery Oliver Moragues’s delicious red, El Galgo.

    Good to Know

    El Camino is open daily (except Sundays and Mondays), 13:00h-16:00h & 18:00h-22:45h

    Are you on Instagram? So are El Camino and eatdrinksleepmallorca.

    You can now book for El Camino up to three months in advance here.

    To subscribe to this blog, hit the + sign in the top-left-hand corner of this post and you’ll see the subscribe request. You’ll receive a new post every week.

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • Review of Mallorca’s Shine Spa by Sheraton

    The outdoor pool at the Sheraton Mallorca Arabella Golf Hotel

    The Sheraton Mallorca Arabella Golf Hotel is set on the verdant, hillside area of Mallorca known as Son Vida. It overlooks the island’s capital and the Bay of Palma beyond and has been described as the Beverley Hills of Mallorca because of its allure for the wealthy.

    Here’s where you’ll find architect-designed villas with sumptuous gardens, all enjoying breathtaking views and privacy. The owners of these properties have fairly easy access to a highway all the way to Palma Airport, which has a thriving private jet base.

    Hotel Overview

    Son Vida is also home to golf courses and two luxury, 5-star* places to stay: Castillo Hotel Son Vida and the Sheraton Mallorca Arabella Golf Hotel. The latter is a true resort hotel, with 93 rooms and suites, lush gardens, a large outdoor swimming pool, a family pool, two new tennis courts, the new Arabella Kids & Tweens Club, Fitness Pavilion with Technogym equipment, and the Shine Spa.

    Son Vida Golf – a mere club swing away from the Sheraton’s restaurant terrace – was the first golf club to open in Mallorca. Close by are the 18-hole Son Quint and Son Muntaner courses, making the Sheraton Mallorca Arabella Golf Hotel a golfer’s paradise.

    Golf is not my bag but you can sign me up for a spa anytime. And the Sheraton Mallorca is home to the well-managed Shine Spa by Sheraton, where I spent the day last Wednesday.

    The Wet Facilities at Shine Spa

    This spacious, modern, and natural light-filled spa has a large, heated indoor pool, whirlpool, steam room, sauna, showers (including overhead ice tub), and plenty of loungers and chairs in the pool area. Spa users have the use of a locker, in which a bathrobe, slippers, and a towel are provided. There’s no shortage of fresh towels around the pool area should you need more.

    A water dispenser with reusable glasses will help you keep hydrated but if you want other drinks, these can be arranged by the spa reception team. Incidentally, I found the whole spa team to be helpful and friendly.

    Treatments at the Shine Spa

    Shine Spa has four individual and one couple’s treatment rooms. In addition, a spacious Thai massage room has opened where the hotel’s golf shop used to be.

    The treatment list includes eight facials, 11 massages (including reflexology and reiki), and six body treatments. Also on offer are packages, mani- and pedi treatments, waxing, and make-up.

    The treatments at Shine Spa are based on products by Germaine de Capuccini – a company established in 1964 and known for its innovation in skincare technology. A range of these products is available for sale in the spa.

    I had a facial from the Mallorcan therapist, Olimpia, whose hands felt as though they were working magic on my skin. It truly was the most relaxing facial I’ve had, enhanced by lying on a heated treatment bed. Bliss.

    I floated back to my lounger for some more relaxation by the pool, then showered and changed to have some late afternoon tapas and a glass of wine in the hotel’s restaurant, La Bodega del Green. It wasn’t warm enough to sit outside on the large terrace that day but it looks an appealing place to eat when the weather allows.

    I left Shine Spa by Sheraton glowing and renewed. And those are just how a spa day should make you feel.

    Offers for Local Residents

    Residents of the Balearics can enjoy a choice of special deals at this hotel. Click here.

    You can become a member of the Shine Spa & Gym: Four durations of subscriptions are available, starting at 115€ per person per month. In the changing room, I got chatting to an American who lives near the hotel and told me she uses the spa almost daily with her subscription.

    Good to Know

    Shine Spa is open from 08:00h to 20:00h; treatments are available from 10:00h. Children are not allowed in after 18:00h.

    La Bodega del Green is open from 12:00h to 22:00h. As well as the different lunch and dinner menus (the latter offered from 18:00h), there are tapas and a separate gluten-free menu.

    Free parking is available in one of the bays just outside the hotel gates.

    See the website here.

    Mallorca now has 65 hotels with 5 stars, with more to open in 2024.

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • What’s New at Finca Can Beneït – 2024

    For the third year running, we spent our wedding anniversary (coinciding with Valentine’s Day) at Mallorca’s hideaway, rural 5-star hotel, Finca Can Beneït. This was our fourth visit in total to this beautiful property in the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Serra de Tramuntana, and each time we’ve found enhancements to the guest experience.

    The Arrival

    The first enhancement we noticed this year was the installation of a gate at the entrance to the finca. Press the button and the gate slides open and by the time you’ve parked your car, a member of the hotel staff has arrived to carry your luggage and escort you to the hotel reception desk. This makes the welcome feel even warmer – especially for first-time visitors.

    The Mirabona Restaurant Terrace

    Our stay began with a glass of cava on the terrace (February has been very mild in Mallorca this year). The dining area of the terrace has a new covering for shade, discreet (but effective) heaters for the cooler months, and attractive wooden overhead fans for the summer. We also spotted some new tableware at breakfast time.

    The Toiletries

    This year the toiletries in guest rooms have been upgraded to Barcelona’s Natura Bissé brand – it’s a delicious treat to use these luxurious products.

    The Panorama Suite

    The most impressive enhancement at Finca Can Beneït is the appropriately named Panorama Suite. On the upper floor, this totally renovated suite looks over the swimming pool and has dreamy views of the mountains against which the hamlet of Binibona is nestled.

    The bedroom has new glazed doors onto the huge terrace, with two outdoor armchairs and two loungers. I could probably spend a week there just admiring the view and watching the plants grow on the newly planted roof garden in front of the suite.

    The suite measures 80sqm, with a lounge area, large bathroom (with bath and shower), and separate bedroom. A Velux roof window was installed during the renovation, providing natural light over the desk in the lounge area. What a space to write in! A telescope is thoughtfully provided for spectacular views of the unpolluted night skies here.

    We didn’t stay in the Panorama Suite but owner Toni Duran gave us a tour of the upgraded suite. My verdict? It’s gorgeous. Finca Can Beneït’s Panorama Suite would be a dreamy place to stay on a honeymoon.

    Complimentary Activities

    The following complimentary guest activities continue at Finca Can Beneït:

    Wine tasting on a Wednesday evening with English sommelier, Amy Dunn. Amy is an engaging speaker and has an infectious enthusiasm for wines – as well as impressive knowledge. For interesting information about wines, you can follow Amy’s Instagram account tastingwithamy.

    Finca Can Beneït has two e-bikes and four touring bikes for guest use. There are some pretty country lanes around for cycling.

    Complimentary yoga classes take place three times a week.

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • Lunch in the Campanet Countryside: Ses Coves

    Ses Coves seen from the car park

    Several times last summer I tried to book a table for dinner at Ses Coves in the Campanet countryside. I’d read and heard a lot about the place so it was no surprise that it was always full when I tried to make a reservation. The answer? Eat out of season – which we did recently, booking our lunch only the day before we wanted to go.

    Ses Coves – as the name suggests – is adjacent to the Caves of Campanet at the foot of the Puig Sant Miquel, overlooking a picturesque valley with extensive views. The location is fantastic but the main reason for the popularity of Ses Coves restaurant is its reputation for carefully sourced, high-quality meat and fish. And it’s all expertly cooked over the embers of an almond-wood fire in an open kitchen at the rear of the restaurant by chef Josep Joan Segura (his friends call him ‘Jota’ – the Spanish word for the letter ‘J’) who owns both businesses with his wife Paloma. Sustainability is a guiding principle for the couple, who source the wood and some of the produce they use from their land.

    Quite a few stone steps take you from the car park up to the restaurant and the cave entrance. My delight at finally arriving here was enhanced by the sight of the finca’s two beautiful cats.

    Before you reach the restaurant entrance, there’s a small terrace where visitors to the caves can enjoy a refreshment from the inevitable shop. On the other side of the restaurant is the large terrace with gorgeous views, where dinner is served during the warmer months.

    The same views are available from the dining room, which seats around 30 people. The tables have linen cloths and napkins, and rustic-looking ceramics made by the über-talented Mallorcan chef and artist, Santi Taura (who, like several chefs from the island, likes to eat here). Motown tunes played in the background at a level that didn’t hinder conversation.

    Ses Coves’s website does not show the menu – although there are tempting photos – so I should warn you that the high quality of the produce used here comes at a commensurate price. You can’t easily see what you’ll spend on a meat or fish dish because the prices are shown on the menu by weight (by 100g for fish and by the kilo for meat). The drinks, starters, and desserts are not expensive for the quality of the place, but main course prices may surprise you.

    Let me say that the quality of the meat and fish and the expert grilling over the embers of an almond wood fire result in a memorable foodie experience. Keen carnivores will appreciate the dry-aged Galician beef chops from Cárnicas LyO, a company that supplies meat to some of Spain’s top restaurants. You’ll probably pay upwards of 98€ per kilo, depending on your choice of meat.

    What We Ate at Ses Coves

    We started our lunch with good, warm bread – from a bakery in nearby Búger – with delicious smoked butter (EVOO was also an option).

    From the eight shareable starters (three of which featured Mallorcan red prawns), we shared a tasty dish of mixed mushrooms, charcoal-grilled aubergine, grilled pork belly, and Joselito jowl (24,10€).

    We weren’t quite hungry enough for a large beef chop, but prefer fish anyway. The Boss ordered yellow grouper from Mallorca (9€ per 100g). I had ‘virrey’ – a deep-water fish from Galicia (16€ per 100g). Both were cooked to perfection and enjoyed with a shared, heaping plate of French fries (9,50€). 

    We ended with almond ice cream and, for me, a delicious almond coulant with a perfect oozing centre that I’d love to recreate at home.

    The wine list has a good choice of Mallorcan, national, and international wines at a broad range of prices, with some by the glass. We paid 5€ for a generous glass of Sincronia from Mesquida Mora, and 4,70€ for the young wine, Eloi, from Toni Gelabert. 

    Verdict

    A memorable and delicious lunch in a beautiful location, at a cost that exceeded our usual eating-out budget. For us, this means our next visit will be for a special occasion. And will be booked well in advance.

    Good to Know

    Ses Coves has a Solete in the Guía Repsol.

    Opening hours are currently Wednesday to Saturday from 1pm to 3.30pm. In summer, Ses Coves opens for dinner only from Tuesday to Saturday from 7.30pm.

    The fascinating caves were discovered by accident in 1945, and are worth a visit. The old steps within can be slippery so appropriate footwear is recommended.

    If you book online, the Ses Coves reservation form will request your card details, as protection against a possible ‘no show’. This requirement is becoming more common in Mallorca but money is not taken at the time of booking.

    Jan Edwards @2024

  • Nº11 is Number One in Port d’Andratx

    I’ve occasionally been asked for a restaurant recommendation in Port d’Andratx, in the southwest of Mallorca. Until recently, I wasn’t aware of any stand-out places to eat there – despite plenty of eateries. This is partly because we live north of Manacor, so I always want to be sure that any restaurant at a distance will be worth the time and the fuel cost to get there.

    Well, I now have a great recommendation for an eatery in charming Port d’Andratx: it’s called Nº11. We visited on a day when we had an appointment in Palma Nova, so it was only another 20km drive to the fishing port we hadn’t visited for several years.

    The Place

    The gastrobar Nº11 – opened in 2021 – is in the premises formerly occupied by Romeo’s. It has a corner position with a terrace area at the front, a first-floor lounge, and a rooftop terrace with extensive views of the bay and surrounding hills. We sat in the covered area of the terrace, which has heaters for the winter months.

    Englishman Daniel Verrier is at the helm of Nº11. Although his previous career was in TV commercial production, hospitality is in his genes: until last October, his parents owned the Port d’Andratx Italian restaurant Verico (which I admit I didn’t try and should have).

    Family man Daniel moved from London to Mallorca for a better quality of life and seems to be in his element at Nº11, where he has a small, friendly team managed by an outgoing Ecuadorian, also called Daniel.

    The Culinary Concept

    Here is where Nº11 stands head and shoulders above other eateries in Port d’Andratx. The menu was created by the renowned Singapore-born, Australia-raised chef Bonnie Han – best known for the Southeast Asian restaurant Nama in Deià. The influential chef Bonnie has also worked her culinary magic on the menus at Koh and Canela in Palma and created a unique menu for Nº11 with influences from Asia and Europe. Nº11’s two chefs produce these dishes in a surprisingly small kitchen where there’s barely room to swing a spatula.

    The Menu

    The menu is sectioned into: Bites, Small Plates, Bigger Plates, Sides, and Desserts. This is the perfect place to share several dishes – which is just as well as everything sounds tempting. Three of us were at the table that day, so we were able to try more dishes than we’d have had as a couple.

    Here’s what we ate:

    My favourite dishes? The sepia (cuttlefish) and sobrasada (not pictured due to my techie hitch!), which was a revelation; hoisin duck rolls (packed with duck and flavour), and the crowd-pleasing Massaman lamb shank pie (I do love a bit of puff pastry). The side-order potatoes were unlike any I’d had before – a definite must. The chocolate cake is surely the food of the gods – not that I had more than a spoonful. Remember the famous line from Friends, ‘Joey doesn’t share.’? When it comes to chocolate cake, neither does my husband. My pal and I just weren’t quick enough with our spoons.

    The Drinks

    Mixologist Andres is from Argentina and is so passionate about his work that he even has a tattoo of a cocktail glass on his neck. Cocktails are THE thing here, although there’s also a good choice of wines, including ten from the Nº11 Cellar that will appeal to serious wine enthusiasts. Because I was driving, Andres offered to surprise me with a non-alcoholic cocktail, a Gin Basil Smash made with alcohol-free gin (left). It was refreshing and delicious. As was the second one.

    Choose from Andres’s signature or classic cocktails or the fun option of Cocktail Roulette.

    Verdict

    Looking to eat in southwest Mallorca (or just sip a creative cocktail and soak up some gorgeous Mediterranean views)? With its great location, welcoming team, fun vibes, exciting cocktails, and most of all, delicious, different food, Nº11 has become my number one spot to recommend in Port d’Andratx.

    Good to Know

    The roof terrace – perfect for those awesome sunset shots – and first-floor lounge are also bookable for private events.

    Follow Nº11 here on Instagram

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • A Port de Pollença Favourite: Stay Restaurant

    Looking for a restaurant in Mallorca that’s open all year – and is right by the Mediterranean? Stay Restaurant in Port de Pollença fits the bill. This restaurant has been a magnet for visitors and locals since 1972, although it looks different today thanks to a major renovation in 2006. Eighteen years on, it still looks contemporary.

    I couldn’t tell you how many times we’ve eaten at Stay over the past twenty years. We’ve been with family, friends, and on our own. And we’ve never had a bad experience. We usually visit out of the peak season, when it’s easier to secure a table on the large terrace. Awnings provide shade when needed and overhead heaters provide some warmth on those days when required. Views of the Bay of Pollença and the Serra de Tramuntana mountains beyond the resort add to the enjoyment of a table on the terrace.

    Indoors you’ll find a smart and large, modern dining room, with floor-to-ceiling windows for those views.

    Stay Restaurant is open most of the day and has different menus depending on the time of day. We’ve been for coffee in the mornings and tapas and a glass of something in the afternoons, but it’s the set menu we draws us there most.

    This menu changes every week and is offered at lunchtime and for dinner. There’s a choice of four starters, three main courses, and a dessert. The meal begins with a complimentary appetizer, bread roll, and extra virgin olive oil. Also included is a carafe of still or sparkling water, a bottle of red, white, or rosé wine (per two people), coffee, and a silky home-made chocolate. All of this for just 39,50€ per person. The price has risen by only 2€ since 2019.

    What We Ate

    Our complimentary appetizer was a shot glass of pumpkin soup topped with coconut foam.

    From the four starters, I chose Indonesian prawns and vegetable satay. The Boss had beef carpaccio with tempura mushrooms and pesto vinaigrette.

    From the three main courses, we chose Mallorcan-style rabbit with onions, vegetables, and potatoes, and sliced, sautéed beef with mushrooms, crème fraîche, and baked potatoes. Quite a bit of tempura can be spotted on dishes here on this mainly Mediterranean menu.

    Desserts are made on the premises, rather than bought in (another point in Stay’s favour), and ours was a moreish coffee parfait with red fruits.

    The service is reliably efficient – perhaps because most of the waiting staff members have worked here for several years.

    Good to Know

    Vegans and children have the benefit of their own menus at Stay Restaurant, and you’ll find all the menus on the Stay website here.

    Stay Restaurant has a special Valentine’s Dinner Menu of four courses plus appetizer, coffee and home-made chocolate, and wine, for 60€.

    GPS N 39º54’14”
           E 03º04’58”

    Jan Edwards©2024

     

     

  • Where to Eat in Felanitx – Estragon La Plaça

    When we first bought our rural Mallorca property in 2002, our finca’s previous owners helpfully left us a list of their favourite local eateries. Some of the restaurants on the list no longer exist but one we used to visit often is back in business – albeit with different owners, interior, and food concept.

    That restaurant is Estragon La Plaça in Felanitx. When we used to eat there, Anna and her husband, who was the chef, owned and ran it. They were there for more than 15 years until they sold the place.

    Current Owners Since November 2023

    Since the beginning of November 2023, Felix Passow and his wife Vivien have owned Estragon La Plaça, having moved from near Berlin to Mallorca to take over this restaurant in a quiet corner of Felanitx. I saw a friend’s enthusiastic Instagram post after eating there and made a reservation.

    We never had a problem parking at Estragon and found a space just steps from the front door. A few terrace tables are at the front for warmer months. Inside, we spent several minutes admiring the change to a more modern décor since our last visit. Large artworks hang on the wall – and are for sale, if you see one you fancy and have enough wall space at home. A novel and eye-catching way of storing wine bottles above the bar is a talking point. The restaurant felt comfortable and welcoming, with background music that wasn’t intrusive.

    The Food at Estragon

    Once we’d settled at our table near one of the windows at the front, one of the two young female servers brought over a blackboard menu. The choice of dishes is just enough to know that everything is made on the premises. Felix told us that there are small changes to the menu every three to four days. He’s very hands-on and told us he loves his new role in hospitality.

    The German chef René Neuber worked here with the restaurant’s previous owners (another German couple who had the place for less than a year). René has been on the island for twenty years so has well-established relationships with his food suppliers.

    What We Ate

    Dinner at the ‘new’ Estragon got off to a great start with its delicious sourdough bread, supplied by a baker in Campos. With a good crumb and crust, this moreish bread was served warm.

    We shared a starter of beetroot, pear, walnuts, and gently baked goat’s cheese – delicious! (16€). From the seven main course dishes, we had fillet of corvina (croaker) with a quinoa and mushroom risotto (29€), and tender, slow-cooked Iberian pork cheeks with a delightfully smooth sweet potato purée, tomatoes, and courgettes (25€). All four desserts were 7€ each and we chose a silky mango panna cotta and an apple cake.

    The wine card has a good choice of Mallorcan wines – including several from the Felanitx area. A separate page offers a good choice for those who prefer natural wines. And for those who are driving, there’s the rarity of an alcohol-free rosado on the list (we’ll try it next time).

    Our dinner ended with a complimentary chupito (shot) of a drink made by Felix’s wife Vivien from apples and cinnamon. It arrived in a small bottle with two small glasses. If it were for sale, I’d have bought a bottle.

    Special mention should be made of the service. When we dined there, two young servers – amusingly with the rhyming names Veronica and Monica – displayed their impressive people and service skills, ensuring that we’ll return to dine again in Felanitx at Estragon La Plaça.

    Good to Know

    Estragon La Plaça is open for dinner only from 18:00h-23:00h (but closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays). It’s a useful place to know about because many restaurants in the area close on Mondays.

    The restaurant is located next to the Parc Municipal de Sa Torre.

    The restaurant’s website has not yet been updated to reflect the new ownership but you can follow their Instagram page here.

    https://maps.app.goo.gl/rGuxP4aaE62f66TG7

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • A Taste of Paris in Palma

    A few tables outside Les Artistes on the pavement

    Who needs a trip to Paris for a taste of French cuisine? If travelling to France isn’t on the cards for you but the prospect of an authentic French onion soup or a hearty boeuf bourguignon appeals, head to Les Artistes, a cosy French bistro in the heart of Palma, Mallorca’s capital. By the time you’ve perused the menu and taken the first sip of your French beer or Château Bertinerie, you’ll almost believe you were in the ‘city of light’.

    The décor helps to achieve this feeling. Think of a French bistro you’ve seen in a movie and you’ll find similar features here, such as red-and-white checked tablecloths and napkins, and framed French art posters and photographs on the walls.

    But the most notable authenticity relates to the food – classic savoury and sweet dishes from the French culinary canon.

    What’s on the menu at Les Artistes?

    The winter menu has starters including snails from Burgundy, sausage from Lyon, and the ever-popular onion soup with grilled Emmental and French bread. Main courses include boeuf bourguignon (made over three days and from three cuts of beef) served in a Le Creuset pot (18,90€), confit of duck (19,50€), hanger steak (‘onglet de boeuf’ (18,70€), and pike quenelle with a sauce of Norwegian lobster and shrimp bisque, and pilaf rice (17,30€). A few vegetarian dishes are available – including a vegetarian main course.

    Leave space for a dessert if you can. Anyone for profiteroles bathed in warm chocolate and Chantilly cream (7,90€)? Apple tarte tatin (7,80€), crépes Suzette (8,90€), and îles flottantes (6,50€) are other classic French puds. If you lack a sweet tooth, don’t miss the assortment of French cheeses with fig jam (8,50€).

    Our lunch at Les Artistes

    For our lunch we started with a marinated fillet of herring with potatoes, onions, and carrots (7,20€), and fried Camembert with salad and fig jam (7,80€) which was accompanied by slices of toasted baguette to mop up all the delicious oozing cheese. Both starters were generous in size and very tasty. 

    The Boss’s main course was pike ‘quenelle de brochet avec sauce Nantua’ – a typical dish from Lyon and the perfect winter warmer with its rich sauce and puff pastry garnish (17,30€). A friend had recommended the beef dish, ‘onglet de boeuf, sauce aux échalots’ and although I eat little red meat, I chose this dish with its oven-baked new potatoes and shallot sauce (18,70€). Our waitress asked me how I’d like the hanger steak cooked and the tender meat arrived just as requested. It was delicious.

    Our desserts were tarte tatin and crème brûlée with pistachios (7,50€). 

    Good to Know

    Wines are French and reasonably priced too. We had wine by the glass at 4€ each.

    For a restaurant in the heart of Palma, prices at Les Artistes are attractive. And service is friendly and efficient, with the serving staff dressed in jaunty flat caps and aprons.

    Les Artistes is in the heart of Palma, right opposite the access to the underground car park at Mercat de l’Olivar. The nearby department store El Corté Inglés on the Avenidas has an underground car park too so you could park there and combine a shopping trip with lunch (or dinner) at Les Artistes in Palma.

    Les Artistes is popular so be sure to book your table in advance. 

    Jan Edwards©2024