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  • Nº11 is Number One in Port d’Andratx

    I’ve occasionally been asked for a restaurant recommendation in Port d’Andratx, in the southwest of Mallorca. Until recently, I wasn’t aware of any stand-out places to eat there – despite plenty of eateries. This is partly because we live north of Manacor, so I always want to be sure that any restaurant at a distance will be worth the time and the fuel cost to get there.

    Well, I now have a great recommendation for an eatery in charming Port d’Andratx: it’s called Nº11. We visited on a day when we had an appointment in Palma Nova, so it was only another 20km drive to the fishing port we hadn’t visited for several years.

    The Place

    The gastrobar Nº11 – opened in 2021 – is in the premises formerly occupied by Romeo’s. It has a corner position with a terrace area at the front, a first-floor lounge, and a rooftop terrace with extensive views of the bay and surrounding hills. We sat in the covered area of the terrace, which has heaters for the winter months.

    Englishman Daniel Verrier is at the helm of Nº11. Although his previous career was in TV commercial production, hospitality is in his genes: until last October, his parents owned the Port d’Andratx Italian restaurant Verico (which I admit I didn’t try and should have).

    Family man Daniel moved from London to Mallorca for a better quality of life and seems to be in his element at Nº11, where he has a small, friendly team managed by an outgoing Ecuadorian, also called Daniel.

    The Culinary Concept

    Here is where Nº11 stands head and shoulders above other eateries in Port d’Andratx. The menu was created by the renowned Singapore-born, Australia-raised chef Bonnie Han – best known for the Southeast Asian restaurant Nama in Deià. The influential chef Bonnie has also worked her culinary magic on the menus at Koh and Canela in Palma and created a unique menu for Nº11 with influences from Asia and Europe. Nº11’s two chefs produce these dishes in a surprisingly small kitchen where there’s barely room to swing a spatula.

    The Menu

    The menu is sectioned into: Bites, Small Plates, Bigger Plates, Sides, and Desserts. This is the perfect place to share several dishes – which is just as well as everything sounds tempting. Three of us were at the table that day, so we were able to try more dishes than we’d have had as a couple.

    Here’s what we ate:

    My favourite dishes? The sepia (cuttlefish) and sobrasada (not pictured due to my techie hitch!), which was a revelation; hoisin duck rolls (packed with duck and flavour), and the crowd-pleasing Massaman lamb shank pie (I do love a bit of puff pastry). The side-order potatoes were unlike any I’d had before – a definite must. The chocolate cake is surely the food of the gods – not that I had more than a spoonful. Remember the famous line from Friends, ‘Joey doesn’t share.’? When it comes to chocolate cake, neither does my husband. My pal and I just weren’t quick enough with our spoons.

    The Drinks

    Mixologist Andres is from Argentina and is so passionate about his work that he even has a tattoo of a cocktail glass on his neck. Cocktails are THE thing here, although there’s also a good choice of wines, including ten from the Nº11 Cellar that will appeal to serious wine enthusiasts. Because I was driving, Andres offered to surprise me with a non-alcoholic cocktail, a Gin Basil Smash made with alcohol-free gin (left). It was refreshing and delicious. As was the second one.

    Choose from Andres’s signature or classic cocktails or the fun option of Cocktail Roulette.

    Verdict

    Looking to eat in southwest Mallorca (or just sip a creative cocktail and soak up some gorgeous Mediterranean views)? With its great location, welcoming team, fun vibes, exciting cocktails, and most of all, delicious, different food, Nº11 has become my number one spot to recommend in Port d’Andratx.

    Good to Know

    The roof terrace – perfect for those awesome sunset shots – and first-floor lounge are also bookable for private events.

    Follow Nº11 here on Instagram

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • A Port de Pollença Favourite: Stay Restaurant

    Looking for a restaurant in Mallorca that’s open all year – and is right by the Mediterranean? Stay Restaurant in Port de Pollença fits the bill. This restaurant has been a magnet for visitors and locals since 1972, although it looks different today thanks to a major renovation in 2006. Eighteen years on, it still looks contemporary.

    I couldn’t tell you how many times we’ve eaten at Stay over the past twenty years. We’ve been with family, friends, and on our own. And we’ve never had a bad experience. We usually visit out of the peak season, when it’s easier to secure a table on the large terrace. Awnings provide shade when needed and overhead heaters provide some warmth on those days when required. Views of the Bay of Pollença and the Serra de Tramuntana mountains beyond the resort add to the enjoyment of a table on the terrace.

    Indoors you’ll find a smart and large, modern dining room, with floor-to-ceiling windows for those views.

    Stay Restaurant is open most of the day and has different menus depending on the time of day. We’ve been for coffee in the mornings and tapas and a glass of something in the afternoons, but it’s the set menu we draws us there most.

    This menu changes every week and is offered at lunchtime and for dinner. There’s a choice of four starters, three main courses, and a dessert. The meal begins with a complimentary appetizer, bread roll, and extra virgin olive oil. Also included is a carafe of still or sparkling water, a bottle of red, white, or rosé wine (per two people), coffee, and a silky home-made chocolate. All of this for just 39,50€ per person. The price has risen by only 2€ since 2019.

    What We Ate

    Our complimentary appetizer was a shot glass of pumpkin soup topped with coconut foam.

    From the four starters, I chose Indonesian prawns and vegetable satay. The Boss had beef carpaccio with tempura mushrooms and pesto vinaigrette.

    From the three main courses, we chose Mallorcan-style rabbit with onions, vegetables, and potatoes, and sliced, sautéed beef with mushrooms, crème fraîche, and baked potatoes. Quite a bit of tempura can be spotted on dishes here on this mainly Mediterranean menu.

    Desserts are made on the premises, rather than bought in (another point in Stay’s favour), and ours was a moreish coffee parfait with red fruits.

    The service is reliably efficient – perhaps because most of the waiting staff members have worked here for several years.

    Good to Know

    Vegans and children have the benefit of their own menus at Stay Restaurant, and you’ll find all the menus on the Stay website here.

    Stay Restaurant has a special Valentine’s Dinner Menu of four courses plus appetizer, coffee and home-made chocolate, and wine, for 60€.

    GPS N 39º54’14”
           E 03º04’58”

    Jan Edwards©2024

     

     

  • Where to Eat in Felanitx – Estragon La Plaça

    When we first bought our rural Mallorca property in 2002, our finca’s previous owners helpfully left us a list of their favourite local eateries. Some of the restaurants on the list no longer exist but one we used to visit often is back in business – albeit with different owners, interior, and food concept.

    That restaurant is Estragon La Plaça in Felanitx. When we used to eat there, Anna and her husband, who was the chef, owned and ran it. They were there for more than 15 years until they sold the place.

    Current Owners Since November 2023

    Since the beginning of November 2023, Felix Passow and his wife Vivien have owned Estragon La Plaça, having moved from near Berlin to Mallorca to take over this restaurant in a quiet corner of Felanitx. I saw a friend’s enthusiastic Instagram post after eating there and made a reservation.

    We never had a problem parking at Estragon and found a space just steps from the front door. A few terrace tables are at the front for warmer months. Inside, we spent several minutes admiring the change to a more modern décor since our last visit. Large artworks hang on the wall – and are for sale, if you see one you fancy and have enough wall space at home. A novel and eye-catching way of storing wine bottles above the bar is a talking point. The restaurant felt comfortable and welcoming, with background music that wasn’t intrusive.

    The Food at Estragon

    Once we’d settled at our table near one of the windows at the front, one of the two young female servers brought over a blackboard menu. The choice of dishes is just enough to know that everything is made on the premises. Felix told us that there are small changes to the menu every three to four days. He’s very hands-on and told us he loves his new role in hospitality.

    The German chef René Neuber worked here with the restaurant’s previous owners (another German couple who had the place for less than a year). René has been on the island for twenty years so has well-established relationships with his food suppliers.

    What We Ate

    Dinner at the ‘new’ Estragon got off to a great start with its delicious sourdough bread, supplied by a baker in Campos. With a good crumb and crust, this moreish bread was served warm.

    We shared a starter of beetroot, pear, walnuts, and gently baked goat’s cheese – delicious! (16€). From the seven main course dishes, we had fillet of corvina (croaker) with a quinoa and mushroom risotto (29€), and tender, slow-cooked Iberian pork cheeks with a delightfully smooth sweet potato purée, tomatoes, and courgettes (25€). All four desserts were 7€ each and we chose a silky mango panna cotta and an apple cake.

    The wine card has a good choice of Mallorcan wines – including several from the Felanitx area. A separate page offers a good choice for those who prefer natural wines. And for those who are driving, there’s the rarity of an alcohol-free rosado on the list (we’ll try it next time).

    Our dinner ended with a complimentary chupito (shot) of a drink made by Felix’s wife Vivien from apples and cinnamon. It arrived in a small bottle with two small glasses. If it were for sale, I’d have bought a bottle.

    Special mention should be made of the service. When we dined there, two young servers – amusingly with the rhyming names Veronica and Monica – displayed their impressive people and service skills, ensuring that we’ll return to dine again in Felanitx at Estragon La Plaça.

    Good to Know

    Estragon La Plaça is open for dinner only from 18:00h-23:00h (but closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays). It’s a useful place to know about because many restaurants in the area close on Mondays.

    The restaurant is located next to the Parc Municipal de Sa Torre.

    The restaurant’s website has not yet been updated to reflect the new ownership but you can follow their Instagram page here.

    https://maps.app.goo.gl/rGuxP4aaE62f66TG7

    Jan Edwards ©2024

  • A Taste of Paris in Palma

    A few tables outside Les Artistes on the pavement

    Who needs a trip to Paris for a taste of French cuisine? If travelling to France isn’t on the cards for you but the prospect of an authentic French onion soup or a hearty boeuf bourguignon appeals, head to Les Artistes, a cosy French bistro in the heart of Palma, Mallorca’s capital. By the time you’ve perused the menu and taken the first sip of your French beer or Château Bertinerie, you’ll almost believe you were in the ‘city of light’.

    The décor helps to achieve this feeling. Think of a French bistro you’ve seen in a movie and you’ll find similar features here, such as red-and-white checked tablecloths and napkins, and framed French art posters and photographs on the walls.

    But the most notable authenticity relates to the food – classic savoury and sweet dishes from the French culinary canon.

    What’s on the menu at Les Artistes?

    The winter menu has starters including snails from Burgundy, sausage from Lyon, and the ever-popular onion soup with grilled Emmental and French bread. Main courses include boeuf bourguignon (made over three days and from three cuts of beef) served in a Le Creuset pot (18,90€), confit of duck (19,50€), hanger steak (‘onglet de boeuf’ (18,70€), and pike quenelle with a sauce of Norwegian lobster and shrimp bisque, and pilaf rice (17,30€). A few vegetarian dishes are available – including a vegetarian main course.

    Leave space for a dessert if you can. Anyone for profiteroles bathed in warm chocolate and Chantilly cream (7,90€)? Apple tarte tatin (7,80€), crépes Suzette (8,90€), and îles flottantes (6,50€) are other classic French puds. If you lack a sweet tooth, don’t miss the assortment of French cheeses with fig jam (8,50€).

    Our lunch at Les Artistes

    For our lunch we started with a marinated fillet of herring with potatoes, onions, and carrots (7,20€), and fried Camembert with salad and fig jam (7,80€) which was accompanied by slices of toasted baguette to mop up all the delicious oozing cheese. Both starters were generous in size and very tasty. 

    The Boss’s main course was pike ‘quenelle de brochet avec sauce Nantua’ – a typical dish from Lyon and the perfect winter warmer with its rich sauce and puff pastry garnish (17,30€). A friend had recommended the beef dish, ‘onglet de boeuf, sauce aux échalots’ and although I eat little red meat, I chose this dish with its oven-baked new potatoes and shallot sauce (18,70€). Our waitress asked me how I’d like the hanger steak cooked and the tender meat arrived just as requested. It was delicious.

    Our desserts were tarte tatin and crème brûlée with pistachios (7,50€). 

    Good to Know

    Wines are French and reasonably priced too. We had wine by the glass at 4€ each.

    For a restaurant in the heart of Palma, prices at Les Artistes are attractive. And service is friendly and efficient, with the serving staff dressed in jaunty flat caps and aprons.

    Les Artistes is in the heart of Palma, right opposite the access to the underground car park at Mercat de l’Olivar. The nearby department store El Corté Inglés on the Avenidas has an underground car park too so you could park there and combine a shopping trip with lunch (or dinner) at Les Artistes in Palma.

    Les Artistes is popular so be sure to book your table in advance. 

    Jan Edwards©2024

  • Relax at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca in Portocolom

    Portocolom in southeast Mallorca

    Portocolom is said to be the birthplace of the explorer Christopher Columbus, but I imagine if he were alive today, he’d be content to spend more time in this picturesque part of Mallorca. Like the holidaymakers who visit Portocolom for its beautiful setting, I’m always happy to be there, whether it’s for a walk around one of Mallorca’s largest, sheltered harbours, or a meal or drink while gazing at the boats bobbing at anchor in the water.

    There’s a serenity about Portocolom, even in the height of summer. It’s still a fishing village where you can see nets laid out to dry or for mending, and the cute, traditional Mallorcan fishing boats known as llauts.

    Portocolom’s Cool 5-Star Hotel

    Portocolom has had even more appeal since the gorgeous, 5-star Barefoot Hotel opened last year. The hotel occupies two buildings opposite each other in a quiet back street and has 60 rooms and suites. Most of these are in the main building but 15 of them – and the Barefoot Restaurant – are in a building overlooking the water.

    The vibe in this hotel is relaxed and friendly from the moment you arrive, and the reception team greets you warmly. We commented several times to each other about the friendliness of all the staff, concluding that the hotel being open all year and providing year-round rather than seasonal employment, could be a factor.

    The décor is based on a palette of warm, earthy shades and materials from nature. I’d sum it up as unpretentious luxury. It’s easy to feel relaxed here, whether you’re browsing through a magazine or newspaper in the spacious foyer, lounging on the pool terrace, or enjoying the privacy of your own room.

    Other Facilities at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca

    In summer (or for Wim Hof disciples in the colder months) there’s an outdoor pool and a large terrace with a variety of furniture for relaxation, including an inviting poolside hammock and Balinese-style beds. Alongside this is the large breakfast and lunch room, with tables available outside in appropriate weather.

    Wellness facilities include a Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi, indoor pools, and relaxation area. Spa treatments are offered and if you do stay at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca, I recommend booking any spa treatments before you arrive. See here for the menu of treatments.

    The hotel has a bike storage room – useful to know for those taking advantage of the cycling season.

    Food & Drink

    The restaurant in the larger building serves breakfast and lunch to hotel guests.. The choice of breakfast dishes impressed us – as did the server, Austin, who explained everything that was on offer. Hot dishes are made to order.

    Barefoot Restaurant is the main restaurant, located in the building facing the sea. This dinner-only restaurant is also open to the public and has a separate entrance for those not staying in the hotel.

    The à la carte menu here references Til Schweiger’s favourite dishes. If you don’t know (and I didn’t until I read an article about him a few years ago), Til is a famous German actor, writer, and filmmaker. He’s also the creator of the Barefoot Hotels brand.

    Escape the Winter with a Longer Stay

    The temperature today in Mallorca has been up to 22 degrees Celsius (at home) and the sun has shone almost all day (as it has for several days). For those who live in colder climes and are retired or can work remotely, a longer stay at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca offers an escape from the usual winter. The hotel offers special rates for stays of 14, 21, and 28 nights – detailed on their website.

    Special Rates for Mallorca Residents

    The winter months are when islanders reclaim Mallorca after the busy holiday season. The pace of life is slower with fewer tourists, and prices in the open-in-winter hotels are more accessible. Barefoot Hotel Mallorca is offering special rates for Mallorca residents – an opportunity to have a mini-break in a different part of the island.

    Be like Columbus and Explore!

    If you can drag yourself away from the relaxing Barefoot Hotel, you’re within an easy drive of some places worth exploring.

    Felanitx is 14km away and has a good market on Sundays. The area has several wineries and is part of the DO Pla i Llevant.

    The attractive town of Santanyi is 16km away and has an excellent market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The town has some appealing shops, art galleries, and places to eat and drink while you’re there.

    Visit the hilltop Sanctuary of Sant Salvador near Felanitx. At 509 metres above sea level, you can expect awesome views on a clear day. Castell de Santuari is another location with great views.

    If you’re into golf, Vall d’Or course is very nearby, with elevated views toward Portocolom and Cala d’Or further south. You can play nine or 18 holes on this par 71, 5,538-metre course.

    And, if you do book, please do tell the hotel you read about them on eatdrinksleepmallorca.

    Jan Edwards ©2023

  • Michelin Stars Mallorca 2024

    The Guía Michelin España last night announced its awards for 2024 at a gala at the Barcelona International Convention Centre.

    For 2024, Mallorca has 11 restaurants with a Michelin star, and a total of 12 Michelin stars, with one NEW addition to the gastronomic firmament.

    2-Michelin Stars in Mallorca

    Voro restaurant in Canyamel has retained its two stars.

    Mallorca’s One-Michelin-Star Restaurants

    Adrián Quetglas – Palma

    Andreu Genestra – Llucmajor. This restaurant already had a star when it was located in Capdepera but this was announced as a new star because the restaurant relocated.

    Bens d’Avall – Sóller

    DINS Santi Taura – Palma

    Es Fum – Costa d’en Blanes

    Fusión 19 – Muro

    Maca de Castro – Alcúdia

    Marc Fosh – Palma

    **NEW** Sa Clastra – Es Capdellà

    Zaranda – Palma

    Green Michelin Stars

    Twelve new Green Michelin stars were awarded across Spain – and three of those were for restaurants in Mallorca:

    Andreu Genestra – Llucmajor (previously held a Green star but classed as new because of the restaurant move)

    Bens d’Avall – Sóller

    Ca Na Toneta – Caimari

    New Star on the Block

    Jordi Cantó pictured at a recent Peccata Minute event in Inca, organised by Chefs(in).

    Sa Clastra gains its first Michelin star for 2024. This restaurant is one of two at the 5-star hotel Castell Son Claret, located in the tranquil countryside near Es Capella.

    Mallorca chef Jordi Cantó leads the kitchen team at Sa Clastra and although the restaurant didn’t open until 2021, he has worked at the stoves of Castell Son Claret since it opened in 2013. In 2021, he became the hotel’s executive chef, when Sa Clastra was launched. The restaurant has Philip Dion as maître d’ and Javier Gómez as sommelier.

    ‘It’s a special moment to receive a Michelin star for a restaurant concept that celebrates and honours the culinary heritage of my island of birth,’ Jordi Cantó says, also acknowledging the role of the entire Sa Clastra team.

    You’ll have to wait to try Sa Clastra’s gourmet tasting menu: the hotel is closed for the winter season until March 1st, 2024. Sa Clastra re-opens on March 14th, 2024.

    Congratulations to all Mallorca’s restaurants awarded for 2024.

    Jan Edwards ©2023

  • My Top 3 Restaurants in Manacor

    People often ask me to recommend restaurants in Mallorca’s second-largest town, Manacor, so here are my top three places to eat out in the Llevant area’s capital.

    Can March

    First opened in 1925, Can March was originally a café serving locals. Today, brothers Miquel and Tolo Gelabert have made this the most popular restaurant in Manacor, even though its location is not central in the town. (Find parking on the side streets in the area, or travel by train to Manacor; it’s about a 10-15-minute walk to Can March).

    Chef Miquel describes his cuisine as ‘new Mallorcan’: traditional dishes with a modern and international touch, based on local, seasonal produce. While he’s in the kitchen, Tolo and his wife Cati are front of house – which is efficiently run. 

    The three-course weekday lunch costs 18€ and offers a choice of four starters, four main courses, and desserts – with vegetarian options available. The daily changing menú del día isn’t printed, so Cati comes to the table to tell you the choices.  Xeixa wheat bread, oil, and salt cost an extra 1.90€ per person and you’re asked whether you want it – unlike many restaurants where you’re served it automatically. I’m a bit fussy about bread and don’t really enjoy the sliced, standard, white baguette that is often in a bread basket.

    It’s essential to book a table for lunch at popular Can March. And to look at the à la carte menu, which is also well priced for the quality. Rice dishes are good, with a choice of seven types (including paellas) ranging from 15€ to 25€ a head. For a treat, try the tasting menu at 50€.

    Open for lunch daily (except Mondays) from 13:00h to 15:30h. Dinner (Friday and Saturday only) 20:00h–22:30h

    Übeck

    Übeck opened at the end of 2021 and describes itself as a gastro-bar, offering flavours of the world made from local produce. The owner is Javier Hoebeeck, the chef behind the culinary creations at the Michelin-starred Fusion 19, but Übeck is run by Gabriel and Cassandra (in the chef’s hat). They offer what they call ‘real food’.

    There’s table seating for around 20 diners and a few seats at the counter – behind which most of the cooking and plating is done. The interior is contemporary, clean, and bright, and the ambience is informal, with music playing.

    The menu is displayed outside the restaurant – in English too – and there are always additional ‘specials’. I’m almost addicted to their large croquettes of chicken, spinach, peanuts, and curry – four for 8,20€. We like the wok udon too with crispy prawns (14,75€). Vegetarians have a couple of starters and a couple of main-course dishes to choose from on the main menu. Portions are generous here.

    Übeck’s wines are displayed on shelves marked with bottle prices, which seem fair. Check out too the special-edition vermouth and hidromiel– the fermented honey drink known in English as mead.

    There’s meter parking on the road where Übeck is located.

    Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch from 12:30h-16:00h & dinner from 19:30h-23:00h.

    US Open Restaurant

    You don’t have to be a tennis player or even visit the interesting multi-sports Rafa Nadal Museum to eat lunch at the tennis supremo’s expanding centre on the outskirts of Manacor, where there’s a choice of two restaurants: the Roland Garros and the US Open – the latter serving breakfast and lunch but not dinner.

    The US Open Restaurant is light and airy, with floor-to-ceiling glass on one side, affording extensive views of some of the centre’s facilities. Framed posters from US Open tournaments hang on one wall. In fine weather, you can take a table on the terrace.

    You’ll find an à la carte menu, compiled with the aid of Rafa’s nutritionist. Expect some healthy choices if that’s what you want, and some dishes cooked on the Josper grill. Poke bowls and pasta dishes cost 16,50€ each. Salmon fillet cooked in the Josper is 18€.

    There’s a kids’ menu and good options for those who are gluten-free. Note: the restaurant no longer offers what was a bargain menu of the day when the space was in its former Sport Café guise.

    The Rafa Nadal complex has the benefit of a huge car park – and a potential sighting of the man himself practising for a return to competitive tennis next year. Or even eating lunch.

    Open daily for lunch 13:00-16:00h. Breakfast buffet €15 from 07:30-10:00h.

    Jan Edwards ©2023

  • Enjoy Serene Living at Silentia Spa

    Have you ever booked a hotel on the basis that it had a spa … and then not used the facility during your stay? I know I have. It might have been a reluctance to go through the hassle of changing into swimming gear or sportswear, or finding that the spa didn’t live up to expectations (I remember a hotel spa that was too chilly for poolside relaxation after a swim).

    One spa that is sure to appeal is the new Silentia, which has opened this year at the 5-star El Coto Boutique Hotel (now with & Spa added to its name) in Colònia de Sant Jordi.

    We’ve stayed in this stylish, seasonal hotel for The Boss’s birthday every year since 2015. This year we arrived to find the addition of Silentia Spa & Wellness, replacing the hotel’s old tennis courts. And this new facility is gorgeous, as well as being well equipped.

    Silentia’s Facilities

    These include the hydrothermal pool, sauna, Turkish bath/Hammam, sensation showers, frigidarium, cold-shower bucket (very Wim Hof), hydromassage, relaxation area with heated loungers (very Jan Edwards), various treatment/massage/beauty rooms, fitness room, yoga room, and outdoor relaxation area. Everything is high quality and it seems as though no expense has been spared to create this new spa.

    Treatments & Therapies

    These include facial care, massages, body care, treatments for men, Reiki, reflexology, body peeling, hydrotherapy and thalassotherapy, hand-and-feet care, couple treatments, and more. I like the sound of the three body-wellness care packages, ‘Route of Delights’, ‘Travel to Shivalik’, and ‘Spice Route’. For the full list of treatments, click here. You’ll also find information about Day Passes on the website.

    One for 2024

    El Coto Boutique Hotel & Spa opens this year from March 22nd to November 17th. The hotel has special offers for the period between March 22nd and April 15th and again from November 1st to 17th.

    Jan Edwards 2023©

  • The Tasting Menu at Singular Restaurant at The Lodge

    Ramón Freixa

    You’ll find other restaurants across Mallorca cooking over a wood fire but none of them can claim to have a chef from a two-Michelin-star restaurant driving their gastronomic concept. Singular Restaurant lives up to its name, boasting cocina del fuego directed by the prestigious and affable chef, Ramón Freixa, whose starred eponymous restaurant is in Madrid.

    Born in a small town in Barcelona, Freixa remembers the childhood aroma of freshly baked bread from his grandparents’ bakery. He’s proud of his Mediterranean roots and his heritage and his cuisine reflects this. Of course, with a 2-Michelin-star restaurant to run in Madrid, he’s not standing over a wood fire in Mallorca on a daily basis; his trusted Mallorcan chefs, Mateo García and Sergi Fernández run the kitchen, under his direction.

    The Restaurant of The Lodge Mallorca

    Singular is the restaurant of the 24-room, five-star hotel, The Lodge Mallorca, which opened in May this year on a private nature reserve of some 157 hectares. The Lodge Mallorca has the island’s largest lavender field (12 hectares) and I imagine that once it’s in full bloom, it’ll become an Instagram-worthy sight.

    The Lodge Mallorca is part of the Único Hotels group and has a sister hotel – Finca Serena – in Montuïri. Both are on large fincas surrounded by nature and inspiring calm and relaxation. The lavender at The Lodge will only add to that!

    The Cuisine at Singular

    Expert cooking with fire achieves high levels of deliciousness here, where the estate provides wood from its numerous almond, olive, carob, and Holm oak trees – each adding subtle nuances to the cuisine.

    The kitchen sources the best local, seasonal produce from local farmers and fishermen to create simple but often sensational dishes showcasing the high quality of the ingredients. These ingredients include honey from the estate’s bee hives; extra virgin olive oil (and wines) from Finca Serena, and Wagyu de Sant Martí beef (cattle born and raised in the foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana).

    Singular offers an à la carte menu of starters, grilled fresh veggies, rice dishes, seafood, grilled meats, side dishes, and desserts. But for a special treat and the opportunity to enjoy Ramón Freixa’s interpretation of Mallorca’s traditional cuisine, try the tasting menu (90€).

    The delicious bread at Singular is home-made with Mallorcan xeixa wheat flour; it was served with smoked butter and EVOO from Finca Serena. The cured meats are from the respected Mallorcan supplier, Can Company. 

    The tasting menu begins with a gilda mallorquina like no other I’ve had: sobrasada, pepper, anchovy, figs, and olive skewered onto a twig. A coca of sardines with rosemary tumbet follows. Other treats include the famed red prawn from Sóller, line-caught squid, rice from Sa Pobla, suckling pig (with delicious crackling), and vegetables from the finca, as well as a truly indulgent, ensaÏmada dessert. The menu is like a love story to Mallorcan cuisine – made with carefully sourced ingredients from the island.

    Wines are from the island and beyond and include rosé and white wines made from native Mallorcan grapes, from the vineyards at Finca Serena. 

    The Location

    Singular Restaurant has an attractive dining room, with understated but stylish décor; at night the space is elegant and relaxing with soft lighting and candlelight, making it a romantic place to dine. If the weather is fine, have a seat on the terrace and enjoy the long views of the fertile plains around Sa Pobla and, just beneath you, The Lodge’s tempting swimming pool.

    The Lodge Mallorca is easy to find: from the Ma-13 motorway, take exit 37 in the direction of the Coves de Campanet (worth a visit, by the way). Almost immediately you exit the roundabout, take the service road (service road to Pollença) on the right and you’ll soon reach the entrance to The Lodge.

    I haven’t stayed in the hotel or even seen any of the rooms (they were all occupied when I visited), but having had dinner in Singular Restaurant, I can say you’re in for a treat.

    Jan Edwards©2023

  • Have a Michelin-Star Dinner at Es Fum, Mallorca

    Serious foodies visiting (or living in) Mallorca may want to indulge in a Michelin-starred dining experience – and Mallorca has no fewer than ten restaurants with a Michelin star (and one has two stars). So how do you choose where to splash the cash on an unforgettable meal?

    As the Michelin-star restaurants are located in different areas of Mallorca, it probably comes down to how far you’re prepared to travel. In the southwest of the island, the choice is easy: Es Fum restaurant at the St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort in Costa d’en Blanes. If you’re driving, you’ll sweep through the impressive gates to park securely within the property; I do, however, recommend taking a taxi if you can so you can try some of the exceptional wines on offer.

    Es Fum’s Chef

    Michelin first awarded Es Fum a Michelin star in November 2011 and, despite the change of chef at the helm, has awarded the star annually ever since.

    The chef Miguel Navarro has been creating Es Fum’s cuisine since 2017. A Canarian, from La Gomera, he has an impressive CV, with experience in mainly three-Michelin-star restaurants in locations including Italy, Germany, Tenerife, San Sebastián, Bilbao, Girona, and Barcelona. His talents and the influence of Martin Berasategui (for whom he worked for a total of nine years) are evident in his exquisite cuisine. He has a familial link with Mallorca too as his grandmother was born here.

    The Dining Room & Terrace at Es Fum

    It had been a while since I’d last eaten at Es Fum and when I walked into the restaurant – past a spectacular red painting by the renowned Mallorcan artist and sculptor, Joan Bennàssar – I gasped at the transformation of the dining room.

    Neutral colours, light wood, well-spaced tables, and some soft-pink accents in the upholstery of the seating, have given Es Fum a stylish but relaxed contemporary feel and look. The renovation by the London-based HKS Architects and Designers was undertaken in 2022 during the hotel’s 20th anniversary year.

    On the spacious dining terrace, you’ll spot some of Bennàssar’s signature-style sculptures. ­This is the place to eat on a balmy summer night, soaking up the long views across the resort’s lawns towards the Mediterranean.

    The Tasting Menus

    Es Fum offers three tasting menus: Origin, Recorrido, and Vegetal. An à la carte menu is also available, but we were there for the 12-stage Origin (165€). An optional wine pairing for this menu (120€) is available (a good reason to take a taxi).

    The knowledgeable sommelier Julianna Gonzalez also has previous Michelin-star restaurant experience in Mallorca and, in 2020, was named Best Sommelier of the Balearic Islands at the Sommeliers’ Spanish Championship, Tierra de Sabor. 

    The dishes on the menu include nods to Navarro’s heritage and career, and one, described as MB butter, pays homage to Chef Berasategui, whose restaurants hold a total of 12 stars – more than any other chef in Spain.

    Impeccable Service

    As soon as we sat down at our table on the terrace, a member of the service team placed a stool next to my chair for my handbag. A glass of champagne was offered (and accepted) from a choice of labels. A very good start.

    Service is overseen by maître, Fabio Massacci. The high ratio of servers to diners means a luxurious level of service – but without any stuffiness. Each member of the team who looked after us was pleasant. An explanation of each dish was given.

    The Cuisine

    Here are photos of some of the dishes we ate on the night. As you can see, the work and detail that goes into the cuisine at Es Fum is impressive. I went into the kitchen after we’d eaten and took photos of the chefs on duty that night. The temperature in the kitchen was high but everyone seemed happy in their work and the ambience suggested Miguel Navarro is a good leader.

    The Padrón brothers with fellow Canarian Miguel Navarro

    Some prestigious talent from the gastronomic world also dined the night we were there. One of America’s best-known chefs, Grant Achatz of Chicago’s 3-Michelin-star restaurant, Alinea, and the Padrón chef brothers from the 2-Michelin-star El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Tenerife had chosen to eat at Es Fum. If it’s good enough for them . . .

    Good to Know

    Es Fum is open April-October, Wednesday to Sunday, from 19:30h-22:30h.

    Details of the tasting menus and optional wine pairings are on http://www.restaurant-esfum.com

    Booking ahead is essential.

    The St Regis Mardavall’s other restaurant is Terra.

    Jan Edwards©2023