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A Taste of Paris in Palma
A few tables outside Les Artistes on the pavement Who needs a trip to Paris for a taste of French cuisine? If travelling to France isn’t on the cards for you but the prospect of an authentic French onion soup or a hearty boeuf bourguignon appeals, head to Les Artistes, a cosy French bistro in the heart of Palma, Mallorca’s capital. By the time you’ve perused the menu and taken the first sip of your French beer or Château Bertinerie, you’ll almost believe you were in the ‘city of light’.
The décor helps to achieve this feeling. Think of a French bistro you’ve seen in a movie and you’ll find similar features here, such as red-and-white checked tablecloths and napkins, and framed French art posters and photographs on the walls.
But the most notable authenticity relates to the food – classic savoury and sweet dishes from the French culinary canon.
What’s on the menu at Les Artistes?
The winter menu has starters including snails from Burgundy, sausage from Lyon, and the ever-popular onion soup with grilled Emmental and French bread. Main courses include boeuf bourguignon (made over three days and from three cuts of beef) served in a Le Creuset pot (18,90€), confit of duck (19,50€), hanger steak (‘onglet de boeuf’ (18,70€), and pike quenelle with a sauce of Norwegian lobster and shrimp bisque, and pilaf rice (17,30€). A few vegetarian dishes are available – including a vegetarian main course.
Leave space for a dessert if you can. Anyone for profiteroles bathed in warm chocolate and Chantilly cream (7,90€)? Apple tarte tatin (7,80€), crépes Suzette (8,90€), and îles flottantes (6,50€) are other classic French puds. If you lack a sweet tooth, don’t miss the assortment of French cheeses with fig jam (8,50€).
Our lunch at Les Artistes
For our lunch we started with a marinated fillet of herring with potatoes, onions, and carrots (7,20€), and fried Camembert with salad and fig jam (7,80€) which was accompanied by slices of toasted baguette to mop up all the delicious oozing cheese. Both starters were generous in size and very tasty.
The Boss’s main course was pike ‘quenelle de brochet avec sauce Nantua’ – a typical dish from Lyon and the perfect winter warmer with its rich sauce and puff pastry garnish (17,30€). A friend had recommended the beef dish, ‘onglet de boeuf, sauce aux échalots’ and although I eat little red meat, I chose this dish with its oven-baked new potatoes and shallot sauce (18,70€). Our waitress asked me how I’d like the hanger steak cooked and the tender meat arrived just as requested. It was delicious.
Our desserts were tarte tatin and crème brûlée with pistachios (7,50€).
Good to Know
Wines are French and reasonably priced too. We had wine by the glass at 4€ each.
For a restaurant in the heart of Palma, prices at Les Artistes are attractive. And service is friendly and efficient, with the serving staff dressed in jaunty flat caps and aprons.
Les Artistes is in the heart of Palma, right opposite the access to the underground car park at Mercat de l’Olivar. The nearby department store El Corté Inglés on the Avenidas has an underground car park too so you could park there and combine a shopping trip with lunch (or dinner) at Les Artistes in Palma.
Les Artistes is popular so be sure to book your table in advance.
Jan Edwards©2024
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Relax at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca in Portocolom
Portocolom in southeast Mallorca Portocolom is said to be the birthplace of the explorer Christopher Columbus, but I imagine if he were alive today, he’d be content to spend more time in this picturesque part of Mallorca. Like the holidaymakers who visit Portocolom for its beautiful setting, I’m always happy to be there, whether it’s for a walk around one of Mallorca’s largest, sheltered harbours, or a meal or drink while gazing at the boats bobbing at anchor in the water.
There’s a serenity about Portocolom, even in the height of summer. It’s still a fishing village where you can see nets laid out to dry or for mending, and the cute, traditional Mallorcan fishing boats known as llauts.
Portocolom’s Cool 5-Star Hotel
Portocolom has had even more appeal since the gorgeous, 5-star Barefoot Hotel opened last year. The hotel occupies two buildings opposite each other in a quiet back street and has 60 rooms and suites. Most of these are in the main building but 15 of them – and the Barefoot Restaurant – are in a building overlooking the water.
The view from our room 
A very comfortable bed and ensuite facilities including coffee maker, bottled water, TV, free WiFi, hair dryer, and magazines. The vibe in this hotel is relaxed and friendly from the moment you arrive, and the reception team greets you warmly. We commented several times to each other about the friendliness of all the staff, concluding that the hotel being open all year and providing year-round rather than seasonal employment, could be a factor. That and good management: general manager Björn Wild was in charge at the 5-star Gran Hotel Son Net in Mallorca’s southwest for a good number of years.
5 stars in Portocolom 
Hotel foyer 
Lounge area too 
A detail on the way to the pool terrace The décor is based on a palette of warm, earthy shades and materials from nature. I’d sum it up as unpretentious luxury. It’s easy to feel relaxed here, whether you’re browsing through a magazine or newspaper in the spacious foyer, lounging on the pool terrace, or enjoying the privacy of your own room.
Other Facilities at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca
In summer (or for Wim Hof disciples in the colder months) there’s an outdoor pool and a large terrace with a variety of furniture for relaxation, including an inviting poolside hammock and Balinese-style beds. Alongside this is the large breakfast and lunch room, with tables available outside in appropriate weather.
Wellness facilities include a Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi, indoor pools, and relaxation area. Spa treatments are offered and if you do stay at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca, I recommend booking any spa treatments before you arrive. See here for the menu of treatments.
The hotel has a bike storage room – useful to know for those taking advantage of the cycling season.
Food & Drink
The restaurant in the larger building serves breakfast and lunch to hotel guests.. The choice of breakfast dishes impressed us – as did the server, Austin, who explained everything that was on offer. Hot dishes are made to order.
Breakfast and lunch room. Our server Austin. 
Healthy choices for breakfast 
Help yourself! 
Continental cuts 
The dinner restaurant 
Part of the restaurant Barefoot Restaurant is the main restaurant, located in the building facing the sea. This dinner-only restaurant is also open to the public and has a separate entrance for those not staying in the hotel. Chef Florian García is at the helm in the kitchen and has worked at Hotel Cort in Palma and Hotel Valldemossa, among others.
The à la carte menu here references Til Schweiger’s favourite dishes. If you don’t know (and I didn’t until I read an article about him a few years ago), Til is a famous German actor, writer, and filmmaker. He’s also the creator of the Barefoot Hotels brand.
Escape the Winter with a Longer Stay
The temperature today in Mallorca has been up to 22 degrees Celsius (at home) and the sun has shone almost all day (as it has for several days). For those who live in colder climes and are retired or can work remotely, a longer stay at Barefoot Hotel Mallorca offers an escape from the usual winter. The hotel offers special rates for stays of 14, 21, and 28 nights – detailed on their website.
Special Rates for Mallorca Residents
The winter months are when islanders reclaim Mallorca after the busy holiday season. The pace of life is slower with fewer tourists, and prices in the open-in-winter hotels are more accessible. Barefoot Hotel Mallorca is offering special rates for Mallorca residents – an opportunity to have a mini-break in a different part of the island.
Be like Columbus and Explore!
If you can drag yourself away from the relaxing Barefoot Hotel, you’re within an easy drive of some places worth exploring.
Felanitx is 14km away and has a good market on Sundays. The area has several wineries and is part of the DO Pla i Llevant.
The attractive town of Santanyi is 16km away and has an excellent market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The town has some appealing shops, art galleries, and places to eat and drink while you’re there.
Visit the hilltop Sanctuary of Sant Salvador near Felanitx. At 509 metres above sea level, you can expect awesome views on a clear day. Castell de Santuari is another location with great views.
If you’re into golf, Vall d’Or course is very nearby, with elevated views toward Portocolom and Cala d’Or further south. You can play nine or 18 holes on this par 71, 5,538-metre course.
And, if you do book, please do tell the hotel you read about them on eatdrinksleepmallorca.
Jan Edwards ©2023
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Michelin Stars Mallorca 2024
The Guía Michelin España last night announced its awards for 2024 at a gala at the Barcelona International Convention Centre.
For 2024, Mallorca has 11 restaurants with a Michelin star, and a total of 12 Michelin stars, with one NEW addition to the gastronomic firmament.
2-Michelin Stars in Mallorca
Voro restaurant in Canyamel has retained its two stars.
Mallorca’s One-Michelin-Star Restaurants
Adrián Quetglas – Palma
Andreu Genestra – Llucmajor. This restaurant already had a star when it was located in Capdepera but this was announced as a new star because the restaurant relocated.
Bens d’Avall – Sóller
DINS Santi Taura – Palma
Es Fum – Costa d’en Blanes
Fusión 19 – Muro
Maca de Castro – Alcúdia
Marc Fosh – Palma
**NEW** Sa Clastra – Es Capdellà
Zaranda – Palma
Green Michelin Stars
Twelve new Green Michelin stars were awarded across Spain – and three of those were for restaurants in Mallorca:
Andreu Genestra – Llucmajor (previously held a Green star but classed as new because of the restaurant move)
Bens d’Avall – Sóller
Ca Na Toneta – Caimari
New Star on the Block
Jordi Cantó pictured at a recent Peccata Minute event in Inca, organised by Chefs(in). Sa Clastra gains its first Michelin star for 2024. This restaurant is one of two at the 5-star hotel Castell Son Claret, located in the tranquil countryside near Es Capella.
Mallorca chef Jordi Cantó leads the kitchen team at Sa Clastra and although the restaurant didn’t open until 2021, he has worked at the stoves of Castell Son Claret since it opened in 2013. In 2021, he became the hotel’s executive chef, when Sa Clastra was launched. The restaurant has Philip Dion as maître d’ and Javier Gómez as sommelier.
‘It’s a special moment to receive a Michelin star for a restaurant concept that celebrates and honours the culinary heritage of my island of birth,’ Jordi Cantó says, also acknowledging the role of the entire Sa Clastra team.
You’ll have to wait to try Sa Clastra’s gourmet tasting menu: the hotel is closed for the winter season until March 1st, 2024. Sa Clastra re-opens on March 14th, 2024.
Congratulations to all Mallorca’s restaurants awarded for 2024.
Jan Edwards ©2023
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My Top 3 Restaurants in Manacor
People often ask me to recommend restaurants in Mallorca’s second-largest town, Manacor, so here are my top three places to eat out in the Llevant area’s capital.
Can March
First opened in 1925, Can March was originally a café serving locals. Today, brothers Miquel and Tolo Gelabert have made this the most popular restaurant in Manacor, even though its location is not central in the town. (Find parking on the side streets in the area, or travel by train to Manacor; it’s about a 10-15-minute walk to Can March).
Chef Miquel describes his cuisine as ‘new Mallorcan’: traditional dishes with a modern and international touch, based on local, seasonal produce. While he’s in the kitchen, Tolo and his wife Cati are front of house – which is efficiently run.
The three-course weekday lunch costs 18€ and offers a choice of four starters, four main courses, and desserts – with vegetarian options available. The daily changing menú del día isn’t printed, so Cati comes to the table to tell you the choices. Xeixa wheat bread, oil, and salt cost an extra 1.90€ per person and you’re asked whether you want it – unlike many restaurants where you’re served it automatically. I’m a bit fussy about bread and don’t really enjoy the sliced, standard, white baguette that is often in a bread basket.
It’s essential to book a table for lunch at popular Can March. And to look at the à la carte menu, which is also well priced for the quality. Rice dishes are good, with a choice of seven types (including paellas) ranging from 15€ to 25€ a head. For a treat, try the tasting menu at 50€.
Open for lunch daily (except Mondays) from 13:00h to 15:30h. Dinner (Friday and Saturday only) 20:00h–22:30h
Übeck
Übeck opened at the end of 2021 and describes itself as a gastro-bar, offering flavours of the world made from local produce. The owner is Javier Hoebeeck, the chef behind the culinary creations at the Michelin-starred Fusion 19, but Übeck is run by Gabriel and Cassandra (in the chef’s hat). They offer what they call ‘real food’.
There’s table seating for around 20 diners and a few seats at the counter – behind which most of the cooking and plating is done. The interior is contemporary, clean, and bright, and the ambience is informal, with music playing.
The menu is displayed outside the restaurant – in English too – and there are always additional ‘specials’. I’m almost addicted to their large croquettes of chicken, spinach, peanuts, and curry – four for 8,20€. We like the wok udon too with crispy prawns (14,75€). Vegetarians have a couple of starters and a couple of main-course dishes to choose from on the main menu. Portions are generous here.
Übeck’s wines are displayed on shelves marked with bottle prices, which seem fair. Check out too the special-edition vermouth and hidromiel– the fermented honey drink known in English as mead.
There’s meter parking on the road where Übeck is located.
Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch from 12:30h-16:00h & dinner from 19:30h-23:00h.
US Open Restaurant
You don’t have to be a tennis player or even visit the interesting multi-sports Rafa Nadal Museum to eat lunch at the tennis supremo’s expanding centre on the outskirts of Manacor, where there’s a choice of two restaurants: the Roland Garros and the US Open – the latter serving breakfast and lunch but not dinner.
The US Open Restaurant is light and airy, with floor-to-ceiling glass on one side, affording extensive views of some of the centre’s facilities. Framed posters from US Open tournaments hang on one wall. In fine weather, you can take a table on the terrace.
You’ll find an à la carte menu, compiled with the aid of Rafa’s nutritionist. Expect some healthy choices if that’s what you want, and some dishes cooked on the Josper grill. Poke bowls and pasta dishes cost 16,50€ each. Salmon fillet cooked in the Josper is 18€.
There’s a kids’ menu and good options for those who are gluten-free. Note: the restaurant no longer offers what was a bargain menu of the day when the space was in its former Sport Café guise.
The Rafa Nadal complex has the benefit of a huge car park – and a potential sighting of the man himself practising for a return to competitive tennis next year. Or even eating lunch.
Open daily for lunch 13:00-16:00h. Breakfast buffet €15 from 07:30-10:00h.
Jan Edwards ©2023
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Enjoy Serene Living at Silentia Spa
Have you ever booked a hotel on the basis that it had a spa … and then not used the facility during your stay? I know I have. It might have been a reluctance to go through the hassle of changing into swimming gear or sportswear, or finding that the spa didn’t live up to expectations (I remember a hotel spa that was too chilly for poolside relaxation after a swim).
One spa that is sure to appeal is the new Silentia, which has opened this year at the 5-star El Coto Boutique Hotel (now with & Spa added to its name) in Colònia de Sant Jordi.
We’ve stayed in this stylish, seasonal hotel for The Boss’s birthday every year since 2015. This year we arrived to find the addition of Silentia Spa & Wellness, replacing the hotel’s old tennis courts. And this new facility is gorgeous, as well as being well equipped.
Silentia’s Facilities
These include the hydrothermal pool, sauna, Turkish bath/Hammam, sensation showers, frigidarium, cold-shower bucket (very Wim Hof), hydromassage, relaxation area with heated loungers (very Jan Edwards), various treatment/massage/beauty rooms, fitness room, yoga room, and outdoor relaxation area. Everything is high quality and it seems as though no expense has been spared to create this new spa.
Elevated terrace outside the spa 
A calm ambience in this lounge area 
Ooh, heated loungers 
Hammam 
Sauna 
High-quality eco wooden fitness equipment from NOHrD 
Stylish fitness room 
Detail from the treatment area 
Treatment room with private garden view 
Go with a friend or loved one 
Feeling zen after time in Silentia Treatments & Therapies
These include facial care, massages, body care, treatments for men, Reiki, reflexology, body peeling, hydrotherapy and thalassotherapy, hand-and-feet care, couple treatments, and more. I like the sound of the three body-wellness care packages, ‘Route of Delights’, ‘Travel to Shivalik’, and ‘Spice Route’. For the full list of treatments, click here. You’ll also find information about Day Passes on the website.
One for 2024
El Coto Boutique Hotel & Spa opens this year from March 22nd to November 17th. The hotel has special offers for the period between March 22nd and April 15th and again from November 1st to 17th.
Jan Edwards 2023©
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The Tasting Menu at Singular Restaurant at The Lodge
Ramón Freixa You’ll find other restaurants across Mallorca cooking over a wood fire but none of them can claim to have a chef from a two-Michelin-star restaurant driving their gastronomic concept. Singular Restaurant lives up to its name, boasting cocina del fuego directed by the prestigious and affable chef, Ramón Freixa, whose starred eponymous restaurant is in Madrid.
Born in a small town in Barcelona, Freixa remembers the childhood aroma of freshly baked bread from his grandparents’ bakery. He’s proud of his Mediterranean roots and his heritage and his cuisine reflects this. Of course, with a 2-Michelin-star restaurant to run in Madrid, he’s not standing over a wood fire in Mallorca on a daily basis; his trusted Mallorcan chefs, Mateo García and Sergi Fernández run the kitchen, under his direction.
The Restaurant of The Lodge Mallorca
Singular is the restaurant of the 24-room, five-star hotel, The Lodge Mallorca, which opened in May this year on a private nature reserve of some 157 hectares. The Lodge Mallorca has the island’s largest lavender field (12 hectares) and I imagine that once it’s in full bloom, it’ll become an Instagram-worthy sight.
The Lodge Mallorca is part of the Único Hotels group and has a sister hotel – Finca Serena – in Montuïri. Both are on large fincas surrounded by nature and inspiring calm and relaxation. The lavender at The Lodge will only add to that!
The Cuisine at Singular
Expert cooking with fire achieves high levels of deliciousness here, where the estate provides wood from its numerous almond, olive, carob, and Holm oak trees – each adding subtle nuances to the cuisine.
The kitchen sources the best local, seasonal produce from local farmers and fishermen to create simple but often sensational dishes showcasing the high quality of the ingredients. These ingredients include honey from the estate’s bee hives; extra virgin olive oil (and wines) from Finca Serena, and Wagyu de Sant Martí beef (cattle born and raised in the foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana).
Singular offers an à la carte menu of starters, grilled fresh veggies, rice dishes, seafood, grilled meats, side dishes, and desserts. But for a special treat and the opportunity to enjoy Ramón Freixa’s interpretation of Mallorca’s traditional cuisine, try the tasting menu (90€).
The delicious bread at Singular is home-made with Mallorcan xeixa wheat flour; it was served with smoked butter and EVOO from Finca Serena. The cured meats are from the respected Mallorcan supplier, Can Company.
The tasting menu begins with a gilda mallorquina like no other I’ve had: sobrasada, pepper, anchovy, figs, and olive skewered onto a twig. A coca of sardines with rosemary tumbet follows. Other treats include the famed red prawn from Sóller, line-caught squid, rice from Sa Pobla, suckling pig (with delicious crackling), and vegetables from the finca, as well as a truly indulgent, ensaÏmada dessert. The menu is like a love story to Mallorcan cuisine – made with carefully sourced ingredients from the island.
Wines are from the island and beyond and include rosé and white wines made from native Mallorcan grapes, from the vineyards at Finca Serena.
The Location
Singular Restaurant has an attractive dining room, with understated but stylish décor; at night the space is elegant and relaxing with soft lighting and candlelight, making it a romantic place to dine. If the weather is fine, have a seat on the terrace and enjoy the long views of the fertile plains around Sa Pobla and, just beneath you, The Lodge’s tempting swimming pool.
The Lodge Mallorca is easy to find: from the Ma-13 motorway, take exit 37 in the direction of the Coves de Campanet (worth a visit, by the way). Almost immediately you exit the roundabout, take the service road (service road to Pollença) on the right and you’ll soon reach the entrance to The Lodge.
I haven’t stayed in the hotel or even seen any of the rooms (they were all occupied when I visited), but having had dinner in Singular Restaurant, I can say you’re in for a treat.
Jan Edwards©2023
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Have a Michelin-Star Dinner at Es Fum, Mallorca
Serious foodies visiting (or living in) Mallorca may want to indulge in a Michelin-starred dining experience – and Mallorca has no fewer than ten restaurants with a Michelin star (and one has two stars). So how do you choose where to splash the cash on an unforgettable meal?
As the Michelin-star restaurants are located in different areas of Mallorca, it probably comes down to how far you’re prepared to travel. In the southwest of the island, the choice is easy: Es Fum restaurant at the St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort in Costa d’en Blanes. If you’re driving, you’ll sweep through the impressive gates to park securely within the property; I do, however, recommend taking a taxi if you can so you can try some of the exceptional wines on offer.
Es Fum’s Chef
Michelin first awarded Es Fum a Michelin star in November 2011 and, despite the change of chef at the helm, has awarded the star annually ever since.
The chef Miguel Navarro has been creating Es Fum’s cuisine since 2017. A Canarian, from La Gomera, he has an impressive CV, with experience in mainly three-Michelin-star restaurants in locations including Italy, Germany, Tenerife, San Sebastián, Bilbao, Girona, and Barcelona. His talents and the influence of Martin Berasategui (for whom he worked for a total of nine years) are evident in his exquisite cuisine. He has a familial link with Mallorca too as his grandmother was born here.
The Dining Room & Terrace at Es Fum
It had been a while since I’d last eaten at Es Fum and when I walked into the restaurant – past a spectacular red painting by the renowned Mallorcan artist and sculptor, Joan Bennàssar – I gasped at the transformation of the dining room.
Neutral colours, light wood, well-spaced tables, and some soft-pink accents in the upholstery of the seating, have given Es Fum a stylish but relaxed contemporary feel and look. The renovation by the London-based HKS Architects and Designers was undertaken in 2022 during the hotel’s 20th anniversary year.
On the spacious dining terrace, you’ll spot some of Bennàssar’s signature-style sculptures. This is the place to eat on a balmy summer night, soaking up the long views across the resort’s lawns towards the Mediterranean.
The Tasting Menus
Es Fum offers three tasting menus: Origin, Recorrido, and Vegetal. An à la carte menu is also available, but we were there for the 12-stage Origin (165€). An optional wine pairing for this menu (120€) is available (a good reason to take a taxi).
The knowledgeable sommelier Julianna Gonzalez also has previous Michelin-star restaurant experience in Mallorca and, in 2020, was named Best Sommelier of the Balearic Islands at the Sommeliers’ Spanish Championship, Tierra de Sabor.
The dishes on the menu include nods to Navarro’s heritage and career, and one, described as MB butter, pays homage to Chef Berasategui, whose restaurants hold a total of 12 stars – more than any other chef in Spain.
Impeccable Service
As soon as we sat down at our table on the terrace, a member of the service team placed a stool next to my chair for my handbag. A glass of champagne was offered (and accepted) from a choice of labels. A very good start.
Service is overseen by maître, Fabio Massacci. The high ratio of servers to diners means a luxurious level of service – but without any stuffiness. Each member of the team who looked after us was pleasant. An explanation of each dish was given.
The Cuisine
Here are photos of some of the dishes we ate on the night. As you can see, the work and detail that goes into the cuisine at Es Fum is impressive. I went into the kitchen after we’d eaten and took photos of the chefs on duty that night. The temperature in the kitchen was high but everyone seemed happy in their work and the ambience suggested Miguel Navarro is a good leader.
The Padrón brothers with fellow Canarian Miguel Navarro Some prestigious talent from the gastronomic world also dined the night we were there. One of America’s best-known chefs, Grant Achatz of Chicago’s 3-Michelin-star restaurant, Alinea, and the Padrón chef brothers from the 2-Michelin-star El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Tenerife had chosen to eat at Es Fum. If it’s good enough for them . . .
Good to Know
Es Fum is open April-October, Wednesday to Sunday, from 19:30h-22:30h.
Details of the tasting menus and optional wine pairings are on http://www.restaurant-esfum.com
Booking ahead is essential.
The St Regis Mardavall’s other restaurant is Terra.
Jan Edwards©2023
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Eating at Es Garum in Lloseta
As residents of Mallorca, we can use the island’s public transport free of charge until the end of 2023 – courtesy of our Transports de les Illes Balears Targeta Intermodal card. As the designated driver, I’m happy to let a train or bus driver do the work for a change – and not have the hassle of searching for somewhere to park the car, a task that’s increasingly difficult during the high season in Mallorca.
Earlier this year we decided to use our free-travel card to try some unfamiliar restaurants in towns and villages along the route of the Manacor-Palma railway. The train took us to the town of Lloseta – known to some foodies as the birthplace of well-known chef Santi Taura, who moved his Lloseta restaurant DINS Santi Taura to Palma, where it has since gained a Michelin star.
We were in Lloseta to have lunch for the first time at chef/patron David Palomo’s Es Garum, which opened in April 2022. We ate à la carte then and remember a tasty venison dish. It’s not a meat I see often on menus in Mallorca so we seized the chance to eat it. After a good lunch, we resolved to return.
Dinner at Es Garum
We finally made it last week for the July tasting menu, which I’d seen publicised on social media:
Acid cherry gazpacho
Iberic ham croquettes and summer truffle mayo
Savoury gofre, summer vegetables ‘sofrito’, tuna and pine nuts
Black pork fillet, spiced aubergine compote and peppercorns sauce
Beetroot sponge, citric-infused cream cheese, vanilla and cardamom sauce
Petits fours
Es Garum is a five-minute walk from Lloseta’s train station. Several tables were set outside the restaurant but we ate indoors. Sun-starved North European holidaymakers often choose the alfresco option but as we live with the heat all summer long, we sometimes take the opportunity to escape it for a while. Besides, I like to experience the décor and ambience of a restaurant interior.
What’s in the Name?
David named his restaurant after the fermented fish sauce known as garum. This may sound like a trendy newcomer on the gastronomic block, but in fact, was first made by the Greeks and Romans in ancient times and derived from the process of preserving fish. Not surprisingly, a few chefs in Spain are now reigniting interest in this culinary ingredient; David Palomo is one of them.
David Palomo 
(L) The garum and (R) the process of making it. He’s passionate about the dark, umami-packed liquid and, recognising our interest, spent some time sharing some of his carefully researched knowledge of the subject. He had even made 20 bottles of garum, using salt from Es Trenc in Mallorca and anchovies from the market, for the opening of his restaurant. “I’m very obsessed with flavours,” he told us. In ancient times, he would have been considered a wealthy man with such a bounty of the liquid.
After we’d finished our dinner, David showed us a large jar of garum-in-the-making and a bottle of the finished garum. We were able to taste this liquid on a spoon and realised that a very small amount can pack a delicious umami punch. Umami, known as the fifth taste, is Japanese for ‘essence of deliciousness’. Indeed.
David and his Cuisine
David is originally from the Valencian Community but has travelled extensively. He worked for six years in Scotland (so speaks English – or should that be Scottish? – well) and still visits each year. It was while working later in Menorca (for six years again) that he met his Mallorcan future wife.
His Mediterranean cuisine is a mix of traditional and avant-garde, based on produce that he sources locally. He offers a seasonal à la carte menu that changes four times a year and a monthly changing tasting menu for a good-value 32,50€.
Our tastebuds were awakened by our dinner opener of warm bread rolls with David’s flavoured butter, incorporating seaweed, smoked paprika, and black pepper. When I enquired about the seaweed, he showed us a small tin of different, dried varieties sourced from Scotland, where he has a great friend. Healthy as well as flavourful.
By the end of the evening, we’d not only had a delicious dinner but also learnt about garum and David Palomo’s enthusiasm for developing flavour in his food. We can’t wait to see the August tasting menu. And get back on the train to Lloseta.
Good to Know
- Es Garum has a reasonably priced wine list and although we were travelling on the train, we both wanted different wines, so we each had a generous measure at 5€ a glass.
- During the summer months, Es Garum is open for dinner only (seven days a week) from 18:30h to 22:30h.
- To find out what’s on the current month’s tasting menu or any events happening at Es Garum, follow the restaurant on Instagram.
- To book: call +34 871 80 67 00 or WhatsApp +34 607 05 69 21.
Jan Edwards©2023
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Review of La Braseria restaurant, Pollença
L-R: Luna Reyes, Ruben Uzquiano, and Alejandra Fernández La Braseria may not have the allure of a seafront eatery in Port de Pollença or a restaurant in the narrow streets of the charming Pollença town, but it does have a Josper charcoal oven. And if you enjoy the flavour of food cooked over fire, La Braseria is worth a visit for young Bolivian chef Ruben Uzquiano’s expert cooking.
How to find La Braseria
This restaurant in the north of Mallorca couldn’t be easier to find – it’s at the Ca’n Berenguer roundabout just outside Pollença town, at the junction with the Ma10 to Lluc. It’s between the traditional mallorquín textiles business Teixits Vicens and Paco Mobles furniture store and, at first glance, La Braseria looks like an ordinary roadside eatery with an attractive covered front terrace.
La Braseria’s Menu
Although the terrace looked appealing, on a hot and humid day we were seduced by the prospect of air conditioning and ate in the smart contemporary-style dining room.
The menu offers tapas, salads, and meats and fish cooked on the grill. The meat choices include T-bone and Tomahawk steaks (for two hungry people). La Braseria sources as much of its produce locally as it can and this includes the 0km lamb, from the Cooperativa de Pollença. Lamb even has its own section on the menu. Vegetarian dishes are restricted to four tapas, one salad, and a falafel burger with cheese and confit tomato sauce, so it’s probably not a destination restaurant for vegetarians.
What we ate at La Braseria
We started by sharing generous portions of patatas bravas (8,90€) and grilled chicken wings with smoky tatemada (charred salsa) sauce (10,50€). Both were delicious and I’d eat those chicken wings again anytime.
We both had sea bass (21,50€ each), which arrived whole on a wooden platter with a lettuce garnish, baked aubergine, and very good home-cut fries. The fish was perfectly cooked, and my only tiny service gripe was having to suggest that a spare plate would be useful for discarding the inedible parts of the fish.
Having eaten well, we weren’t going to have dessert. Until our server, Alejandra, told us that all the desserts are made in-house … and the Josper-baked cheesecake (8,50€) is particularly good. It was like dangling a carrot in front of a donkey, so we shared a cheesecake. Had I known how deliciously creamy and rich it was going to be, I’d have had a portion to myself.
We each had a glass of rosado wine from Mallorcan winery Vi Rei, at 4,50€ a glass. We paid a total of 79,90€ for what was a substantial and very good lunch.
Good to Know
- When on holiday, you don’t want to be clock-watching, so it’s good that La Braseria’s kitchen is open from 12:30 until ten at night so you can discover this place at your leisure.
- Open every day. Breakfast and brunch from 10:30-12:30h and then all-day dining 12:30-22:00h.
- It’s usually possible to find a parking space in front of this row of businesses.
- Teixits Vicens is well worth a visit to see the variety of items made from Mallorca’s ‘cloth of tongues’. You can visit the factory as well as the showroom. Do also check out the outlet section upstairs, where there’s also a large collection of antiques that will surely appeal to anyone looking for authentic decorative pieces for a rustic finca.
- If you enjoy eating at La Braseria, you may be interested to know it’s part of the Group Calvary, which also has eateries in Pollença town (L’Illa & Café El Calvari) and in Port de Pollença (L’Illa).
Jan Edwards ©2023
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Enjoy a Cocktail Made with Olive Oil in Palma
How do you like your extra virgin olive oil? As well as the more common uses – in cooking and dressing food – I swallow a dessertspoonful of this heart-healthy liquid gold each morning before breakfast. I like to try different EVOOs from Mallorca and am currently enjoying the Demeter-status Son Naava, made 100% from Arbequina olives. This oil is one of the high-quality oils bearing the Denomination of Origin, Oli de Mallorca.
For a different use of olive oil, how about a cocktail? Each year for the past ten years, the Consell Regulador de la Denominació d’Origen Oli de Mallorca has challenged mixologists in Mallorca to create a cocktail incorporating an EVOO from this island.
This year, it was bartender Fran Marcós (pictured right) from Arlequín Restaurant & Cocktail Bar whose creation has been named Còctel Oli de Mallorca 2023. His cocktail, Perfect Pear, is a fresh-tasting, Mediterranean drink that’s perfect for the summer in Mallorca.
Marcós’s cocktail is made from Suau gin (from Mallorca), pear, citric, a touch of rosemary, and an EVOO made from Picual olives.
If you’re in Palma and in the mood for a unique cocktail, ask for a Perfect Pear at Arlequín Restaurant & Cocktail Bar.
Did You Know?
Each bottle of EVOO with the DO Oli de Mallorca status has an identifier on the label on the bottle’s lid. If you type that information into the DO’s website, you’ll find out more about that particular oil.
Jan Edwards ©2023
Eat Drink Sleep Mallorca 