Healthy vines lead to healthier wines. That’s not just rhetoric for the Mallorcan winemaker Bàrbara Mesquida Mora – whose wines are the result of vineyards made healthy through biodynamic cultivation. Celler Mesquida Mora is a relatively new winery (started in 2012), but Bàrbara brought a barrelful of experience to her own project – having run her family’s winery with her brother Jaume for some years. It was during that time that the siblings discovered the benefits of biodynamic cultivation.
Although fairly new compared to other wineries on Mallorca (Can Ribas, for example, dates back to 1711), Mesquida Mora’s wines are already widely appreciated and have been critically acclaimed. There was much to celebrate then when Bàrbara threw last night’s party to thank supporters, clients and friends. The Boss and I were delighted to have been invited, having known and been impressed by Bàrbara for several years. And having drunk quite a lot of bottles of her wines!
The magical seven
The winery is just outside the small town of Porreres – a town also known for the apricots produced in the area – and currently produces seven wines:
Sincronia – red, rosé and white. These are all designated Vi de la Terra Mallorca.
Acrollam (you may have spotted that this is Mallorca written in reverse) – white and rosé (Vi de la Terra Mallorca)
Trispol – red – from Cabernet, Shiraz and Callet (DO Pla I Llevant, Mallorca)
Sòtil – red – from Callet and Mantonegro (Vi de la Terra Mallorca)
Bàrbara chose the wine names and the designs of the bottle labels with great care; the relevance of each reveals how much thought went into every stage of her own project. I found her description of the label for Mesquida Mora Acrollam Blanc particularly applicable to this talented and dedicated young Mallorcan winemaker:
“The woman who wants to recover her identity, the femininity prepared to plunge into the sea, prepared to live new adventures and to lead change without relinquishing her personal way of being . . . The mandala formed by concentric blue and gold figures suggests perfection, the constant search for it, and the urge to surpass oneself. The perimeter of the circle evokes the return to the cycles of nature, like the vine itself.”
Bàrbara doesn’t just know how to make great wines: she also throws a good party. Wine flowed, tasty snacks were set out on wooden stalls on the large terrace outside the winery building, and a band played great music. Guests came from all over Mallorca – including the Mallorca-based British author Anna Nicholas and her husband Alan (who live in Sóller), the director of the Aimia Hotel in Puerto Sóller, and one of my favourite chefs (I do have a few), Santi Taura, who came from Lloseta with his wife.
Bàrbara made a speech during the course of the evening and, although she spoke in mallorquin (only some of which I understood), her enthusiasm for her project and her gratitude for all the support she’s had were obvious in the delivery of words clearly spoken from her heart.
No visit to Mallorca is complete without tasting the essence of this beautiful Mediterranean island: a wine from Mesquida Mora.