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Review of Cova Negra Restaurant in Capdepera
A chef with experience of working in Lima’s Astrid & Gastón – often cited as Latin America’s best restaurant – is now at the helm of his own restaurant in northeast Mallorca. Valencian chef Pablo Tamarit opened Cova Negra in Capdepera in April 2019; his restaurant is within the 4-star-plus Hotel Creu de Tau – a superb renovation and conversion of a former Franciscan convent, but run independently of the hotel.
I first visited the property when it was still a construction site: the former manager of sister hotel Melbeach Hotel and Spa in nearby Canyamel took us on a tour and, as we picked our way through rubble and around scaffolding, it was obvious that this would become an impressive hotel. Hotel Creu de Tau and Cova Negra opened in spring this year and we visited the restaurant for dinner last week.
Chef/patron Pablo Tamarit
Pablo Tamarit
Pablo originally studied business in Castellón but changed course, moving to hotel school in Valencia. After his studies he worked for some 18 months at Restaurante Envero in Valencia, with ex-El Bulli chef Tomas Garcia. He came to Mallorca to work at Can Simoneta, the 5-star coastal hotel in Canyamel, where he worked for 12 years – becoming head chef in 2010.
Working in a seasonal hotel enabled Pablo to travel and gain more culinary experience during the winter and, in 2013, he joined the famous Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio in the kitchen of Astrid & Gastón. You’ll find some Peruvian influences in Pablo’s cuisine.
The restaurant
Exterior view of Cova Negra from the car park
As you enter…
Twilight views of the beautiful Mallorcan Llevant hills
Part of the large terrace at Cova Negra
The sign to look out for…
A tasteful conversion of the convent’s former chapelMany of the original architectural features of the building were restored and retained as part of the convent’s conversion. The smart bar reveals its history as the convent’s former chapel; have a drink here or on the bar’s terrace. One wonders what the former Mother Superior would think about this!
The most striking features of the dining room are the gothic arches along the length of the dining room and large windows with views out to the hills. There’s plenty of space between tables and, for even more privacy, a tucked-away private dining room. The restaurant extends onto a large covered terrace, where you eat at cloth-covered tables with restful long views.
Cova Negra has a Mediterranean concept at lunchtime, with an à la carte menu of starters, grilled dishes and, of course (Pablo being from Valencia), paellas. The dinner concept is gastronomic with a very tempting à la carte menu, including a starter of lobster four ways, fish of the day, and Rossini tenderloin of Simmental beef.
Unable to choose from so many tempting dishes, we opted for the tasting menu (65€): seven dishes showcasing Pablo Tamarit’s culinary techniques and creativity. This menu can be accompanied by sommelier and front-of-house manager Ildara Bajo’s wine pairing for 45€. We didn’t indulge because of the drive home, but next time maybe we’ll stay the night and take advantage of the wines.
To start, we had two types of bread (rye and herbed focaccia), truffled beetroot butter, salt, and Aubocassa extra virgin olive oil.
The cuisine
Here are pictures of the dishes we ate. I haven’t given full details of each one – just a hint of what you could experience.
A trio of snacks – including a rich tasty lobster broth (right) started our tasting-menu dinner.
I’m always happy to have scallops. These had some Peruvian touches
Tasty taco topped with Idiazabal cheese and aged beef
Red rice with crispy fried octopus and asparagus – a big hit with me
Perfectly roasted monkfish on black beans cooked in coconut milk. Soooo good.
Slow-cooked off-the-bone rib of Angus with parsnip puree. The Boss’s favourite dish
Yogurt ice cream, sponge, kefir foam and yuzu gelEach dish was explained by the friendly and efficient service-team member who brought it to the table. The kitchen has some attractive plates and bowls on which to present the food and I found myself peering underneath a few of them to see who the manufacturer was!
As always, when we have a tasting menu, we discussed our favourite dishes. I found it hard to choose an overall favourite, as I really enjoyed them all – but eating the tasty taco with fingers proved a little messy. Thank heavens for the hot towel provided beforehand! The Boss’s favourite was the beef; it was delicious.
Although we didn’t drink wine, I checked out the wine list. Cova Negra offers some good Mallorcan wines, including some from the DO Pla i Llevant (Capdepera is in the Llevant hills). Others are from the Peninsula, France, and California. Bottle prices start at 28€, although there is one at 26€.
In summary…
Eating at Cova Negra in Capdepera is an experience we’re sure to repeat and I hope we’ll go for lunch soon to try out a paella made by Pablo Tamarit; as he’s from Valencia (home of authentic paella), I’m pretty sure it’ll be worth the drive to this beautiful northeast corner of Mallorca.
Good to know:
- Anyone who can’t manage the steps up to the restaurant entrance can access Cova Negra using the elevator at the hotel entrance.
- This is an adults-only (14+) establishment.
- Cova Negra is easy to find in Capdepera and shares the hotel’s adjacent large free private car park.
Prices correct at time of writing.
Open daily: 13:00-15:30h & 19:30-22:30h
Jan Edwards©2019
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Pop-up Dinner at Bodega Conde de Suyrot, Mallorca
A fine start to the evening
Pop-up dinners have great appeal for me – as you may have read in previous posts on this blog. Dinner in a winery on Mallorca? Don’t mind if I do; so we did.
The winery in question was the French-owned Bodega Conde de Suyrot in Colònia de Sant Pere, not far from Artà. We’re big fans of their wines, so the prospect of a wine-paired dinner – with food courtesy of Santi Taura Events – was not to be missed. Santi Taura, if you don’t know, is a talented chef from Lloseta (near Inca), whose eponymous restaurant there has been known to have one of the longest waiting lists for a table in the whole of Spain. He also has a weeknight cooking show on the Mallorcan TV station IB3.
Our favourite sunset spot
Bodega Conde de Suyrot is housed in a former stable block and has a huge terrace, which is ideal for a variety of events. This terrace has stunning views over vineyards to the Bay of Alcúdia and the Tramuntana mountains beyond. On the coastline, Colònia de Sant Pere offers spectacular sunset views; Bodega Conde de Suyrot’s views are even better, as the winery is on a hillside.
Pretty sight on arrival at Bodega Conde de Suyrot
Conde Fabrice de Suyrot gave a welcome – with our first glass of wine
Tables on the terrace
Sunset from the terrace of Bodega Conde de SuyrotDinner last Friday was on this terrace. In some pop-up dinner events, diners share a long table but, for this one, tables and chairs were set out in the style of a restaurant terrace. Two front-of-house members of Santi’s team looked after us well and the wine flowed generously.
The menu
Appetizers: Cold soup of Mallorcan almonds, Croquette of the day, Vegetable coca with smoked sardine
Wine: 2018 Conde Blanco
Starter: Cannelloni of meat-stuffed aubergine with sauce
Wine: 2018 Es Cap Roig
Main course: Sea bass cooked en papillote with curried vegetables and aromatic herbs
Wine: 2018 Es Mussol
Dessert: Chocolate, coffee, Baileys
Wine: 2017 Sa Llebre
Santi’s excellent bread was served with oil and salt. A second basket was even provided.
Cold Mallorcan almond soup
A croquette each – delicious
Coca – the Mallorcan equivalent of pizza, but much healthier
Aubergine cannelloni stuffed with meat
Seabass cooked in a cellophane ‘papillote’ with curried vegetables
All the good things – chocolate, coffee, and Baileys – in one dessertThe food was delicious and we appreciated the Conde de Suyrot wine pairings. I must admit that I was a teeny bit disappointed not to see Santi himself at the event but he has a fantastic culinary team who did him and themselves proud.
If you like the look of this dinner – a combination of Bodega Conde de Suyrot wines, the cuisine and service of Santi Taura Events, and nature’s sunset spectacle – another pop-up dinner is scheduled for Friday, August the 16th. For more details, or to book, email af@condedesuyrot.com.
Santi recently closed his restaurants (Santi Taura and DINS Santi Taura), which shared premises in Lloseta and is set to open DINS Santi Taura in Palma very soon, within the new El Llorenç Hotel. He is also about to open Cor Barra i Taula in Palma, which will offer drinks and a simpler style of food. He also has GUST by Santi Taura on the coastal strip in Playa de Muro.
Jan Edwards ©2019
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Mallorca-based British Chef Marc Fosh Launches First Cookbook
London-born chef and restaurateur Marc Fosh’s contribution to the vibrant gastronomic scene in Mallorca cannot be overstated. More than half-a-dozen young chefs who have worked under his tutelage have subsequently opened their own successful restaurants on the island. His teaching and mentoring skills can be in no doubt.
I first discovered Marc’s food when he ran the kitchen at the former Bacchus restaurant, at what used to be Reads Hotel. It became our go-to place for a Michelin-starred dinner and overnight stay for special celebrations. After Marc left Bacchus in 2009 to open his own restaurant in Palma de Mallorca, the hotel was never the same for us.
The only British chef in Spain at a Michelin-starred restaurant
Marc Fosh restaurant in Palma is one of two Michelin-starred restaurants in Mallorca’s capital; the other is owned by chef Adrián Quetglas (who coincidentally used to work for Marc). Fosh is still the only British chef in Spain leading a Michelin-starred kitchen. He also has a catering company (Fosh Catering) and a farm (yes, Fosh Farm) cultivating some of the produce for his kitchens.
This modest chef has now added published author to his talents: His first cookbook (in English) has been launched in Spain and has its UK launch on July 9th. Entitled Modern Mediterranean – Sun-drenched recipes from Mallorca and beyond, the book reads like a love letter to the produce and food producers of Marc’s adopted island.
Marc Fosh restaurant recently hosted a book signing, combined with a tasting of wines from 3.10 Celler.
On sale at Marc Fosh restaurant
Marc Fosh signs copies of his book
Marc Fosh with Reg Ward from Selva Vins
Adrian Quetglas and his wife
Nacho Cordero and his partner from 3.10 CellerIn his book, Marc shares recipes for eighteen of his favourite ingredients, which include almonds, lamb, lemons, olive oil, saffron, tomatoes, and chocolate. Each key ingredient has its own chapter of recipes, preceded by an informative introduction. The book is crammed with gorgeous photos by the multi-award-winning Palma-based photographer Nando Esteva. The publishers originally wanted to use a UK-based stylist and photographer but Marc insisted on using Nando – who has worked with Marc for many years.
Putting recipes to the test
When my review copy arrived from the London publishers, I invited two people – a professional cook and a reluctant cook – to choose and try one of his recipes and review it for my radio show Table Talk (edition 60) on Mallorca Sunshine Radio; (click the link to hear their reviews).
My professional tester Sandra van Oorschot is the cooking half of the business Captain Cook Culinary Sailing Tours. Sandra made and loved Marc’s Mediterranean Spiced Lamb Stew with Apricots and Coriander. This friendly Dutch woman is an excellent cook and if you love good home-cooked food (and well-chosen Mallorcan wines) and would like to combine it with a sailing trip, offering a different perspective of Mallorca, I can highly recommend a trip out with Captain Cook (which, unlike some other charters operating in Balearic waters, is fully legal and therefore suitably insured).
After browsing through the review copy I received from the London publishers, The Boss was so enthused by the book that he offered to cook Pomegranate-marinated Leg of Lamb. This was Quite Something, as he is a reluctant cook – unless a BBQ is involved. He followed the instructions carefully but, instead of cooking the lamb in the oven, he chose to adapt the heat settings and timing for our Weber BBQ. Fingers were crossed (by both of us), but I’m pleased to report that the dish was delicious and is now in The Boss’s outdoor-cooking repertoire. Thank you, Marc!
Unlike some Michelin-starred cuisine, Marc Fosh’s is based on simplicity. His techniques bring out the flavour of the prime ingredients he uses. His recipes seem accurate and the instructions easy to follow. Now I just need to work a bit on my plating skills…
Modern Mediterranean – Sun-drenched recipes from Mallorca and beyond (Nourish) is available to buy at Marc Fosh restaurant in Palma (25€), from Amazon, and other outlets on Mallorca. In the UK, the book will be on sale from July 9th for £20.
Jan Edwards ©2019
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Where to Find Organic Raw Chocolate in Mallorca
“There is nothing better than a friend, unless it is a friend with chocolate.” If that friend comes with good-quality chocolate, so much the better!
In recent years we’ve become more discerning when it comes to buying chocolate here in Mallorca and rarely buy anything made from less than 70 per cent cocoa solids. My favourite chocolate available on the island is even healthier: organic raw (and vegan) chocolate, lovingly made from bean to bar by master chocolatier Tino Wolter at Cachao in Palma de Mallorca.
Tino Wolter is the master chocolatier behind Cacaho
The story behind Cachao
Tino is a clear-skinned, healthy-looking young German who began his career as a chef in Berlin, in 2000. He worked his way up to become a chef de partie in patisserie, which increasingly involved working with chocolate. When Christine Leja, owner of the stylish group of businesses known as bconnected in Palma de Mallorca, wanted to develop a business making and selling organic raw chocolate, she asked Tino to run it. It took him more than a year to perfect the recipe and some six years for the business known as Cachao to come to fruition. As well as the recipe, Tino had to obtain all the equipment and apply for the various licences necessary.
Sourcing the beans was an important part of the process: they had to be cultivated in a sustainable and organic way and come from farmers who supply a co-operative known as Big Tree Farms in Bali. The hand-peeled beans are not roasted, to retain the raw-food antioxidants, and are simply dried and fermented.
The process
The first step in making Cachao’s chocolate is grinding the beans, in a machine that churns the beans to paste over a four-day period. This machine lives in the back room of the premises and Tino calls it his ‘animal’, because it needs a lot of attention. “I had sleepless nights at the beginning, worrying in case it stopped working,” he admits.
After four days, Tino has to temper, flavour (where appropriate), and package the chocolate. He does all this on his own: “It’s a very young business,” he explains. “I’m alone and do everything from opening the shop to producing the chocolate, to packaging and selling it.” He works long hours and I sense that he’d like to share some of his working life with a colleague, but his passion for what he does drives him. The chance of some brief conversation is one reason he likes people to come into the shop to look around and taste some samples.
Bean busy . . .
Cacao beans from sustainable farms in Bali
Attractive packaging too made from recycled paper.
Pass me a spoon!Some of Tino’s chocolate is flavoured with local Mallorcan products. He has a supplier in Sóller for oranges and one in Porreres for apricots. Flor de Sal (from the south of Mallorca) is another flavouring ingredient. All his chocolate contains 71 per cent cocoa solids, except one at 54 per cent (sweetened with coconut sugar and nectar) and a cacao purist’s treat at 100 per cent.
“It was important for us to know about the ingredients we use,” Tino explains. “The same applied to the packaging.” The wrappings and boxes are made from recycled paper and the stylish design by a friend complements the high-quality product. “It’s what we call the holistic way: knowing who is doing what, and how.”
Cachao’s products
In addition to chocolate bars and boxes of chocolate thins, Tino has expanded the range to include products such as chocolate-covered almonds and chocolate-covered coffee beans (sourced from the company Mistral, which roasts organic beans in the heart of Palma de Mallorca). There’s also a distilled product made in conjunction with the award-winning Mallorcan company Gin Eva in Llucmajor.
Of course, you’ll pay more for Cachao’s artisan organic raw chocolate than you would for the commercially produced stuff. But what you get is a guilt-free nutritionally dense product that’s incredibly satisfying and delicious. It’s a grown-up gourmet treat that shouldn’t be missed if you visit Palma de Mallorca.
Tino points out the chocolate bars
More of Tino’s creations at Cachao on displayCachao’s premises are in Palma de Mallorca’s Santa Catalina’s district, facing the indoor market. It’s an attractive place with the shop at the front dedicated to sales (and samplings) of the various products. Don’t be shy! Tino will give you a warm welcome and is happy to explain the process involved in his bean-to-bar creations.
The cacao or cocoa tree is officially known as Theobroma Cacao: Theobroma being derived from the Greek for ‘food of the gods’. Why should we mere mortals miss out on such a divine product as Cachao?
Cachao
Plaza Navegació 14
Santa Catalina
Palma de Mallorca
Order your chocolate online here.
Jan Edwards©2019
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Charlie’s Kitchen Pop-up Dinner Delights Again
Max (left) and Piers (right) assembling the BLT dish
Piers Dawson (right) and his sous chef Max Campbell putting finishing touches to dishes. Holly is pictured in the background
Simple but effective table decoration by HollySóller-based Piers Dawson is the chef behind Charlie’s Kitchen pop-up dining events. Piers, his charming wife Holly, and infant Charlie (the inspiration for the pop-up’s name) moved from London to Mallorca in 2015. Piers had travelled the world, cooking for everyone from presidents to prime ministers to pop stars, in his twelve years with the London-based catering company Alison Price.
Charlie’s arrival was a catalyst for change: the couple wanted to spend as much time as possible with their little boy. They moved to Mallorca and based themselves in Sóller, where Piers’s mother lives, to begin new cooking adventures on the island.
Since then, Piers has established himself here as a private chef, but he’s still in demand for occasional international work. Over the last winter he toured Asia for 12 days, cooking for an “amazingly talented young American singer/songwriter”. Piers (using discretion where clients are concerned) wouldn’t reveal the singer’s name, but the tour took in seven cities, including Taipei, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, and Singapore.
Another Charlie’s Kitchen
Even if hiring a private chef is the stuff of dreams (it is for me), it’s possible to enjoy Piers’s innovative cuisine at one of his Charlie’s Kitchen pop-up dinners. Until now, they’ve been held during the quieter winter months, but Piers told me recently that they may be monthly this year.
The latest Charlie’s Kitchen event was the fourth I’d attended. That’s how much I enjoy these dinners in the Sóller valley – to which it takes us just over an hour to drive from home. Piers’s amazing food, Holly’s warm hospitality, and the convivial nature of these intimate dinners make the journey worthwhile.
Our latest Charlie’s Kitchen menu
Each dish on the menu is simply described on the menu
And this is what they looked like:
Broccoli, Ponzu, Avocado – Piers cleverly used the main broccoli stalk to accommodate these tasty mouthfuls.
A spoonful of salmon, cauliflower, and lime
Oh-so-tender Asian pork belly in crispy pastry, served in a mini steaming basket
Piers’s 5-day sourdough bread, served with his flavoured butter – so savoury and good: billed as Chicken, Umami, and Rye
This BLT was a real talking point at the table
Piers is inspired by the productive gardens of Soller. This is his edible Soller Garden
Merluza (hake), Fuet, Samphire
Pear, Blue Cheese, Walnut – in a glass
Shepherd’s Pie – but not as you know it!
A fabulous finale: Cookies, Banana and CreamPiers came to the dining table as each dish arrived, explaining the thought process that went into it and revealing the culinary brilliance of this amiable chef.
Alternatives to single-use plastics
Two dishes, in particular, sparked a lot of interest: BLT – a crispy baked ham wafer with rocket purée, basil, and olive oil powder, perched on top of a small bottle of tomato-essence consommé flavoured with lots of basil. We drank the latter through a drinking straw made from apple pomace (the pulp left behind after the fruit has been juiced). After we’d finished the consommé, we could eat the straw too!
The next dish was entitled Soller Garden: an edible flowerpot containing baba ganoush (BBQ’d aubergine with parsley, lemon zest, tahini, and roasted garlic), and a soil made from Piers’s own beetroot sourdough: “I dried black olives and blitzed them with olive oil, then sautéed the sourdough crumbs and poured black olive oil slowly through it.” As the bread crisped, it took on the oil’s colour. Piers planted the ‘soil’ with a sesame-seed sourdough wafer, heritage carrots, cornichons, a tiny olive, teardrop pepper, and fresh asparagus. Genius.
Piers told us he had sourced the edible flowerpot and straws as alternatives to single-use plastics. If you want to find out more about these edible and other solutions, check out The Three Straws – based in Port de Sóller.
This latest Charlie’s Kitchen was yet another memorable evening. We look forward to the next one!
Find out more here about Piers Dawson, Private Chef on Mallorca.
You can hear Piers Dawson in conversation with me on ‘Table Talk’ on Mallorca Sunshine Radio – edition 49 – here.
Jan Edwards ©2019
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Review of Botanic Restaurant in Palma de Mallorca
The bar, with its mirrored ceiling, at Can Bordoy Grand House and Garden
Detail in the lounge of Can Bordoy Grand House and Garden
Glittering chandelier. Wouldn’t want to have to clean it though!
Another dining space – perfect for private dining or meetings
Another dining area in the hotel, adjacent to the bar
We ate in the library – of which this is a detailWhen the property developer Mikael Hall bought the 16th-century manor house Can Bordoy in Palma de Mallorca, he could have converted the property into desirable city apartments. Instead, the Swedish businessman decided to turn this neglected house, in the atmospheric La Lonja quarter, into a luxurious 5-star hotel. One of the reasons behind this decision was the property’s outdoor space: it’s the largest private garden in Palma.
“If I’d made it into apartments, this garden would have been lost to the people of Palma forever,” Mikael told me when I interviewed him for ‘Table Talk’ on Mallorca Sunshine Radio some weeks ago. “This garden is unique in the city. I want it to be part of Palma’s life.” Anyone can come into this garden and enjoy a coffee, tea, cold drink, or something to eat. Be warned: you may not want to leave.
The conversion project took several years and presented a number of challenges along the way. Mikael first saw the property in May 2012 and it wasn’t until late last year that Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden was finished and ready to welcome its first guests. The efforts of everyone involved in the development and operation of this stunning hotel have just been rewarded: the 24-suite Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden is included in the ‘Best New Hotels in the World Hot List’ by Conde Nast Traveler magazine.
Chef Andrés Benítez at Botànic
Giovanni Merello and Andres Benitez at the press breakfast I attended in December
The Palma de Mallorca hotel’s restaurant Botànic opened on December 20th, 2018. It was an opening I’d been waiting for since I heard that Andrés Benítez would be the chef. Andrés was previously head chef at Tomeu Caldentey’s Michelin-starred former Bou restaurant in Sa Coma and I’ve been a big fan of his modest personality and his cuisine for several years.
Botànic is open all day to the public. Come for breakfast – at any hour during the daytime – and feast on a tempting choice of dishes, including healthy bowls, a variety of free-range egg dishes, pastries and breads, and what Andrés calls combo dishes. I’ve had (a late) breakfast here on several occasions and have developed a serious weakness for the spelt toast topped with avocado, tomato, and home-made coconut-milk cheese (who knew of such a thing?).
On Sundays, there’s a table brunch with live piano music – which we’ve yet to try. I imagine that sitting in the garden, enjoying the food, a glass of fizz, and the gentle tinkling of the piano would be an idyllic way to spend some time.
Dinner at Botànic
At night Botànic offers healthy fine dining in the form of a monthly changing 7-plate tasting menu. We went last week to try the April menu and had a table in the library, which has an intimate ambience and subtle lighting – making it perfect for romantic dinners. A printed menu gives you an idea of what is to come.
Even before the arrival of the first dish – billed as Can Bordoy snacks – high quality was evident. Our server offered crusty bread from the admirable Forn Pes de sa Palla (the bakery of Amadip Esment, a foundation offering professional training and employment for people with mental disabilities). We had this with Mallorcan flor de sal and Can Bordoy-labelled organic extra virgin olive oil made from arbequina olives by Oli Novembre, which has the Denomination of Origin Oli de Mallorca.
Here are photos of just a few of the seven dishes from the menu we had. Sweet-toothed diners will be pleased to know that there is a pre-dessert as well as dessert!
Healthy bite-sized snacks to start our dinner
Artichokes with cockles and preserved lemon
Peas, herbs, rice – and crunchy squid
The meat course featured just enough beef to appreciate the flavour and textureIn my opinion, the cost of 50€ for the 7-plate tasting menu at Botànic is excellent value, considering the quality of the food, service (Carolina from Colombia, who served us, was a delight), and the unique setting. The food is satisfying but won’t leave you feeling bloated or push your waistband to its limits.
Wine pairing optional…and recommended
If you enjoy wine, do try the optional wine pairing, for an additional 30€. We enjoyed the Italian sommelier Emiliano’s selection and his knowledge and opinions about wine make for interesting and informative snippets of conversation.
We had a different wine with each of the seven dishes – all matched, to our tastes, to perfection. They included: an elegant and crisp biodynamic Riesling (Achillée) from Alsace; Porrera, a white Garnacha from Priorat; an Albariño from Rias Baixas, and Gorgollassa from the organic winery Can Majoral in Mallorca. Our final drops were from a glass of natural sweet rosé from Selva Vins in Mallorca; this surprising wine, made from 100 per cent Merlot grapes and matured in chestnut barrels, was more red than pink and was the result of a ‘happy accident’ in the wine-making process. Thank you, Emiliano, for sharing your passion – and your wine choices.
There is a lot to admire about Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden. Being here is like visiting friends who live in a rather splendid house. Managing director Giovanni Merello is at the helm of a team that feels more like a family, devoted to offering warm hospitality and comfort to all who visit.
I’ve often wondered what it would be like to have a second home in Palma de Mallorca. Now, I think I know…
Jan Edwards ©2019
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Find Your New Guide to Balearic Gastronomy
“Well I think that we are gradually getting closer to San Sebastián.” This was Andrés Benítez’s response when asked how he would rate Palma de Mallorca as a gastronomic destination, in comparison with the famous foodie city. Chef Andrés Benítez is at the helm of the restaurant Botànic at the 5-star Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden in Palma de Mallorca, which opened at the end of 2018.
His comment is just one of the many insights into Balearic chefs, featured in the second annual edition of the magazine Chefs(in) – published in March. It’s a treasure trove of information gleaned as a result of the close relationship between some of the Balearics’ best chefs and the organisation Chefs(in), which promotes Balearic gastronomy.
We were lucky enough to be invited to the launch event for the second edition of Chefs(in) magazine, which took place in the Teatre Municipal Mar i Terra in Palma’s Santa Catalina district.
Manuel Perez, Santi Taura, and his wife
Artist Pepe Miralles, Ca Na Toneta’s Maria Solivellas, and Miquel Gelabert from Can March.
Joan Marc Garcia with his wife
Chefs(in)’s editor Araceli Bosch talks to guests at the launchA reference for Balearic gastronomy
I still have the first (2018) edition of Chefs(in) magazine. It’s more of a reference work to keep, than a magazine to be read and later discarded and I’m delighted now to have the second edition too. In my humble opinion, it’s essential reading for any foodie visiting (or living in) Mallorca or its sister islands Menorca and Ibiza. And the good news is that it is published in both Spanish and English.
Here are some of the highlights of the 2019 edition:
- Interviews with chefs Ariadna Salvador, Iñigo Rodriguez, David Moreno, Cati Pieras, Joan Canals, Miquel Calent, Andrés Benítez, Marga Coll, David de Coca, Miquel Gelabert, Victor García, and well-known charcutier Xesc Reina.
- A feature about 12 of the 65 businesses in Palma officially designated as emblematic by Palma City Council.
- A guide to 43 of the best restaurants in Mallorca, Menorca, and Ibiza. In addition to the individual pages for each restaurant, there’s a quick-to-view guide to more than 30 different aspects about each one – including number of covers, frequency of menu changes, number of languages spoken, WiFi access, whether there’s a terrace, and average prices.
Once again, most of the photography in the second edition of Chefs(in) is by the multi-award-winning Mallorcan photographer Nando Esteva.
Chefs(in) is available in kiosks and newsagents across the islands and through the website http://www.chefsins.com at 10€ per copy.
Jan Edwards©2019
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New Restaurant Apolonia for Can Mostatxins, Alcudia
A painting of the ship that inspired the restaurant’s name
If you’re looking for a boutique hotel in the north of Mallorca, I can personally recommend the British-owned Can Mostatxins in the charming old walled town of Alcúdia. It’s so good, they named it twice (like Sinatra’s New York): since last year there have been two hotels with this name – Can Mostatxins Frare and the original, Can Mostatxins Quinze. If it were not for the lane running between the two handsomely renovated old buildings, they’d be joined at the drainpipe.
New at Can Mostatxins for 2019
The two Can Mostatxins hotels are now open for the 2019 season, with something new to offer: Restaurant Apolonia. This 26-cover restaurant is open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday evenings from 18:00-21:00h (quite early by Spanish standards). Alcúdia isn’t short of eateries, but this addition has a culinary offering with plenty of appeal for foodies.
Restaurant Apolonia has an elegant but simple décor, with linen-covered tables, attractive lighting and, on the main wall, a specially commissioned painting of the old sailing ship Apolonia, which was once the pride of the family who used to own the building. The pleasant background piano music when we ate there was unobtrusive and relaxing. It’s worth taking a peek at the floor in one particular area of the restaurant to see something surprising. I’ll say no more and let you discover this for yourself!
What does Restaurant Apolonia offer?
Apolonia offers two weekly changing tasting menus – one of which is vegetarian; there’s no à la carte. The menu is available in both six- and four-course versions and is priced between 36€ and 48€ per diner. An optional wine pairing is available for 20€ per person and includes a dessert wine or sherry. We had the six-course version.
The Mediterranean cuisine is the creation of a young female chef from Asturias, Cristina López, whose previous experience of working in Michelin-star restaurants shows. “I love to cook and work with seasonal products,” Cristina told me. We loved eating the results.
This is the pictorial version of the menu we enjoyed during our visit to Restaurant Apolonia:
We started with this tasty vegetable vermouth, which was accompanied by a tempura olive (so good we could have eaten a few of these!)
Such a vibrant dish and bursting with flavour: slow-cooked tomato salad with goat’s cheese and anchovies
Mushroom ragout with potato foam and truffled yolk. I had mine without the yolk – not being much of an egg fan. The Boss enjoyed the full dish.
Caramelized salmon with Thai noodles – delicious combiantion of textures and flavours
Iberian pork fillet with Mallorcan sauce
Coffee cream with chocolate stones and Kahlua
Petits fours – silky, chocolatey, and downright delishIf you’re not staying as a guest in the hotel, you can eat here only with a prior reservation, made by phoning reception at Can Mostatxins; Restaurant Apolonia does not take walk-in diners. My recommendation would be to treat yourself and book one of the 19 rooms available between Can Mostatxins Frare and Can Mostatxins Quinze so that you can take advantage of the choice of good-quality Mallorcan wines with your dinner.
Until the end of March 2019, book a stay at Can Mostatxins through Mallorcan Tonic and you’ll get a discount of 20% on accommodation.
Jan Edwards©2019
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Review of New-look Son Vida Spa
It’s easy to be impressed by the 5-star Castillo Hotel Son Vida in Palma de Mallorca: its imposing castle tower, huge terrace with spectacular elevated views across Palma to the bay, and stately interior have appealed to visitors to Mallorca since 1961, when the property first opened as a luxury hotel. Many famous people have stayed here, including Prince Rainier of Monaco and Grace Kelly, Aristotle Onassis, Maria Callas, Anthony Quinn, Pedro Almodóvar, and Claudia Schiffer.
Although I’ve not stayed overnight at the Castillo Hotel Son Vida, I’ve been to several lunch or dinner functions at the prestigious hotel at the heart of the Son Vida estate – which is dotted with architect-designed villas and look-at-me mansions. I’d also had a relaxing spa day at the hotel two years ago with a girlfriend; we went on a weekday and had the place almost to ourselves.
Easy parking, easy access
The Son Vida Spa was renovated late last year and I was curious to see the new-look version, so The Boss and I went this week to check the place out. Our first surprise was finding that the hotel has added a separate car park for spa users. Park your car, take the lift or the steps up, and you arrive up right at the spa entrance. No need to walk through the hotel itself. Check in at the spa desk and you’re off to the changing rooms armed with locker key and disposable flip-flops. The locker contains a generous sized robe for use while you’re here. Piles of fresh fluffy towels are everywhere. No need to sit wrapped in a damp towel here!
Only the indoor pool area remains unchanged. It overlooks the wooded hills of Son Vida and, on a sunny day, it’s a glorious place to swim, poach yourself (in the Jacuzzi), and relax on the thick-cushioned poolside loungers. Everything else within the spa has been renovated.
Facilities include a gym (open 24 hours a day!), where 14 state-of-the-art Techno Gym machines await the serious exerciser. The new wet area has a Finnish sauna, bio sauna, and steam room, with ice fountain and the appropriately named adventure showers for the necessary cooling off afterwards. In the anteroom to the wet area, you can help yourself to fruit and flavoured water at no additional cost.
Through another wooden door and you’re in the relaxation area, where more loungers are available for those who prefer a quieter environment.
Invitation to swim
Jacuzzi at Son Vida Spa
Quiet space for relaxation at Son Vida Spa
Detail at Son Vida SpaTailored treatments
The beauty therapy rooms at Castillo Hotel Son Vida used to be in another part of the hotel but the spa renovation has brought the facilities together. The upper floor of the Son Vida Spa is home to the beauty and therapy reception area, changing rooms, and four (two single, two double) light-filled treatment rooms, with good views. This floor also has a door into the hotel itself.
Beauty therapy reception area Son Vida Spa. Photo courtesy of hotel
Double treatment cabin at Son Vida Spa. Photo courtesy of hotel
All smiles from Maria the therapistTherapist Maria showed me to one of these rooms for my pre-arranged facial – a treat while The Boss was lounging and reading by the pool. Son Vida Spa uses two product ranges: Maria Galland of Paris – based on pure essences – and Demarés. The latter is a Mallorcan brand, with products made from natural ingredients – and no nasties.
My Mosaic Modelling Treatment lasted 80 minutes. Eighty of the most relaxing minutes I’d had for a very long time. Maria has worked as a beauty therapist at the hotel for 12 years and is a great asset here. Had she ever treated any celebrities? I asked, imagining her working her magic on Hugh Laurie when he was staying here during the filming of The Night Manager. The rich and famous have nothing to worry about here: Maria wouldn’t even mention any names, let alone share any famous folk’s foibles. She could probably be trusted with state secrets…
The Mosaic Modelling Treatment is personalised for each client by the therapist, who selects the most beneficial essences to use with the various potions and lotions. These jewel-coloured essences are from caviar, black orchid, malachite, white truffle, silver, gold, and hyaluronate (no, I hadn’t heard of that either). At one point, Maria applied a mask of clay, which self-heated as it hardened on my face. It made conversation a little difficult but felt strangely pleasant. By the time Maria had finished, my skin felt dewy, soft, and smooth. I’d go as far as to say that this was probably the best facial I’ve had on Mallorca: a comfortable environment, experienced and friendly therapist, and a divine treatment that made a positive difference to the feel and look of my skin.
What does it cost to use the Son Vida Spa?
If you’re an official resident of the Balearics, you can take advantage of special day-spa rates – which are published on this website. If you’re not resident, a day pass costs 65€ (at time of writing). Son Vida Spa at Mallorca’s Castillo Hotel Son Vida also offers spa membership for 115€ a month (no registration fee).
Jan Edwards ©2019
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Review of Vandal Restaurant in Palma de Mallorca
Walk past the Palma de Mallorca restaurant Vandal during the daytime and you could be forgiven for thinking that this corner building – with a rather unexciting exterior in daylight – could be a nightclub. Come at night and it’s a different story. I’d wanted to try this Santa Catalina restaurant since it opened in 2017, but somehow we didn’t make it.
Back in February this year, I attended the Associació de Periodistes i Escriptors Gastronomics de Balears‘ annual awards ceremony and Vandal was awarded the title of 2017’s ‘Revelation restaurant’. I made a mental note that we really should try this restaurant.
OK, it took longer than expected, but we – in the company of some foodie friends – finally made it to Vandal recently. In the meantime, The Boss and I had had the opportunity to taste some of executive chef Bernabé Caravotta’s food as he was one of two guest chefs cooking at Ponderosa Beach’s Chefs’ Day, which ended their 2018 season in October. Resolve had been further strengthened by that particular culinary experience.
Influenced by world travel
Vandal is the product of its two creative owners’ international careers and offers one of Palma’s most diverse and innovative menus. Executive chef Bernabé Caravotta worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in France and Denmark – Mirazur and with René Redzepi at the renowned Noma, respectively – and at the Blue Elephant Thai cooking school in Thailand, before moving to Mallorca in 2007.
Bernabé’s restaurant partner Sebastián Pérez is the sommelier and restaurant director. Sebastián also worked in several notable restaurants, including some in New York, before coming to Mallorca in 2002. Little wonder that the menu at Vandal is influenced by their global travel and experiences.
Industrial vibe at Vandal Palma de Mallorca
Part of the bar area at Vandal
Chef and co-owner of Vandal, Bernabe CaravottaVandal’s décor has an industrial vibe: the design even incorporates some corrugated iron on the walls. Stools at the green-tiled bar counter are ideal for a drink before eating and the semi-open kitchen allows you to see the chefs at work.
Temptations galore…
The menu card layout looks a bit bewildering at first sight because its design is also innovative. As well as the name of each dish, it shows the country of origin and what tools you’ll need to eat it (hand, fork, or fork and spoon). A suggested drink pairing is also shown for each dish but there’s also a good wine list which, like the cuisine, features international influences. The helpful serving staff are on hand with advice and explanations if needed. Our server was particularly patient: we hadn’t seen our friends for a while and had some conversational catching-up to do, which initially distracted us from the important business of perusing the menu.
What Vandal is all about
We all ordered different dishes (some are shown above – but not captioned, because I don’t want to spoil any surprises) and there was some sharing. I’d recommend doing this as it’s hard to choose with so many temptations on offer – and some dish sizes are not huge. My personal food favourites were the ceviche cornet with coconut foam, the flavourful roasted chicken croquettes with curried apple purée, and the dish named ‘When suckling pig meets curry’. Save room for one of the desserts too: mine was named ‘Childhood feelings’ and the menu informed me this was to be eaten by hand. Not only were the flavours of all the dishes exciting, but the presentation also added visual appeal.
I love that Vandal is different to other restaurants in Palma and apparently so do plenty of other people.The restaurant booking website El Tenedor has named its 100 best restaurants in Spain – based on the opinions of its users, concerning the food, service and ambience of the restaurants. Seven restaurants in Mallorca made it onto the list and, yes, Vandal was one of them. Needless to say, if you want to eat dinner at Vandal (open daily from 19:30h), you do need to book in advance.
Jan Edwards ©2019
Eat Drink Sleep Mallorca 