Learning to Make Sushi on Mallorca

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Eat / Food

I lost my sushi virginity right here on Mallorca, when I went to review Coast by east restaurant for abcMallorca magazine (August 2012). I’d always been slightly nervous about eating raw fish but, sushi being an important part of the food offering at this waterside place in Port Adriano, it had to be tried. Thomas Baar, who was taking the photos, gave me a useful intro to the world of sushi. I tried. I liked. A lot.

Mallorca offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy sushi; even Manacor, our nearest town, now has a couple of sushi places – as yet untried. They’re on the list. So many places; so little time (and money!).

When The Boss and I visit Palma we often go for sushi in one of the two main markets. Our favourite in Mercat Olivar is Yosushi, owned by German chef Thomas Wilden; in Santa Catalina market you’ll find us perched on the high stools (once I can get up onto one!) at the counter of Arume – where we enjoy watching our order being made for us.

Turning Japanese

A day after our last sushi lunch excursion I heard about an imminent sushi-making workshop being offered by Delicioso – a catering and provisioning business in Santa Ponsa, in the southwest of Mallorca – and signed up immediately to take part. I’d already been planning to have a go at making sushi at home and, over the course of several weeks, had been buying the Japanese store cupboard ingredients I’d need.

The four-hour workshop was held last Wednesday and, because there were only three of us participating, was held at the home of Sofia Warsaeus – the Swedish yacht chef who was going to teach us the art of making sushi – rather than in the large pro kitchen at Delicioso.  Emily – a yacht chef – and Jade – a budding yacht stewardess – were my fellow ‘students’.

Getting sticky with it

As we sipped Japanese green tea, Sofia briefly talked through the notes that she’d prepared for us to take home, which included recipes for sauces, instructions for making perfect sushi rice, and other useful information. Then it was off to the kitchen to prepare some rice, cut some fish (on this occasion we tackled loin of tuna and a superb piece of salmon), and prepare some vegetables. Sofia knows a lot about sushi preparation and had learnt some useful skills and tips from a master sushi maker, during a month-long stay in Japan. I felt we were getting some good insider information.

Preparation of all the ingredients completed, we learnt how to use a bamboo mat to roll the sushi, and each prepared maki, nigiri, sashimi, inside-out rolls, and rainbow rolls. The workshop was very hands-on and all three of us had plenty of practice at rolling, under the watchful eye of our tutor. On the occasion I forgot to wet my hands in the bowl of water we’d each been given, I ended up with more rice on me than on the nori sheet. I’m sure Sofia will have found bits of sushi rice all over her kitchen after we’d left . . .

What’s Japanese for bon profit?

Once we’d prepared everything, it was time to cut the rolls and present them on platters, with the benefit of some of Sofia’s shared professional presentation tips. With our combined handiwork artistically displayed and decorated, we took our platters to the dining table, where we had a sushi supper together, accompanied by a cup of hot sake.

Last night I put my sushi-making skills to the test at home and I’m pleased to report I got a thumbs-up from The Boss. My rolling skills require some refinement, but I’m sure this will come with more practice.  Saturday nights at home could become  regular sushi nights at our finca . . .

Sofia demonstrates her knife skills

Sofia demonstrates her knife skills

Ready for the table

Ready for the table

Seared tuna - makes a good starter

Seared tuna – makes a good starter

Rainbow rolls

Rainbow rolls

You can also learn the art of sushi-making with other chefs on Mallorca:

Ross Hutchison

Nathalie Lapping

If you’re based on Mallorca, offer professional sushi instruction and haven’t been mentioned here, please feel free to add your details to the comments section.

©Jan Edwards 2013

Time for Tapas

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Eat / Food / tapas

It was a short break in Seville in 2011 that got me hooked on tapas, although I’d enjoyed these small morsels of deliciousness before then. We spent several nights in the city and didn’t have one sit-down dinner; we enjoyed the relaxed feel of eating our tapas at the bar, ordering more when we felt like it, then heading somewhere else for something different. I like the concept of going from place to place (I kid myself that the little bit of exercise involved in walking between bars helps counter the fact that some tapas are fried and therefore a little heavy on calories).

A tapas route in Manacor

Here on Mallorca, it seems to me that tapas have become more important over the past few years. Our local town, Manacor – like several towns on the island – offers an autumn season tapas trail. Manacor’s is known as ‘Ruta 44’ (there were 44 bars taking part in the first one in 2011) and happens on a Thursday evening.

We tried two bars that we hadn’t visited before and will certainly return to the first. Our four montaditos and two glasses – or more accurately, plastic cups – of tinto cost us just six euros. Not surprisingly, the place was packed. We’ll be back to try some of the others bars’ tapas on a future Thursday. Perhaps we’ll find something that isn’t a montadito!

Gourmet tapas in Inca

This Sunday we’re guaranteed to enjoy some creative tapas: seven of the best chefs from the Inca area are offering something called ‘Peccata Minuta’ – a gourmet tapas event organized by Chefsins, taking place in the Santo Domingo cloister in Inca, from 12:00-16:00hrs. Joan Marc, Tomeu Torrens, Marga Coll, Maria Solivellas, Santi Taura, Cati Pieras and Andreu Genestra will be offering savoury and sweet tapas, created for the occasion. I’m a big fan of Cati Pieras (who, with her partner David, runsDaiCa in Llubí) and am looking forward to her brocheta de pulpo pequeño balear con tocino y vinagreta de piñones con aceite de trufa. I also hope that she’ll bring some of the delicious sourdough bread they serve in the restaurant. Tapas and drinks (artisan beers from Beer Lovers Mallorca and wines from Son Bordils) will cost 2,50 euros each. I’ll be breaking open the piggy bank . . .

Palma’s annual tapas trail

And Palma’s biggest tapas event takes place next week. TaPalma 2013 will have 25 participating bars and restaurants, all offering special tapas for the occasion. You can find out who’s taking part and what they’re offering on www.tapalma.es. This year all venues are offering two special tapas – and an additional one based on Mallorca’s famous Quely biscuit; you’ll be able to vote for your favourite and go into a draw to win some nice prizes:  free weekend away in a hotel on Mallorca, anyone?

Essencia Art is offering 'Ali Baba y los 40 sabores' for TaPalma 2013. Photo courtesy of Associació Restauració de Mallorca

Essencia Art is offering ‘Ali Baba y los 40 sabores’ for TaPalma 2013. Photo courtesy of Associació Restauració de Mallorca

©Jan Edwards

Where Does Chef Marc Fosh Eat Out on Mallorca?

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Chefs / Eat / Food / Michelin / Restaurants / Wine

If you don’t know the name Marc Fosh, you probably don’t live on Mallorca. He’s still the only British chef in Spain to have been awarded a Michelin star for his cuisine (when he was employed at a country house hotel on the island). He left several years ago to start his own business in Palma.

Chef Marc Fosh

Marc Fosh on the terrace of his restaurant in Palma, Mallorca.

In our early days of living on Mallorca, we stayed several times at Reads Hotel & Spa, where Marc used to create the delicious innovative cuisine that clearly impressed the Michelin Guide inspectors. Being quite a foodie, it’s probably fair to say that Marc’s food, served in what was then called Bacchus restaurant, was the prime reason I liked to stay there.

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The ultimate restaurant guide

Earlier this year I was delighted to learn that Marc had been chosen as one of more than 400 chefs around the world to be included in a book called Where Chefs Eat, published by Phaidon. I’d ordered the book (directly from the publisher) because it sounded like a very interesting concept and I’d liked their description of it as ‘the ultimate restaurant guide chosen by the real experts: more than 400 of the world’s best chefs from Heston Blumenthal to René Redzepi and David Chang.’ The book was compiled (and what a lot of work it must have been) by Joe Warwick, food writer and co-founder of The World’s Best 50 Restaurants awards.

This wasn’t going to be a particularly useful book for us as we rarely travel off Mallorca: we have an old finca to maintain which gobbles up the money we would probably otherwise spend on travelling.

In fact, the book I ordered did more travelling to reach me than I’ve done for years. It arrived several times in Palma, only to be sent back to the publishers as undeliverable. It also made a couple of visits to Birmingham in England (a city not featured in the guide) on its circuitous journey to me. Long story short, it finally arrived after a series of emails and phone calls – and several months.

So where does Marc Fosh like to eat on Mallorca? According to Where Chefs Eat:

  • Ca Na Toneta
  • El Bungalow
  • Fibonacci (NOW CLOSED 2021 UPDATE)
  • Zaranda (with one Michelin star). Note: For 2016 and 2017, Zaranda has had 2 Michelin stars. (NEW LOCATION IN PALMA 2021 UPDATE)

©Jan Edwards 2013