-
Mallorca’s Michelin-Starred Restaurant Scene in 2020
With tourism in Mallorca facing an uncertain summer, it’s perhaps not surprising that some of the island’s eight Michelin-starred restaurants won’t open this season. The seasonal nature of these particular high-end restaurants is a challenge, when Covid-19 has delayed the start of the 2020 season.
Zaranda
Mallorca’s only two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Zaranda, has left its former home in the 5-star hotel Castell Son Claret in Es Capdellà. Chef/proprietor Fernando Perez Arellano told me, ‘We will be back.’
I imagine madrileño Fernando is looking for premises in Palma de Mallorca, where there’s more likelihood of staying open all (or most of) the year.
Es Fum
Another hotel Michelin-starred restaurant—the elegant Es Fum—won’t be firing up its stoves this season. Its home is the 5-star St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort in the southwest of the island. Guests at the hotel won’t go hungry though: the hotel’s Aqua Restaurant is open and light snacks are also available in the Sa Badia pool bar and smart Es Vent bar.
Marc Fosh
Chef Marc Fosh talking to Reg Ward from Selva Vins at the chef’s cookbook launch
Marc Fosh—the only British chef in Spain with a Michelin-starred restaurant—has not yet announced the reopening of his Palma restaurant bearing his name. Its home is the boutique hotel Convent de la Missió, which looks set to reopen at the end of July. In the meantime, Marc is applying his culinary genius to the cuisine at Plata de Mar hotel in Canyamel—which, like Convent de la Missió—is part of the Torre de Canyamel Group. Read about Marc’s first cookbook, Modern Mediterranean, here.
Adrián Quetglas
Meanwhile, Michelin-starred cuisine in Palma is on offer at Adrián Quetglas Restaurant, which is open again for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. According to booking site El Tenedor, this is one of the restaurants currently receiving the most bookings. Book early!
Maca de Castro
Maca de Castro’s eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant in Port d’Alcúdia is not opening either this season. Maca has taken her team to Palma de Mallorca to open Andana, a restaurant where she creates delicious—and affordable—mallorquín cuisine, using vegetables grown on her own land in Sa Pobla. You’ll be able to read more about Andana in a future post; Maca intends to open her restaurant in the north of the island again next season.
Andreu Genestra
In the northeast of Mallorca, Restaurante Andreu Genestra, near Capdepera, opens again today, July 10th; find it within the Predi Son Jaumell rural hotel.
Voro by Álvaro Salazar
And, in Canyamel (also in the northeast), Voro by Álvaro Salazar at the Park Hyatt Mallorca, opens again on July 16th.
Es Racó d’es Teix
The view from the terrace at Es Raco d’es Teix in Deia
Rustic charm
Exterior detail
One of our lunch dishes
I chose delicious cheeses rather than a sweet dessertEs Racó d’es Teix in the mountain village of Deià was the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Mallorca to reopen after Spain’s lockdown ended. For our first lunch after the long confinement, we chose this beautiful family-run restaurant. Highly recommended.
Jan Edwards ©2020
-
Master of Japanese Cuisine at Mallorca’s Kairiku Restaurant
The original version of this post about Kairiku was published in September 2019 and has now been republished, reflecting changes applicable from July 2020.
Have you ever had an omakase experience? If you’re a fan of Japanese cuisine—or have been fortunate enough to visit Japan (I know I’d love to)—you probably know that omakase translates as ‘entrust’; in this case, it means you don’t know what the restaurant’s chef will serve you, but trust that it will be good.
Japanese Restaurant in Campos? Yes!
See this and you’ve found Kairiku
The cuisine at Kairiku—Mallorca’s only omakase restaurant—was delicious when I visited this intimate cellar restaurant in Campos (within Sa Creu Nova Petit Palais Art & Spa) in May 2018. Since then, things have moved to another level, thanks to the arrival of Ryuichiro Katano, who’s a Master of Japanese Cuisine. I noted greater precision in the preparation and presentation of dishes and an almost-tangible passion emanating from the open kitchen.
About Ryuichiro Katano
Ryu is a venerable Japanese culinary master, with a long family tradition in the catering industry. He’s originally from Otaru, the northern coastal city and port that’s been called ‘the Venice of Japan’. He began working in Kaiseki, his grandfather’s restaurant, at a young age and trained further in different restaurants in Japan to develop his skills.
Ryu arrived in Spain at the age of 46 and has since been Master of Japanese Cuisine in various restaurants, including Shibui and Fishshop. He’s an earnest-looking chef, with excellent knife skills honed over the decades.
The Master’s cuisine is technical, simple, and traditional—but at the same time innovative and creative, based on high-quality raw ingredients.
About Kairiku
Kairiku is one of two restaurants within the 5-star Sa Creu Nova Petit Palais Art & Spa in the centre of Campos. A small flight of stairs leads down to Kairiku’s intimate cellar restaurant, which has stylish understated Japanese décor. (Guests with mobility issues may find access difficult.)
Only ten diners are accommodated at one long table, but you don’t have to go as a party of ten. Whether you go on your own or with one or more people, you all eat at the same time (starting at 20:30h) and no doubt share conversation about the food and sakes—as we did with the Mallorcans who were dining there on the same evening.
As an omakase restaurant, Kairiku has no printed menu, and the table setting is minimalist.
In the open kitchen, we watched Ryu assembling the dishes; each one was met by exclamations of surprise and approval—and phone cameras were pressed into action. Below are some of my own photos from our 2019 dinner.
Kairiku’s sake selection
Lining up the sakes!Sakes on the Side?
In 2019, Ryu Katano’s exquisite cuisine was paired with a variety of sakes but, for 2020, Kairiku’s diners have a choice whether or not to have the sake pairing. I think this is a good decision; not everyone appreciates sake and, for motorists, paying for alcoholic beverages you can’t drink because you’re driving, is a bit of a turn-off.
The omakase dinner costs 80€ this year, including tax, but excluding drinks.
If you’re a fan of Japanese cuisine and visiting (or living in) Mallorca, I can recommend restaurant Kairiku as a different, interesting, and informative eating-out experience. Who would have expected to find a Japanese restaurant of such sophistication in the agricultural town of Campos?
Price correct at time of writing.
Open: Wednesday to Sunday, with one sitting at 20:30h.
Jan Edwards ©2019/updated 2020
-
Vacation Villas near Mallorca’s Banyalbufar
Pool at Sa Terra Rotja villa, Son Bunyola
Mallorca opens to international tourists again from June 21st, when Spain’s state of alarm finally ends.
The island is desperate to see tourists back, but – after the lockdown – what part will travel anxiety play in making holiday decisions? My feeling is that rural hotels and private villas will have even greater appeal this summer.
In a discussion I had last week with a real estate expert, I heard that there’s been a surge in demand (particularly in the German market) for luxury villas to rent for holidays. And I mean luxury, as in large with plenty of open space around them; that’s one way to ensure physical distancing during your vacation.
Villas Near Banyalbufar
Mallorca has no shortage of fabulous villas to rent for holidays and, although I’ve never stayed in one, I did have a good look around the Son Bunyola estate, near Banyalbufar, in the spring of 2018. I was in the company of Insider Mallorca and their invited fam-trip guests – a small group of high-end travel consultants (lucky women) – who were staying there for a few days and had come from as far away as Australia.
Son Bunyola is a beautiful 700-acre private estate in the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tramuntana mountains and, if it’s space around you that you want, the location of these villas would be hard to beat.
I first wrote about them here and, when I visited in 2018, I recorded some interviews for my radio show Table Talk on Mallorca Sunshine Radio. You can hear the interviews in Edition 4 of the show’s podcasts here.
Safety & Well-being
Son Bunyola is owned by Sir Richard Branson and will be the first property in the Virgin Limited Edition portfolio to reopen, from July 4th. There are now three secluded villas on the estate, from which to choose.
Speaking about the all-important safety and well-being aspects, Virgin Limited Edition’s managing director Jon Brown said: ‘Guests can expect to see some slight changes across all of our properties as we ask our staff to wear masks, take daily temperature checks and carry out rigorous cleaning measures, whilst ensuring that in our restaurants and guest areas we are adhering to social distancing guidelines.
‘But what’s more important, is that we make these new processes entirely simple and flexible for the guest, depending on their own level of comfort and preferences. Whether that is daily housekeeping with the same member of staff, or no housekeeping at all, we remain completely fluid to how our new processes will work.’
A Choice of Three Villas
The Son Bunyola villas can be rented individually or together, on a self-catering or all-inclusive basis, making them the perfect choice for groups and families to enjoy not only the secluded and beautiful setting, but also the security of a holiday with minimal risk of exposure – without compromising on the typical luxuries and experience guests would expect.
Rates for the four-bedroom Son Balaguaret villa, accommodating up to eight adults, start from 16,100€ for a seven-night self-catering stay during July and August 2020. Shorter stays of 3, 4 and 5 nights are also available on request (outside of July and August) subject to availability.
Time for a villa share with a few friends or family for a luxurious stay in Mallorca?
Jan Edwards ©2020
-
Buy a Cookbook to Support Chefs in Mallorca
Home-made pizza
Cooking is one of the things that is (almost) maintaining my sanity during the lockdown in Mallorca. Like many people, I’ve been doing more baking than usual (mainly biscuits, bread, and pizza dough) and trying out new recipes, whilst there is more time to dedicate to kitchen activity. It’s a way to fill time, as well as tummies.
Growing up, I don’t remember my mum ever showing me how to cook anything. I always feel a little envious when chef friends say their first cooking experience was with their mother or grandmother.
Once I’d left home, I started buying cookbooks. And I haven’t stopped since. Over the years, I’ve had the occasional cull: an emotionally painful but necessary space-creating action to enable me to add new books to the collection. (Though I’ll never say goodbye to any books by Delia).
Google v Cookbook
Of course, I flirt with using recipes found on the Internet; it’s usually quicker to do a Google search than scan through the indexes of cookbooks. Mainly because once I open a cookbook, I’m likely to lose myself in its pages, admiring the photography and making mental lists of ingredients to buy for future meals. Oops! Is it that time already? But my gripe is that many online recipes have not been tested for reliability. You really can’t beat a book full of properly tested recipes.
If you’re in the market for a new cookbook, may I suggest the following? Each is linked to a business in Mallorca that’s been impacted by the pandemic. I know that the chefs whose recipes grace the pages of these books would appreciate your support.
I own two of these books myself, so they come personally recommended. I pre-ordered the other at Christmas time, after interviewing the author, Justine Murphy, for my radio show ‘Table Talk’. I am 100 per cent certain that her recipes will work, having known Justine personally long enough to make that bold claim.
Modern Mediterranean: Sun-drenched recipes from Mallorca and beyond – Marc Fosh (published by Nourish Books)
Marc Fosh is still the only British chef to be at the helm of a Michelin-starred restaurant in Spain. His eponymous restaurant is in Palma and a must-visit in Mallorca’s capital for any serious foodie.Marc’s cookbook is not just a collection of recipes, but reads like a love letter to his adopted island and to Mediterranean products. Eighteen key ingredients of Mediterranean cuisine are each given a chapter of their own, with an introductory text and recipes in which the featured ingredient plays a starring role. The photos will stimulate even the most-jaded tastebuds and are by the award-winning Mallorcan photographer Nando Esteva.
Michelin-starred he may be, but chef Marc Fosh’s book is not just for advanced cooks. Read and follow his fail-safe methodology and you can transport yourself cuisine-wise to Mallorca. Not a bad prospect for anyone in lockdown elsewhere and longing for a taste of this stunning Spanish island.
This book is also now available in German, under the title Mallorca. Both are available from Amazon. In Palma de Mallorca, you’ll be able to buy a copy at Marc’s restaurant or in the lifestyle store Rialto Living – once these businesses re-open.
Restaurante Sebastian in Deià
Patricia and Sebastian with their book, during their interview on ‘Table Talk’
Visitors to the Tramuntana village of Deià have been coming to this romantic restaurant (in a former stable) for 25 years. To celebrate that 2019 milestone, owners chef Sebastian Pasch and his hospitable Irish wife Patricia Sheridan decided to create a book telling their story and that of the popular restaurant. Yes, there are recipes too: for 14 of the most-ordered dishes over the past 25 years. You’ll also be fascinated to see a copy of the menu from 1994 – with prices in pesetas.
If you’re a fan of Restaurante Sebastian (as I am), I’m sure you’ll enjoy getting to know this couple and their restaurant through this book’s pages. The text is in English, German, and Spanish. It’s for sale through the restaurant website here.
The mymuybueno Cookbook – Justine Murphy (Meze Publishing)
British woman Justine Murphy owns a seven-division international business, based in Mallorca (with a London office). Her eight-year-old company includes an award-winning deli, chef-and-interior-staffing agencies, cookery school, concierge and lifestyle-management service, bespoke events, and luxuryware divisions. Good food is at the heart of it all.If that were not enough for this inspirational woman, she’s also mum to two small boys. Justine’s backstory is an extraordinary one and makes what’s she’s achieved all the more remarkable. As well as 160 of her repeatedly tested refined-sugar-free recipes, The mymuybueno Cookbook provides Justine’s valuable tips on getting through the challenges of modern life and shares her personal story, in this 12-chapter, 288-page book.
Fingers crossed my own copy will be in my postbox tomorrow. I pre-ordered it at Christmas and it’s just been published. I can’t wait to sit down and read it with a glass of Mallorcan tinto one evening. You can hear Justine Murphy talking to me on ‘Table Talk’ (edition 87) here.
You can buy a copy of The mymuybueno Cookbook from Amazon or, if you’re in Mallorca, order a copy from this website.
These three cookbooks represent just three of the successful businesses in Mallorca that are facing an uncertain future, because the island is so dependent on tourism – which is impossible during the COVID-19 pandemic. If, like me, you’re a cookbook collector, buying any of the above, will be a small but helpful way to show your support.
Jan Edwards ©2020
-
New Guia Repsol ‘Sols’ in Mallorca for 2020
UPDATE JUNE 2020: Zaranda – which had 2 ‘Sols’ will not be reopening at Castell Son Claret
Two restaurants in Mallorca are celebrating, after the Guía Repsol awarded its ‘Sols’ for 2020. One new ‘Sol’ was awarded to DaiCa in Llubí and to VORO at the Park Hyatt Mallorca, in the northeast resort of Canyamel.
Cati Pieras runs the kitchen at one-‘Sol’- restaurant DaiCa in Llubi
The Guía Repsol is Spain’s answer to the famous red book, the Michelin Guide. The Guía Repsol website explains that ‘Sols’ (Suns) are “prestigious distinctions awarded to the best restaurants and chefs. A symbol of culinary excellence demonstrating Repsol’s connection with and support for Spanish gastronomy.”
The awards were announced and presented on February 24th in San Sebastian, following inspections of more than 1,300 restaurants during 2019.
For 2020, the guide awarded a total of 102 new ‘Sols’. In total across Spain there are 39 restaurants with three ‘Sols’; 152 establishments with two ‘Sols’ and 354 restaurants with one ‘Sol’.
DaiCa
We’ve eaten at DaiCa quite a few times, but I was shocked to realise that the last time was in September 2018 (Really? Time flies by). We’ll be paying a well-overdue return visit very soon.
If you’ve never visited the village of Llubí, not far from Inca, you’ve missed the treat that is eating at DaiCa – a restaurant and petit hotel, owned and run by maître and sommelier David Ribas and his wife, chef Caterina Pieras.
Both have worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants in Catalunya and, before they opened DaiCa, in 2012, Cati was head chef at Es Vi restaurant at the Castillo Hotel Son Vida.
Their combined experience shows at DaiCa, where the cuisine is based on a respect for local, seasonal, and organic produce. Cati’s inspired dishes are rooted in the cuisine of Mallorca and Catalunya, using modern techniques and artistic presentation.
DaiCa restaurant is located within two back-to-back sympathetically restored stone townhouses, joined by a delightful courtyard with tables for outside dining.
Until the end of March, Daica is open Thursday to Sunday, but website has details of which days are open for lunch/dinner/both.
VORO
Mario Wolgast (left) and chef Alvaro Salazar at VORO
I wrote the following information last summer after dinner in the restaurant; it reflects VORO – a seasonal restaurant – at the time.
When the smart restaurant VORO opened in 2019 at the 5-star Park Hyatt Mallorca, in Mallorca’s northeast resort of Canyamel, there was no doubt that the cuisine would be exceptional. This fine-dining restaurant has a talented young team in the kitchen, led by chef Álvaro Salazar. He previously worked in Puerto Pollensa at Argos, which was still in its debut year when Michelin first awarded it a coveted star. VORO was awarded a Michelin star for 2020.
The Andalusian chef’s culinary awards include Chef of the Year 2017, from the association of Balearic gastronomy journalists, and Cocinero del Año 2018 at the Feria Alimentaria de Barcelona. Álvaro describes his cuisine, based on high-quality seasonal local products and showing Andalusian influences, as free spirited.
The place
Álvaro and his entire team left Argos to open VORO, where the environment better reflects the high standard of gastronomy and service. The dining room’s décor is sophisticated but unfussy and comfortable. Modern art hangs on the walls; the floor is of dark wood and attractive hydraulic tiles, and the lighting is stylish. The main dining room seats around sixteen diners and only one table was vacant on the Tuesday we visited. A huge table in a separate area is ideal for groups of up to 12 diners.
Food and wine
Open for dinner only, the adults-only VORO offers a choice of two well-balanced tasting menus: the 11-course VORO and 15-course DEVORO. Each dish is exquisitely presented and explained at the table by a member of the pleasant service team. Restaurant director Mario Wolgast is charming and speaks perfect English. He explained that the menus evolve with the seasonality of the ingredients.
VORO offers around 100 wine references in an impressive list; the intention is to more than double this number. Can’t choose? Opt for one of the two well-chosen wine pairings.
Prices here do reflect the luxurious setting and high standard of gastronomy and service, but if you’re looking to impress someone, are celebrating a special occasion, or relish memorable dining experiences, dinner at VORO ticks all the boxes.
VORO reopens in 2024 on March 15th.
Mallorca’s other ‘Sols’
The following have retained their existing ‘Sols’:
3 ‘Sols’ – Maca de Castro.
2 ‘Sols’: Andreu Genestra, Béns d’Avall, El Olivo, La Fortaleza, DINS Santi Taura, Zaranda.
1 ‘Sol’: Aromata, Casa Manolo, Ca na Toneta, Can Toni Moreno, Es Racó de Teix, and Marc Fosh. NEW: DaiCa & VORO.
Jan Edwards ©2020. Updated March 2024
-
Review of Kasui Japanese Grill and Cocktail Bar in Palma de Mallorca
Happy to follow these instructions…
Fans of Japanese cuisine have plenty of choice these days when eating out in Palma de Mallorca. I’m a big fan of Japanese cuisine and it took little to persuade me to try Kasui Japanese Grill and Cocktail Bar, in the regenerated area of Sa Gerreria. Once a somewhat shady red-light district, Sa Gerreria is now safe to walk around at night and is home to an increasing number of trendy restaurants and bars.
One of these is Kasui Japanese Grill and Cocktail Bar, which opened in Palma’s trendy Plaça Raimundo Clar in September 2019. Owners Paco García Sánchez and Miki Cerdá launched their project on the back of their international restaurant experience.
Paco worked in London for six years. He was at Lima Restaurant with the chef Virgilio Martínez (owner of Restaurant Central in Peru); Lima was the first Peruvian restaurant in Europe to gain a Michelin star (in 2014). Paco also worked at the Japanese restaurant Roka in London, as bar manager for their cocktail bar Shochu Lounge, and opened the company’s Roka Mayfair and, in Miami, ETARU Las Olas.
Chef Miki has worked for the Sheraton and Jumeirah hotel groups, and in Barcelona’s former Hotel Omm (now known as Sir Victor Hotel), and at London’s Roka. He also spent time working in Japan and Singapore.
From the moment you arrive, these two Mallorcan friends’ international experience is evident in the high standards of hospitality, food, and drinks.
Small terrace outside the restaurant
Miki (left) and Paco (right)
Miki at the grill
Service with a smile
Stylish decorEat it, drink it, share it
On entering Kasui Japanese Grill and Cocktail Bar, you see a neon sign on the wall, reading, ‘Eat it, drink it, share it.’ The décor has something of a red vibe, which gives it a womb-like cosiness. Single tables line one wall, which faces the bar and open-kitchen counter, behind which Paco and Miki and his fellow chef Álvaro Busquets work their magic.
Miki is master of the ‘robata’ – the Japanese-style charcoal grill – and Paco mixes the excellent cocktails. A small alarm bell went off in my head when I saw the open grill. Would our clothes reek of cooking when we left?
We were remembering an evening when we went to a concert in Birmingham’s Symphony Hall, after eating in a nearby Japanese teppanyaki restaurant. It was a delicious and entertaining experience (the chef was a whizz with a knife), but we didn’t appreciate how much the cooking smells had permeated our hair and clothes until we took our seats in Symphony Hall. The twitching nostrils of the well-dressed couple sitting next to us were due to the lingering odour of cooking as a result of our sitting around the restaurant’s open grill. I’m pleased to report that our Kasui experience didn’t affect us in the same way – no doubt because of a good extraction system.
Paco’s signature Japanese cocktails awaken the taste buds for the delicious flavours to come. All cocktails – Japanese (my Sumida Blossom was divine) and classic – cost a reasonable 7,90€. Beers include bottled Japanese Kirin (3€). Wines are available by glass and bottle and, of course, sake and a range of spirits (some Japanese) are available.
The food
The menu is divided into sections named as follows: Izakaya, Robatayaki (charcoal-grilled dishes), Kushiyaki (grilled skewers), Street Food, and Desserts. As the neon sign says, this is a place for sharing dishes. Two of us shared seven dishes (including dessert).
Every dish at Kasui was packed with flavour and interest and it would be hard to pick favourites. However, I’ll wave the flag for the soft-shell crab tempura with Japanese BBQ sauce (7,90€), the miso-marinated seabass with daikon emulsion (12,90€), and the meltingly tender beef-fillet skewers with spring onion and yakiniku sauce (8,50€). And for some sexy veggie dishes, try the Thai broccoli with sesame and ginger sauce (5,50€) and the lettuce buds with caramelized onion and apple ponzu (4,90€). Here are pictures of some of our dishes.
Cured croaker sashimi
Thai broccoli with sesame and ginger sauce
Seabass in miso with edamame and daikon emulsion
Beef fillet with spring onion and yakiniku sauce
White chocolate and yuzu ganache with coconut crumble and passion fruitOur dessert of white chocolate and yuzu ganache with coconut crumble and passion fruit (5€) was both rich and refreshing. And too good to share. Something to bear in mind if you eat at Kasui Japanese grill and cocktail bar.
IMHO
We had a delicious dinner at Kasui Japanese Grill and Cocktail Bar and shall return soon. Because this Palma restaurant is quite small, I recommend booking your table in advance. After we had booked, we received an email confirmation; on the day of our booking, a reminder, and after our visit, an email to check on our experience. In my humble opinion, Paco and Miki and their small team deserve to do well.
戻ります (which apparently means ‘We’ll return.’)
Good to know: Kasui Japanese Grill and Cocktail Bar is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays; open for dinner only on Wednesdays and Thursdays; for lunch & dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, and for lunch only on Sundays.
Jan Edwards ©2020
-
Find a Romantic Stay in Palma de Mallorca for Valentine’s
If you want to seriously impress your loved one with a romantic city break, it would be hard to beat a gourmet dinner and overnight stay in Mallorca’s cosmopolitan capital, Palma.
Check out that winter sky above Palma’s cathedral, La Seu
But which of the many boutique hotels in Palma should you choose? If it helps, here are my top three hotels in Palma for a romantic night away (or longer, if you’re lucky) – based on my experience of our personal stays. All are 5-star rated and in quiet locations in the attractive old town. All have good restaurants too, which means you don’t need to venture outside the hotel for dinner if the weather isn’t on your side.
Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden, La Lonja, Palma de Mallorca
We’ve spent Valentine’s night in a hotel in Mallorca every year since 2004, when we moved here. Most of these stays have been in rural establishments, but in 2019 we celebrated in Palma, staying at Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden.
This stunning 5-star hotel in the heart of Palma’s old town will win plenty of brownie points for the person who books a romantic stay here. Although open for only just over a year, the property has won more than 20 international awards. Check out these images of Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden.
Courtyard entrance
The bar at Can Bordoy
In the lounge
Just like a rather grand private home
With 24 suites, spa, roof terrace, and superb chef Andrés Benítez offering healthy gourmet cuisine, what more could you want? Well, there’s also a very special outdoor space at the rear of the hotel: a large peaceful garden with terraced area, where you could toast your love with a glass of fizz. Even in February, you could take the plunge in the heated (oh, the luxury) outdoor swimming pool and whirlpool.
What makes the appropriately named Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden particularly special is the ‘family’ of people who look after you.
And get this! The huge Swedish beds have mattresses with two separate firmness controls – perfect if you and your loved one have different preferences.
Glòria de Sant Jaume Hotel
This boutique hotel resulted from the painstaking renovation of a former Mallorcan manor house, which has its origins in the 16th century. The Cabau family – experienced hoteliers – put enormous amounts of love into the project and it shows in every detail.
The hotel’s El Patio de Glòria restaurant and bar are elegant spaces, that feel cosseting and cosy. Friendly staff members throughout the hotel make you feel welcome and at home.
The basement houses an attractive spa, with one of Palma’s longest indoor swimming pools, sauna, steam room, and a relaxation area, with tea service. Like many boutique hotels in Palma de Mallorca, Glòria de Sant Jaume has a rooftop terrace, where you can relax, sink into the Jacuzzi, and take in a privileged view of the old town’s rooftops.
Glòria de Sant Jaume has 14 very comfortable rooms (of five different types) over two floors of the building. Each room has a distinct identity and ambience, with perfectly restored traditional architectural features. Rooms on the second floor have sloping wooden-beamed ceilings, adding to the cosiness.
Sant Francesc Hotel Singular
A conversion of an old palacio, Sant Francesc Hotel Singular is my third recommendation. The stylish hotel opened in spring 2015 and has gained international acclaim. Although we’ve stayed a few times, we haven’t had a night there for a couple of years and, since we last stayed, the hotel has had a change of general manager and chef.
Find out what I thought about Sant Francesc Hotel Singular, after our first visit, here.
And get this! Sant Francesc Hotel Singular has a superb rooftop terrace and pool, with awesome views. At ground level, there’s a large courtyard garden with dining terrace used in the warmer months.
Jan Edwards©2020
-
Mallorca’s Michelin-starred Restaurants 2020
STOP PRESS: 2021 Mallorca’s only 2-Michelin-star restaurant, Zaranda has moved to Es Princep Hotel in Palma.
Last evening saw the Oscars ceremony of the Spanish and Portuguese gastronomic world. It was the launch – and 110th anniversary – of the Michelin Guide for Spain and Portugal 2020, which took place in the Teatre Lope de Vega in Seville.
As usual, the new stars were announced, from one star to three, with each chef coming onto the stage to collect their new chef’s jacket, bearing the coveted Michelin macaron or rosette, indicating a star. Amongst those who came up to the stage was chef Álvaro Salazar, collecting the first star for Voro – the fine-dining restaurant of the Park Hyatt Mallorca in Canyamel.
Chef Álvaro Salazar had previously been at Argos in Puerto Pollensa which, like Voro, won a star in its first season. The Boss and I ate at Voro in June this year and I chose it as my Restaurant of the Week on Mallorca Sunshine Radio. (Read more about it below).
There were no other new stars awarded in Mallorca, but the following retained previously awarded stars: Marc Fosh, Adrian Quetglas, Es Racó d’es Teix, Maca de Castro, Andreu Genestra, and Es Fum – all with one star; Zaranda, with two stars. Once again, there are several excellent restaurants on the island that were overlooked when it came to stars. Next year, maybe?
VORO
Maitre Mario (left) with chef Alvaro Salazar
When the smart restaurant VORO opened this year at the 5-star Park Hyatt Mallorca, in Mallorca’s northeast resort of Canyamel, there was no doubt that the cuisine would be exceptional. This fine-dining restaurant has a talented young team in the kitchen, led by chef Álvaro Salazar.
The Andalusian chef’s culinary awards include Chef of the Year 2017, from the association of Balearic gastronomy journalists, and Cocinero del Año 2018 at the Feria Alimentaria de Barcelona. Álvaro describes his cuisine, based on high-quality seasonal local products and showing Andalusian influences, as free spirited.
Álvaro and his entire team left Argos to open VORO, where the environment better reflects the high standard of gastronomy and service. The dining room’s décor is sophisticated but unfussy and comfortable. Modern art hangs on the walls; the floor is of dark wood and attractive hydraulic tiles, and the lighting is stylish. The main dining room seats around sixteen diners and only one table was vacant on the Tuesday we visited. A huge table in a separate area is ideal for groups of up to 12 diners.
Open for dinner only, the adults-only VORO offers a choice of two well-balanced tasting menus: the 11-course VORO and 15-course DEVORO. We chose the 11-course version and each dish thrilled us with its exquisite presentation, textures, and flavours. Every dish was explained at the table by a member of the pleasant service team. Restaurant director Mario Wolgast is charming and speaks perfect English. He explained that the menus evolve with the seasonality of the ingredients. The dishes pictured below are just a few from our VORO tasting menu.
Elegant and unfussy – the dining room at VORO
VORO offers around 100 wine references in an impressive list; the intention is to more than double this number. Can’t choose? Opt for one of the two well-chosen wine pairings.
Prices here do reflect the luxurious setting and high standard of gastronomy and service, but if you’re looking to impress someone, are celebrating a special occasion, or relish memorable dining experiences, dinner at VORO ticks all the boxes.
And now, Voro has a Michelin star for 2020; I wasn’t at all surprised to see Álvaro step onto the stage to collect his jacket. Congratulations to the whole VORO team – and to all the other Michelin-starred restaurants in Mallorca. What an amazing gastronomic destination this island is.
Jan Edwards ©2019
-
Discover the Terragust Farm-to-plate Experience in Mallorca
A Terragust cap was useful for shading us from the very warm autumn sunshine
If finding unique gastronomic experiences in Mallorca is something you enjoy, you’ll love Terragust. Their experiences – uniting agriculture and gastronomy – take place in the fertile agricultural land just outside the town of Manacor, where the company Terracor grows its fresh produce. (Terracor and Terragust are sister companies).
Before the event, the Terragust organizers had sent us a Google map, which directed us one Saturday morning at 11.30 to an orchard, at the end of a long country lane. We knew we’d found the right place when we saw a group of people standing chatting.
The Land and the Produce
Our two Terragust guides were farmers Matias Adrover Sitger, who owns the orchard (and other agricultural land in the Manacor area) and Pere Lluis Julia Vicens (who speaks English and German as well as castellano and mallorquín). These two friendly and land-dedicated Mallorcans handed each member of the group a Terragust-branded cap and cloth bag – instructing us to use the latter to help ourselves to as much fresh produce as we liked as we walked through the pomegranate orchard in front of us.
In the middle of the orchard, a table had been set up with a variety of pomegranates – whole and halved – along with dishes of the fruit. A bowl of the jewel-like arils from each one enabled us each to taste the difference between the varieties – something you really only appreciate when you can compare them in this way. Our guides pointed out the trees for each variety so we could collect the ones we liked.
Matias (left) & Pere explain about their Terracor pomegranates
Beautiful pomegranates
Comparing the taste of different pomegranatesA little further into the orchard, we stopped at another table, on which there were different types of melon – including a pale-skinned variety known as Sineu (named after the Mallorcan town) or melon blanc – and some varieties of Terracor’s salad greens recently plucked from another field. We were able to taste the different melons and the lettuces – which were nothing like the bland-tasting salad greens found in a supermarket.
Having learnt something about these fresh products, we were then free to collect what we wanted before we set off – driving in convoy – to our next location, a place where voluptuous bunches of table grapes hung from tall vines. The journey was short and as we emerged from our cars, Matias had already picked a huge bunch of black grapes, hanging from the vines, and was passing grapes around for us all to try. They were probably the most delicious grapes I’d ever tasted.
And So to Lunch
A long table was set up and ready for lunch between the vines. It looked impossibly romantic – like something from one of those movies set in the Mediterranean. Before we sat down, we had a glass of wine and helped ourselves to the plates of snacks on offer. We were a mixed group of Germans, Spanish and Mallorcans, and us, the only two English people. Nevertheless, the conversation flowed and I was fortunate enough to sit next to Pere, who told us he he’d been privately educated and had lived and worked in Switzerland before deciding to return to Mallorca and his rural roots.
We were treated to a five-course menu, incorporating Terracor produce, created by the Mallorcan chef Biel Llull Galmés – nicknamed ‘Cornet’ (a type of sea snail, apparently – not something topped with a scoop of ice cream!). Still aged under 30, this Manacor-born chef previously worked at the former Molí d’en Bou (which had a Michelin star) and in Manacor’s acclaimed Can March restaurant.
Lunch included delicious ‘xeixa’ wheat bread which Biel had made in the small hours of that morning and delicious wines from local bodega Miquel Gelabert. I’ve included below a couple of photos of the dishes we ate for lunch.
Biel worked in the mobile Terragust kitchen and plated up outside, as the weather was good. Lunch was delicious and I wasn’t too surprised to see that a few additional people joined us at the table. You don’t have to do the full Terragust experience to have lunch (or, in the summer, dinner); you can just come to have a meal in a memorable setting that’s very different from a restaurant. Lunch with wine, water, and coffee costs a very reasonable 40€.
The menu in English
‘Cornet’s delicious home-made xeixa wheat bread
Chef ‘Cornet’. Real name Biel Llull Galmes
Alfresco lunch amidst vines growing table grapes
Low-temperature cooked free-range chicken with pumpkin puree and spiced couscous
‘Greoxonera’ of cottage cheese with pomegranate
The Terragust team after lunch
Local wines from Miquel GelabertMatias and Pere would like us all to be able to find fresh produce for sale at its moment of peak ripeness. It’s not something you’ll find in supermarket produce which, they claim, supermarkets require to be harvested and delivered before it’s at that point.
And Finally …
If you’re interested in finding out more about seasonal fresh produce, would like to taste zero-kilometre produce at peak perfection, and discover a different form of rural tourism in Mallorca, I am pleased to recommend the Terragust experience. They offer these several times a week and, during the summer, the field tours and alfresco meal take place in the evening.
2021 Update: We’ve now been to three of these events and have enjoyed them all. If you’re planning a works ‘do’ in the run up to Christmas, you may be interested to learn that Terragust now offers private dinners and events for groups of between 20 and 40 people. Email for further information: reservas@terragust.es
If you’re on Instagram and/or Facebook, follow me on eatdrinksleepmallorca.
Jan Edwards ©2019
-
Hidden Kitchen Dinner in Mallorca Distillery
Our Hidden Kitchen dinner table
Would you book and pay in advance for dinner, without knowing where and what you’d be eating? That’s just what I did when I booked seats, on the 9th of July, for the The Boss and myself for last night’s Hidden Kitchen dinner. In theory, we could have been eating anywhere in Mallorca – an island of roughly the same area as Hampshire in the UK.
If doing this sounds unusual – and perhaps a little risky – there were two reasons I knew this would become one of the memorable dining-out experiences of 2019. One: chef David Moreno – from the restaurant at the 5-star Can Simoneta hotel in the northeast resort of Canyamel – would be preparing the dinner with his team.
Two: this was a Hidden Kitchen event, organized by the Balearic gastronomic promoters, Chefs(in). These are popular dinners, for a limited number of diners. Places sell out quickly and I’d attempted to buy tickets for previous events without success. When the news of last night’s Hidden Kitchen popped up in my email inbox back in the summer, I got straight on the case and booked without delay.
What is a Hidden Kitchen dinner?
It’s a one-off dinner for 20 people, prepared by one of Mallorca’s best chefs, and served in a special location that is never a restaurant. More than 30 Hidden Kitchen dinners have taken place, with venues including a cave, museums, an artist’s studio, and even the pitch of Real Mallorca’s Son Moix football stadium!
Locations are never repeated. I couldn’t wait to find out where we would be dining – but we’d have to be patient, because we wouldn’t know until we arrived at the venue. How tantalizing is that?
We also had no idea what we would be on the menu, but having eaten Mexican chef David Moreno’s cuisine at the restaurant where he worked previously, we knew we’d love the unique dishes he’d be creating. We did know that we would share a table with the other diners. Who would they be? This is all part of the fun of a Hidden Kitchen dinner.
Clues began to arrive
Each day, from Tuesday this week until yesterday, Chefs(in) sent us an email (in both Spanish and English) containing a clue about the event. This helped to build the suspense and by the time the third clue arrived, I had an inkling that I knew where the event would take place. I was wrong.
On the day of Hidden Kitchen
Our instructions took us to the designated meeting point on the outskirts of Palma de Mallorca, where participants would park their cars and board the luxurious Transfer Class minibus that would whisk us to the venue. We were the first to arrive and soon met friendly Mallorcan couple Nelly and Gregorio, who’d been gifted their Hidden Kitchen places by (generous) friends.
When everyone had arrived, Araceli Bosch from Chefs(in) welcomed us in Spanish and English, explaining a little of what would be happening. She would travel in her own car to the venue and we’d be on the minibus.
“Do not ask the driver where you are going,” she said, smiling. “He will not tell you!”
The level of chatter on the bus rose as we set off. One of the clues had been that we had to be at least eighteen years old to go to the venue; a visiting American man, who sat across the bus from us, mused that it could be a strip club! Er, no. Chefs(in) is a class outfit.
Because I was in a window seat, I could see where we were going and, a few minutes before we arrived, I thought I knew the location – because I’d visited fairly recently to record a radio interview with the business’s British owner, Byron Holland. I don’t think anyone other than us had any idea what was beyond the doors of the place where the minibus stopped.
Mallorca Distillery
Three ‘volunteers’ from the bus were tasked with knocking on the door of the premises. This was the signal for the large garage-style door to be raised and our Hidden Kitchen location revealed. Araceli (who’d arrived by a more direct route), Byron and his wife Elena (who both joined us for dinner), chef David Moreno, his sous chef Edgar Rodríguez, and other members of their team stood waiting to greet us.
Araceli Bosch (left), Elena and Byron Holland, and David Moreno (right)
Chef David Moreno
The culinary team at workAfter brief introductions by Araceli and Byron, we chose our seats at the beautifully prepared table. We were a mixed group of Mallorcan, Scandinavian, American, and British diners – some resident like us, some on holiday here. After introductions, animated conversations began immediately.
Mallorca Distillery’s Palma Gin has won several awards
A basket of this delicious bread each!
Snack starters served Mexican style!
Sea bass tiradito with mango, passion fruit and jalapeno
Spicy cod quesadilla ‘a la diabla’
Norway lobster with lime, chilli, and Palma Gin gel
Table detail
Black pork, green tomato and pickled onion
Mexican chocolate dessert: Moctezuma’s Treasure
Petits fours served in a Mexican style!A printed copy of the menu was at each table setting, along with a surprise gift: a bottle of the award-winning Palma Gin, produced by Mallorca Distillery. The above are just some of the dishes we enjoyed.
We ate a succession of delicious dishes – many with Mexican culinary touches. Drinks were included and we started the evening with a glass of delicious organic rosado cava. Wines, a glass of sake, and a sherry were matched to the dishes by Lloseta-based wine distributors Vinamica. After a speciality coffee by Palma roasters Arabay Coffee, the evening ended with a delicious Palma Gin and tonic.
Verdict
This Hidden Kitchen dinner is one we’ll remember for a long time. The cuisine, drinks, setting, and company added up to a most convivial evening. I can highly recommend a Hidden Kitchen dinner if you are open to the idea of surprises, sharing a table with friends you haven’t yet met, and have a sense of fun and curiosity.
If you’d like to find out more about Chefs(in) and their Hidden Kitchen dinners, check out their website.
Maybe we’ll meet you dining at a future Hidden Kitchen?
Jan Edwards ©2019
Eat Drink Sleep Mallorca 