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  • Michelin Bib Gourmands on Mallorca for 2017

    Stars are not the only awards Michelin bestows on restaurants: five restaurants on Mallorca have the acclaimed Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand for 2017. Michelin awards this to restaurants that they find have the ‘best quality-price relationship’.

    Two restaurants – Ca Na Toneta and Santi Taura – are new to the Bib Gourmand list for 2017. Both are well-deserved awards for lovely restaurants.

    Ca Na Toneta

    Here are some images of Ca Na Toneta, a welcoming village restaurant in Caimari. The Bib Gourmand follows the recent Condé Nast Traveler accolade of Ca Na Toneta being named one of the world’s best 207 restaurants (yes, 207 is a strange number!) – a list compiled by people who make their living eating, cooking, and travelling extensively.

    What to look out for in Caimari's charming narrow streets

    What to look out for in Caimari’s charming narrow streets

    Possibly the best coca on Mallorca ...

    Possibly the best coca on Mallorca …

    Superb cooking

    Superb cooking

    Al fresco terrace with quirky art on the walls

    Al fresco terrace with quirky art on the walls

    Santi Taura

    Read about Santi Taura – the name of both the chef and his Lloseta restaurant – here.  And here’s a more recent photo of the chef/patron:

     

    santi-taura

    The other three restaurants had the Bib Gourmand in 2016 and do so again for 2017:

    Joan Marc in Inca

    Patrón Lunares in Palma

    Son Tomás in Banyalbufar

    Text & photos ©Jan Edwards 2016

  • Michelin-starred restaurants on Mallorca (2017)

    Two restaurants on Mallorca have each won their first Michelin star. The Oscars of the culinary world were announced this evening at the annual awards ceremony, held this year in Girona at the gastronomic events space Mas Marroch – owned by the Roca brothers.

    michelin-photo-2017

    For the first time, the restaurant Adrián Quetglas in Palma gained one star, as did Argos in Puerto Pollensa, where young chef Álvaro Salazar is at the helm. Both restaurants are excellent.  I had dinner at Adrián Quetglas on my birthday recently, but Adrián was in Russia that night – collecting his ‘chef of the year’ award there. His Moscow restaurant AQ was also named third-best restaurant in Russia; Adrián has plenty to celebrate right now …

    Other stars for 2017 remain as in 2016:

    Two stars:

    • Zaranda

    One star:

    • Andreu Genestra
    • Bou
    • Es Fum
    • Es Racó d’es Teix
    • Jardín
    • Marc Fosh

    Congratulations to everyone involved, but why no star for DINS Santi Taura … ?

    Text & photos ©Jan Edwards 2016

  • Beautiful Biniagual – wine and hamlet

    Bodega Biniagual

    Bodega Biniagual

    It’s an important time of year in the wine industry. Most bodegas have harvested their grapes (I read of one winery that was still gathering grapes in yesterday, when it rained substantially on Mallorca for the first time in months).

    In the town of Binissalem – the heart of one of Mallorca’s two main DO wine-producing areas – the annual wine harvest fair (the Festa des Vermar) has been underway for a few days and ends this coming weekend. If you happen to be on Mallorca on Saturday 24th September, head for Binissalem to be part of the festivities, which include a parade of themed floats, wine tasting fair, and late-night dancing in the square to local bands and a DJ. It’ll be a lively affair …

    Bodega Biniagual

    Just a short drive from this hub of wine production is the gorgeous hideaway hamlet of Biniagual and, a little outside it, the Bodega Biniagual, which produces award-winning wines – 70 per cent of which are exported (mainly to Switzerland).

    Here are some of my photos of the hamlet of Biniagual and, below, a link to my article about Bodega Biniagual published in Insiders Abroad magazine.

    Read more about Biniagual here (from page 34)

    Jan Edwards ©2016

  • A new hotel collection of Miró art

    Terrace of El Olivo

    Terrace of El Olivo restaurant

    The 5-star hotel Belmond La Residencia in Deià has long had an association with art. It’s not surprising, as this beautiful village on the northwest coast of Mallorca is enough to bring out the artist in anyone – even me (although my own painterly skills stopped developing when I was about 10 years old).

    Last year the hotel redeveloped its bistro and bar, creating the new Café Miró. As well as a place to eat and drink, this space also serves as an exhibition area for original paintings by the Catalan artist Joan Miró. The hotel has a good relationship with the Miró family and Café Miró is home to a collection of 33 of the renowned artist’s original artworks, on loan from the family. It is the largest exhibition of Miró artworks on display together in any of the world’s hotels. This new exhibition continues throughout 2017 and members of the public are welcome to visit it and also see Miró’s famous bronze sculpture Tête, in the hotel’s sculpture garden.

    Gourmet dinner menu

    Belmond La Residencia’s executive chef Guillermo Méndez created a special Miró gourmet menu to celebrate the new exhibition. It has been designed to “reflect the artist’s thoughts and attitude towards fresh Mediterranean food” – as expressed in his writings and from information provided by the artist’s family.

    Available at El Olivo restaurant from September 8th to the end of the month.

    Available at El Olivo restaurant from September 8th to the end of the month.

    Tea with Miró

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    Cafe Miró is also introducing a ‘Tea with Miró’, including pastries created by the chef. Afternoon tea is a very British tradition (one we used to enjoy in our home country), and there aren’t too many places on Mallorca where you can find such a treat. And this one is particularly special, as it served on a bespoke porcelain tea service – a concept created by the hotel’s resident sculptor Juan Waelder, for Cafe Miró. The exclusive tea service is available to purchase (in a limited production) – but only from Belmond La Residencia’s boutique.

    Read about our excellent lunch earlier this year at Cafe Miró here.

     Text & images Jan Edwards©2016

  • Virgin Limited Edition offers luxury villa holidays on Mallorca

    Sir Richard Branson is no stranger to Mallorca: he used to own the iconic Deià hotel La Residencia (now Belmond La Residencia), and, I’m told, still stays there sometimes.

    Last year the renowned entrepreneur bought himself another piece of Mallorcan paradise: the 19th-century Son Bunyola estate. But not for the first time: Sir Richard has owned the estate before – only selling it in 2002 because he couldn’t then get planning permission to undertake his planned project.

    Virgin Limited Edition’s Son Bunyola villas

    Son Bunyola is now part of Virgin Limited Edition – Sir Richard Branson’s privately owned collection of award-winning luxury hotels and retreats. Occupying more than 700 acres of land amidst spectacular scenery, Son Bunyola is located between Esporles and Banyalbufar on the Tramuntana coast.

    Two newly opened villas on the estate now offer discerning – and privacy-loving – people the opportunity to holiday in the privileged location that captured Sir Richard’s heart.

    Sa Punta de S’Aguila (the name is mallorquín for ‘eagle’s point’)

    This five-bedroom villa has been built in traditional Mallorcan style, with exposed beam ceilings and terracotta-tiled floors. Offering total privacy, it has panoramic sea and mountain views, and comfortably sleeps 10 adults in five en suite bedrooms. It has its own heated swimming pool.

    Virgin Limited Edition, Sa Punta, Son Bunyola, Mallorca

    Entrance of Sa Punta, Son Bunyola

    Sa Punta, Son Bunyola, Mallorca

    Sa Punta, Son Bunyola, Mallorca

    Virgin Limited Edition, Sa Punta, Son Bunyola, Mallorca

    The terrace Sa Punta, Son Bunyola

    Terrace dining at Sa Punta

    Terrace dining at Sa Punta

    Rates start from 21,825 euros for a seven-night stay.

    Sa Terra Rotja (which means ‘red earth’)

    This four-bedroom villa (comfortably sleeping eight adults in four en suite bedrooms) is near the estate’s edge. It’s just a short walk from a pebble beach, but also has its own heated swimming pool.

    View of Sa Terra Rotja villa, Son Bunyola

    View of Sa Terra Rotja villa, Son Bunyola

    Pool at Sa Terra Rotja villa, Son Bunyola

    Pool at Sa Terra Rotja villa, Son Bunyola

    On the terrace at Sa Terra Rotja, Son Bunyola

    On the terrace at Sa Terra Rotja, Son Bunyola

    Rates start from 17,460 euros for a seven-night stay.

    The villas share use of a tennis court (racquets and balls provided).

    Prices for both include accommodation, all drinks, breakfast, lunch, and dinner, concierge service, WiFi, daily housekeeping and pool servicing.

    I should add at this point – although you may have guessed already – that I have not visited or stayed in either villa. I’m sure they’re gorgeous and when (note the positive when, rather than if!), Euromillions throws a decent win at us, one of Sir Richard Branson’s Son Bunyola estate villas will be a definite possibility for a holiday … especially as they’re right here on Mallorca.

    ©Jan Edwards 2016

    Photos courtesy of Virgin Limited Edition

  • 10 things to know about Mallorcan olive oil

    Mallorcan olive tree

    Nature’s sculpture – ancient olive tree on Mallorca

    What’s not to love about extra virgin olive oil? It’s super-healthy, delicious, and incredibly versatile. Living here on Mallorca, we always have at least four different brands of it in our kitchen. It seems unbelievable that in the UK, some 50 years ago, you’d probably find it for sale only in small bottles at chemist shops, for medicinal use.

    Olive oil is also great for the skin, as was confirmed when I once had the pleasure of sitting next to Josep Oliver i Timoner at a lunch. He was the president of Oli de Mallorca from 2003 until last year, and I couldn’t help but notice – and comment – that the skin on his hands was smooth and barely lined. Was it from working with olives? He chuckled and confirmed that was the case.

    Olive press

    The old olive press – or tafona – at Caimari

    10 facts about Mallorcan olive oil that you may not have known

    • Olives were cultivated on Mallorca more than two millennia ago and 90% cent of the island’s olive trees are more than 500 years old.
    • As long ago as the 19th century, olive oil from Mallorca was recognized for its high quality. In 1888 it won a prize at the Exposición Universal de Barcelona.
    • Olive oil accounted for 80% of Mallorca’s exports in the 19th century.
    • The Oli de Mallorca DO (Designation of Origin) was established in 2002 and its Regulatory Council guarantees the origin and quality of the designated oils. All are extra virgin, pure olive oil, and of a superior category, produced only by mechanical means and without the use of chemicals.
    • The numbered label on the Oli de Mallorca bottle tops is the guarantee that it has passed the required quality controls. On the Gest Oli website you can type in the unique letters and numbers found on one of these bottle tops to find a host of information about that particular oil and its production. Doing this becomes addictive, if like me, you flirt a bit with a variety of Mallorca’s olive oils …
    • There is such a thing as olive oil tourism (oleoturismo) on Mallorca: you can take an excursion along the official olive oil routes (rutas del aceite de Mallorca), stay in one of the several hotels that still have an old olive press, or eat in a restaurant using Oli de Mallorca oils in its cuisine.

      Old olive press in the bar at Son Brull Hotel & Spa

      Old olive press in the bar at Son Brull Hotel & Spa

    • 216,683 litres of Oli de Mallorca oils were sold in 2015 – an increase of 12% over the previous year. Twenty-nine per cent of this was sold outside Mallorca: Germany, Japan, Norway, were the main importers.
    • Mallorca has an annual autumn olive oil fair in the village of Caimari. Read about last year’s Fira de s’Oliva here.
    • Each year the Oli de Mallorca DO Regulatory Council appoints an island chef as its ambassador. This year Macarena de Castro from the Michelin-starred restaurant Jardín in Puerto Alcúdia holds the title.
    • You can use it in cocktails! Each summer Oli de Mallorca asks a well-known cocktail maker to create a signature cocktail with olive oil as an ingredient. Last week I attended the launch of the latest one, at cocktail & whisky bar Chapeau 1987 in Palma (under the same ownership as Ginbo). Matias Iriarte created a surprisingly delicious silky cocktail named Baix l’Olivera (Under the olive tree) – see recipe below.

    Baix l’Olivera cocktail recipe

    Matias Iriarte (right) at work on his cocktail

    45ml of Gin Mare (infused with olive)

    15ml of Cocchi Americano

    30ml of mandarin and lime juice

    20ml of syrup of Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, thyme, basil)

    15ml of Oli de Mallorca

    20 ml of egg white

    The finished creation

    The finished creation

    Put all ingredients into a cocktail shaker and shake energetically for one minute. Add ice cubes. Shake again to chill everything. Serve in a glass and sprinkle with a little dried olive powder. Drink!

    Jan Edwards©2016

  • Manacor’s Sant Jaume wine and tapas festival

    The 2017 edition of this Sant Jaume wine and tapas festival takes place on Saturday, July 22nd.

    “Brussels sprout wine, anyone?” Memories of my childhood flashed through my mind when we heard that Manacor was hosting a wine and tapas festival … featuring home-made wines. My dad used to make his own wine, from almost anything he could find on a market fruit and veg stall. His demijohns of murky liquid would sit fermenting in our family home’s warm airing cupboard and, on more than one occasion, the liquid erupted from its glass container all over mum’s freshly laundered linen. Thankfully, I was too young to drink the stuff.

    Nothing but the grape

    But the home-made wine we tried last weekend was rather good, and made from grapes (what else, here on Mallorca?); not a drop of parsnip or rhubarb wine was to be tasted. The first-ever Wine Festival & Tapas Night took place in Plaza Rector Rubí, between the town’s imposing church and the highly recommended El Palau café, and was part of the town’s annual Sant Jaume festivities.

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    For a ticket costing 5 euros, members of the public could choose two of the excellent tapas on offer for the occasion at El Palau and taste as much wine as they liked, without further charge. The hobby winemakers were stationed at 11 tables in the square outside the café, bottles at the ready.  We were pleasantly surprised not just at the quality of the wines, but also the attention and detail that had gone into bottling and labelling wines that are not produced for commercial gain. These bottles of wine would not have looked out of place on the shelves of a wine store or supermarket. Some of the winemakers had come from as far as Alcúdia and Binissalem.

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    Tasty tapas

    A delicious array of tapas for the event at El Palau Cafe

    A delicious array of tapas for the event at El Palau Cafe

    El Palau café (Manacor’s best, in our opinion) prepared trays of nine varieties of tapas, which were displayed on the counter so that we could make our choice. It was difficult to choose only two and, because they were so tasty, we went back and paid to have some more.

    The exterior of El Palau

    The exterior of El Palau

    We thought this inaugural Mostra de Vins Casolans (home-made wine show) was a great success – and are already looking forward to next year’s Sant Jaume festivities in Manacor. I may just invite my Dad over to Mallorca to come too …

    Jan Edwards©2016

  • Peccata Minuta: summer gourmet tapas at Mallorca’s Golf de Son Vida

    Mallorca’s latest Peccata Minuta gourmet tapas route had all the ingredients of a perfect summer’s evening: delicious food from six top chefs (two from Michelin-starred restaurants), two cocktail connoisseurs, champagne, and a glorious setting.

    The fun began when we were ‘limousined’ from the car park area to the Golf de Son Vida clubhouse … on a golf buggy. At the 19th hole, the organizers Chefs(in) checked us in (this event had required advance purchase of tickets), and gave us our ‘passports’ – a booklet of tear-out tickets to exchange for the various dishes and drinks.

    golf

    Golf de Son Vida

    The eating and drinking began on the huge terrace of the clubhouse, where we gazed out over the golf course and backdrop of the Son Vida hills, dotted with luxurious mansions. As we rarely visit golf courses, the sight of green (rather than brown) grass in the heat of July was quite a novelty …

    We started in fine style: a cocktail created by Rafa Martín, owner of the cosmopolitan Palma cocktail bar BrassClub.

    Rafa Martín

    Rafa Martín

    Rafa's delicious concoction contained strawberries, coconut, lime, and the Brazilian distillation Capucana Cachaça.

    Rafa’s delicious concoction contained strawberries, coconut, lime, and the Brazilian distillation Capucana Cachaça.

    Two of the chefs were stationed on the terrace, serving starter-style dishes. First, Juan Portillo of Blau Portopetro Hotel: 

    Chef Juan Portillo

    Juan Portillo

    Juan's cold ravioli of trampó (a refreshing Mallorcan salad of chopped tomato, peppers, and onions) with 'ramallet' tomato-water and marinated sardine.

    Juan’s cold ravioli of trampó (a refreshing Mallorcan salad of chopped tomato, peppers, and onions) with ‘ramallet’ tomato-water and marinated sardine.

    At the other end of the terrace, we found the team from the renowned Manacor restaurant Can March.

    Brothers Tolo (left) and Miquel Gelabert from Can March.

    Brothers Tolo (left) and Miquel Gelabert from Can March.

    Can March's carpaccio of courgette with apple, cheese, dried tomato and dried fruits, with DO-designated olive oil from Mallorca; full of flavour - and healthy!

    Can March’s carpaccio of courgette with apple, cheese, dried tomato and dried fruits, with DO-designated olive oil from Mallorca; full of flavour – and healthy!

    We moved downstairs to the greens, where the other chefs had set up their stalls near the attractive fountain. It was time for a visit to the Vinamica stall, where we handed over two tickets for a couple of flutes of Aubry Brut Rosé.  We then visited each food stall for a portion of the dishes prepared by the respective chefs.

    Tomeu Caldentey owns the Michelin-starred Bou in Sa Coma. A must-visit for an amazing dining experience.

    Tomeu Caldentey owns the Michelin-starred Bou in Sa Coma. A must-visit for an amazing dining experience.

    Andrés Benítez from Bou

    Andrés Benítez from Bou

    Tomeu, Andrés and the Bou team produced the Tomeu Caldentey classic dish Cannelloni 2001. I’ve eaten it a few times and always marvel at the depth of flavour in the dish. Highly recommended.

    Tomeu Martí from Arume in Palma

    Tomeu Martí from Arume in Palma

    Tomeu produced a tender beef cheeks and foie Malaysian curry – rather different to (but every bit as tasty as) the cuisine on offer at his Palma restaurant Arume.  Rafa Sánchez of Es Fum offered a fish dish:

    Rafa, left, is from Michelin-starred Es Fum at St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort

    Rafa, left, is from Michelin-starred Es Fum at St Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort

    Rafa's black halibut, tamarillo cream, and pecan nut, with beetroot dust

    Rafa’s black halibut, tamarillo cream, and pecan nut, with beetroot dust

    Silvia Anglada from Es Tast de na Silvia had come over from Menorca to produce the dessert: a warm coca bamba with ice cream made from the Menorcan liqueur ratafia, based on green walnuts and aromatics. She also brought two artisan cheeses from Mahón.

    Another cocktail beckoned: a refreshing blend of gin, citrus textures, mint, and ginger, created by Joan Canals.

    Cocktail maker Joan Canals from Ulisses in Ciutadella, Menorca

    Cocktail maker Joan Canals from Ulisses in Ciutadella, Menorca

    The Marabans coffee and tea ‘truck’ is often seen at street food festivals on Mallorca and made an appearance on the course to dispense its popular Marabans Frozen Coffee. I always drink my coffee black and wouldn’t have tried this wonderful concoction ordinarily. It proved to be a revelation and could be the start of a small addiction …

    We’ve been to several of these Peccata Minuta events and they are well worth attending if you are on Mallorca (or Menorca) while one is taking place. Check out the Chefs(in) website to keep up to date with these and other events they organize.

    Text & images ©Jan Edwards 2016

  • Nice ice, baby: Palma’s best ice-cream places

    Back in my days of presenting a programme on BBC local radio, I made a one-night-only appearance in pantomime at the Oxford Playhouse. Dressed in a voluminous fairy-queen-mother-type gown, I had to sing (oh, the poor audience) ‘I scream for ice cream’. The words haunted my dreams for a week or two beforehand, as I set about learning my lines. “Never again will I have to sing that song,” I declared with relief after my brief panto debut.

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    This week, however, I could scream for ice cream. The mercury is rising and what better than an ice cream to provide some relief? If you’re visiting Palma (you surely are, because everyone else seems to be), you’ll find ice cream on sale in plenty of places (look for the queues outside). But for something special – artisan ice cream – these are my favourite purveyors:

    RivaReno ice creams

    A choice of fabulous flavours.

    RivaReno Gelato

    RivaReno Gelato is an Italian ice cream place in the La Lonja district, located near the waterfront and opposite the handsome sandstone building known as Sa Llotja. The ice cream is made fresh daily on the premises (in the adjoining laboratory – open to view) and if you’re really naughty, you can have it drizzled with melted chocolate from a special tap. If you don’t want the sunshine to melt your ice cream, perch on one of the stools and eat it on the premises – handy if you decide to indulge in a second round. As if!

    Can Miquel Gelateria

    Can Miquel Gelateria is a Mallorcan company that’s been satisfying the ice cream demands of the good folks of Palma for more than 30 years, using a traditional base recipe passed down over the years. Their ice cream parlour used to be located in Jaime III but is now tucked away in more contemporary (and larger) premises a few steps away from the original location. On  one visit I counted 15 different varieties of chocolate ice cream. It’s very popular among local yummy mummies taking their children for a treat.

    Bo Bom Gelato – This Italian-owned business has now relocated to England

    This place, owned by an Italian family, opened only in March this year but already has a lot of fans – of whom I am one. Luca Narbona is passionate about his country’s gelato and learnt the artisan craft of making it from one of Italy’s gelato  maestros. Find the ‘laboratory’ (where the magic happens) and shop in Palma’s Costa de la Pols (just off the Rambla). You can also find their gelato on sale in Santa Catalina’s indoor market. As well as gelato in cones or paper cups, you can buy in larger quantities to take home. Do check out the gelato patisserie as well. Hard to believe those gorgeous cakes are made from gelato!

    Gelato patisserie at Bo Bom

    Temptations galore in this cabinet full of gelato patisserie at Bo Bom

    Ice Wave

    I haven’t yet tried the ice cream at Ice Wave in C/ Sindicat (one of the busy shopping streets of central Palma), but a couple of people have told me it’s good. It’s certainly different: your ice cream is made right in front of you, to order, on a frozen pan – thus keeping the optimum freshness of the fruit and other ingredients. The concept apparently comes from Thailand and one of this business’s founders brought the idea to Spain after spending time over there. Whenever I’ve walked past there’s always been a queue and I’ve always been in a hurry. Another time maybe.

    It’s 30 degrees (and rising) in the shade on the terrace at home. If we were in Palma right now we’d probably be thinking about having an artisan ice cream …

    Text & images ©Jan Edwards 2016 Updated June 2018 to add Bo Bom.

  • Review: Mallorca vegan/veggie restaurant: Bellaverde, Puerto Pollensa

    Yesterday saw the start of Vegan Week in Mallorca and some interesting things are happening in this period (June 27th to July 1st, 2016). Not connected to this in any way is the fact that I am preparing my first vegan lunch for friends this week …

    A green oasis in a popular Mallorcan resort

    On Sunday we were in Puerto Pollensa for a walk and decided to have lunch at Restaurante Bellaverde, a welcoming place offering vegetarian and vegan cuisine in this north Mallorcan resort. Having read that its owner Svenja Gallé – an instructor at the Vegan Gastronomy Culinary Academy – is hosting a vegan wine tasting and food pairing event  (June 30th from 20h-23h at the restaurant) as part of this Vegan Week in Mallorca’s programme of activities, it seemed a good opportunity to share a bit more information about her restaurant.

    Come into the garden …

    Restaurante Bellaverde is just a few steps away from the seafront but, once you’re through the gates into the tranquil garden, you feel a world away from a popular family resort. Svenja uses a variety of spices and herbs, and cooking techniques to create her delicious (and generously portioned) vegetarian and vegan cuisine, based on organic vegetables.

    The setting is relaxing, and on alternate Sunday lunchtimes live handpan music from Jordi Cantos and Sergio Huerta enhances the ambience. We weren’t familiar with this music and it felt like a great discovery, so we bought two CDs of their sounds.

    Live - relaxing - music on alternate Sunday lunchtimes

    Live – relaxing – music on alternate Sunday lunchtimes

    There are lovely shaded areas of the garden where you can sit and relax over a drink or coffee, as well as the tables and chairs for eating. At the heart of the garden is an enormous spreading fig tree, providing shade and the delicate scent of fig leaves. You can also eat indoors in the attractive dining room.

     

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    Chilled-out cats in one corner!

    Chilled-out cats in one corner!

    Food and drink

    We each had a salad and dessert, with a half-litre jug of home-made lemonade (deliciously refreshing on a hot day).

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    A delicious almond dressing was drizzled over this salad with caramelized goat’s cheese

    Greek salad

    Greek salad

    As well as lunch, Bellaverde offers breakfast (it adjoins the Bellaverde Hostal) and dinner; at night the menu includes a few additional main course dishes. We still haven’t been for dinner (it’s about an hour’s drive home for us in season), but we intend to before the summer is out.

     Text & images ©Jan Edwards 2016