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  • Europe & the Mediterranean’s Most Romantic Hotel is in Palma de Mallorca …

    … according to publishers Condé Nast Johansens. The hotel in question is the five-star Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden, which received this accolade for 2022. It’s one of only five hotels in Spain to receive a Johansen Award for Excellence for this year.

    Can Bordoy is located in Palma’s atmospheric La Lonja district, and the jewel in its crown (for me, anyway) is its rear garden. Guests staying in the hotel have access to the heated outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, screened off from those who visit only to eat or have a drink in the peaceful outdoor space. Guests can also use the rooftop terrace and basement spa.

    Plant-based Cuisine

    The hotel’s restaurant, Botànic, offers a mainly plant-based cuisine (although fish and meat dishes are on the menu too), from the talented chef Andrés Benítez who has previous Michelin-star restaurant experience and has been at Can Bordoy since it opened.

    Can Bordoy has 24 suites, all of which have an opulent feel. If you’re the type of person who can’t pass a piece of velvet without stroking it, you’ll be kept busy staying in one of these suites.

    We had a wonderful one-night stay in Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden for Valentine’s 2019 – shortly after the hotel had opened. If, with Valentine’s Day less than month away, you’re considering having a romantic night away in Mallorca’s capital, Palma, this hotel is one you may wish to check out. And check into.

    ©Jan Edwards 2022

  • Mallorca’s Michelin Stars for 2022

    Spain and Portugal’s culinary Oscars – the Michelin stars – were announced this evening (Tuesday, 14th December) in Valencia, at a gala held at El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía.

    Here are the new stars for Mallorca:

    Estrella Verde for Sustainable Gastronomy: Maca de Castro, Alcúdia.

    Maca De Castro (right) with her brother and business partner Dani, pictured at their Palma restaurant Andana.

    Voro Restaurant in Canyamel (chef Álvaro Salazar) has been awarded two Michelin stars for 2022. Congratulations to Álvaro and all the team.

    Voro chef Álvaro Salazar, taken during our visit in June 2019

    Fernando P Arellano’s Zaranda – which had two Michelin stars at its previous location at Castell Son Claret hotel – moved this year to Es Princep hotel in Palma. Zaranda has been awarded one Michelin star for 2022.

    Stars Retained for 2022

    The following retained their one Michelin star for the coming year:

    Adrián Quetglas

    Andreu Genestra

    Bens d’Avall

    Dins by Santi Taura

    Es Fum

    Maca De Castro

    Marc Fosh

    Es Racó des Teix

    In July this year, chef Josef Sauerschell – who owns this beautiful restaurant in Deià, with his wife Leonor Payeras – wrote to Michelin to return the star that had been awarded to Es Racó des Teix every year since the year 2000. He’s not closing the restaurant – thank goodness! – but, now aged 66, has chosen to relinquish the pressure associated with having a Michelin Star.

    I’ve eaten a few times at Es Racó des Teix, but my most memorable experience of the place was having lunch there with The Boss after the lockdown ended and restaurants were able to open their terraces to diners again. We’re looking forward to returning in 2022 when this seasonal restaurant reopens.

    Jan Edwards 2021

  • World Olive Tree Day 2021

    Nature’s sculptures – ancient olive trees

    Forget Black Friday. Today, November 26th, is World Olive Tree Day and it’s being celebrated in Mallorca with a number of events organised by Oli de Mallorca. This annual global homage to the olive tree – grown across five continents of the world – began back in 2019. Today we acknowledge the positive role olive trees play against global warming.

    Olive trees are an icon of the Mallorcan landscape (particularly in the Serra de Tramuntana), and many luscious extra virgin olive oils (EVOOs) are produced on the island. One of my favourites is Aubocassa, from a beautiful finca near Manacor.

    In 2002 Oli de Mallorca became the Denomination of Origin for high-quality extra virgin olive oils produced to certain specifications in Mallorca. Today there are almost one hundred brands with this recognition.

    Click here to discover 10 things to know about Mallorca olive oil.

    Olive Leaf Teas

    It was chilly in Caimari, but free tastings of olive leaf teas warmed us well

    The olive tree produces more than olives, oil, and wood that’s turned into attractive items for the home. Anyone for an olive leaf tea? Two women in Mallorca – Katja and Kate – founded Dos Alquemistas (2A), to produce organic olive leaf tea blends, using leaves from the spectacular Son Moragues estate groves in Valldemossa. They harvest the leaves by hand during the tree-pruning season and upcycle them, converting them into infusions and powders. These two dynamic women are passionate about nature, the Mallorcan landscape, and the health benefits of olive leaves.

    Their range includes four infusions, olive dust, and olive latte.

    The Dos Alquemistas range is packaged in plastic-free, fully compostable bags.

    If coming to Mallorca in November, time your visit so you can go to the village of Caimari for the Fira de s’Oliva – the annual celebration of all things olive. This year’s weekend fair (the 24th) took place last weekend. And Oli de Mallorca offers a programme of interesting related events on and around November 26th, Olive Tree Day.

    ©Jan Edwards 2021

  • Review of Restaurant Fera Palma, Autumn 2021

    A corner of the intimate Library at Fera

    Four years have passed since Fera Restaurant and Bar opened its doors in Palma de Mallorca. Although we used to eat there quite often, we hadn’t been since before Covid. My last review of Fera on this blog has been replaced by this up-to-date version.

    When a French gastronomic-journalist friend wanted me to update my contribution to the Geo Guide Baléares, naming some of my favourite places in Mallorca, it was Fera Restaurant and Bar where we met for lunch. I’d mentioned it as a favourite in the last edition of the guide and it will be in the new one too.

    Style & Substance

    Fera’s a little tucked away in the heart of Palma de Mallorca but only a few steps away from the street known as Jaime III. The upper floor of the building – with a separate external entrance – is home to the Círculo Mallorquín, the social/cultural organisation founded in the mid-19th century. The 21st-century Fera occupies the ground floor with considerable style, good taste, and fascinating artworks.

    Entry is through an attractive, traditional courtyard, and then automatic glass doors, into a foyer. First impressions of the place are of understated luxury and effortless style. Contemporary art is everywhere, against a décor of neutral and warm earthy colours, created by Sheela Levy, one of the owners. It’s not surprising to learn that Sheela is an interior designer and feng shui expert.

    Three dining areas are available. As well as the main dining room, you can now eat in the rear garden. When we visited, thunder was rumbling and fat raindrops had started to fall, so we accepted the offer of a table in the Library – an intimate room also available for private dining for up to 16 people.

    Simon Petutschnig’s in the Kitchen

    I enjoyed executive chef Simon Petutschnig‘s cuisine even before he came to work at Fera – where he is now a partner in the business with Sheela and Ivan Levy. The charming, hardworking Austrian creates cuisine that’s essentially Mediterranean with Asian – particularly Japanese – influences. He’s an amiable, modest chef, who has worked in Michelin-star restaurants, as well as a couple of other restaurants in Palma.

    What’s to Eat?

    Like a few other restaurants now, Fera no longer offers its great-value lunch menu. A restaurant of this high quality doesn’t need to appeal to people looking for gourmet cuisine at a bargain price. Fera is a fine-dining establishment where discerning diners can choose one of Simon’s exquisite tasting menus or à la carte dishes (which include ingredients such as Wagyu beef, Simmental beef, and Gillardeau oysters).

    We opted for the Fera Tasting Menu (69 euros), which was preceded by a flavourful tomato-water ‘tea’ appetiser. I’d like to point out that there is also a vegetarian tasting menu for the same price.

    Premium ingredients are one of the reasons for the high standard of cuisine here. For instance, Simon uses sustainable Kvitsøy salmon from Western Norway – considered the finest salmon in the world. Our Kvitsøy salmon tataki dish was accompanied by avocado, ponzu, and mango and was bursting with flavour and freshness. Another example of quality is in the award-winning extra virgin olive oil, made from Arbequina olives grown on the Levy family estate Son Naava, near Montuïri. The luscious Son Naava EVOO is the only Demeter-rated biodynamic oil produced in Mallorca.

    Don’t miss the opportunity to choose from Fera’s Coffee Menu, which details aroma-and-tasting notes for each choice. Cuisine as fine as Fera’s deserves a suitable finale – accompanied by irresistible petits fours.

    Wines

    An optional wine pairing (supplement of between 45 and 80 euros) is available for each of the four tasting menus (which include a dinner-only White Truffle menu).

    We had wine by the glass, choosing one of the five wines produced with grapes from the Levy family’s Son Naava estate. The award-winning Son Naava Viognier was a deliciously fruity and silky white wine. I hope to drink it again.

    Service

    As you’d expect in a restaurant of this quality, the service was professional but friendly too, with explanations given at the point of each dish’s delivery. Serving staff are well presented, wear uniforms, and speak English.

    Verdict

    Fera Restaurant & Bar in Palma seems to have been elevated to another level since I last visited, making it the perfect choice for gourmet diners seeking a gastronomic experience in Mallorca’s capital. For some people, Fera’s prices may make it a special-occasion-only choice, but what a memorable eating-out occasion it will be!

    Fera Restaurant & Bar is open for lunch and dinner from Thursday to Monday.

    ©Jan Edwards 2021

  • Mallorca Chefs Unite for La Palma

    Eight chefs in Mallorca unite to help another Spanish island … La Palma in the Canaries

    Can you imagine what life must be like now for those who live on the island of La Palma in the Canaries? The devastating eruptions from the Cumbre Vieja volcano over the past month have changed many people’s lives forever. How will they and the island ever recover?

    Some financial help is to come from Mallorca, where eight of the island’s chefs have united to create a gastronomic fundraiser for those affected by the natural disaster in La Palma.

    A Sunday Lunch in Solidarity

    On Sunday, October 31st, eight chefs based in Mallorca – two of them of Canarian origin – will create the fundraising Chefs Unidos por La Palma gastronomic lunch.

    The event starts at 13:30h and takes place in the beautiful setting of the 5-star Castell Son Claret in Es Capdellà. The Julian Vaughn Jazz Trio will provide the music.

    The Chefs

    The chefs giving their time to create this fundraising lunch are pictured above. Miquel Navarro of the Michelin-star restaurant Es Fum (St Regis Mardavall hotel) and Jonay Hernández from the popular Canarian restaurant La Vieja in Palma are from the Canaries.

    Andrés Benitez creates plant-forward cuisine at the restaurant Botànic in Palma (Boutique Hotel Can Bordoy), and Joel Baeza is from the acclaimed Stagier Bar in Santa Catalina. Nacho Amores is from Ses Oliveres in Port de Sóller, and Toni de Pascual is the owner of Mel (Mallorca Eats Local) – which organises catering and gastro tours. If you watched the ninth edition of Masterchef in Spain, you’ll have seen him on your TV screens.

    Jordi Cantó (Sa Clastra) and Pep Forteza (Olivera) are the two chefs who’ve been the driving force behind the event, which was the idea of the two culinary teams at Castell Son Claret.

    More than a dozen local suppliers are contributing to the event with donations of their best products.

    How to Support Those Affected in La Palma

    Here’s a delicious way to do it: attend the gastronomic lunch on October 31st. It’ll be a one-off foodie experience to remember – and a way to show solidarity and support for La Palma in the Canaries.

    The cost per head is 200 euros and places are limited. Reserve yours now by calling 971 138 629 or email reservations@castellsonclaret.com

    ©Jan Edwards 2021

  • Llampuga – Lightning Fish – Back on the Menu in Mallorca

    The seasonal llampuga is now on your local fish counter

    On holiday long ago in the Florida Keys, I was offered dolphinfish in a restaurant. The waiter laughed when he saw how the ‘d’ word had alarmed me – I’d be a hopeless poker player. He then explained the dish didn’t contain a marine mammal, but a fish that’s also known as mahi-mahi, which we ate in the Caribbean. You may also see it on menus as golden mackerel.

    This fish – known as dorado in Spanish and locally as llampuga – comes into Mallorcan waters in the late summer and early autumn. Its arrival coincides with the end-of-summer storms that start to cool the island after the high heat of August. The name llampuga means lightning, which seems appropriate.

    Mallorca’s season for fishing llampuga is officially from late August until the end of the year, although it’s often hard to find on fish counters once the end of November comes. The boats that fish for llampuga are limited to a daily maximum catch of 150kg.

    Cala Ratjada in the northeast of Mallorca is the port most associated with this seasonal fish, and it traditionally hosts an autumn fair over a weekend – Fira de la Llampuga – dedicated to it. This year the usual fair was cancelled because of concerns about coronavirus among visitors who congregate in the port. But the town held a tapas route – La Ruta de Tapes de Llampuga – on October 10th instead, in which bars and restaurants showcased the versatility of the fish by offering tapas featuring llampuga.

    Cooking With Llampuga

    This delicious llampuga dish was part of a special menu last year at Ses Rotges in Cala Ratjada

    Mallorcans have a favourite way of using lightning fish in the kitchen, in a dish called llampuga amb pebrots vermells. Thick slices of the fish are fried and served with a rich tomato sauce topped with fried red peppers. You’ll see it often at this time of year on traditional mallorquín restaurants’ menus. Do give it a try if you like fish.

    British chef Marc Fosh, whose eponymous Palma restaurant has a Michelin star, offered some recipes and advice on cooking this seasonal fish in one of his Majorca Daily Bulletin columns last year; check out the link for some ideas.

    Bon profit!

    ©Jan Edwards 2021

  • Guided Visit & Tasting Menu in Sa Vall, Manacor

    S’Hort de sa Vall

    If you’re a fan of farm-to-table-eating events, I can recommend spending a Friday evening at S’Hort de sa Vall, just outside Manacor. This fertile valley is home to this well-kept farm, which recently opened its farm shop on Saturday mornings under the Venda Directa scheme. On Friday evenings – at least for the next two weeks – they offer a guided tour of the farm, followed by a tasting menu dinner with wine. They plan to introduce lunches rather than dinners soon as the evenings become cooler.

    On September 3rd, we went along with some friends for the Friday-evening experience … and had a really enjoyable time in an authentically rural Mallorcan ambience.

    We arrived at 7pm for the welcome and were then split into two groups for the tour; an English speaking guide is available. Our tour of the extensive farm lasted around an hour-and-a-quarter, accompanied by explanations about their processes and farming methods.

    Tastings

    Along the way we stopped at a table outside some greenhouses to sample their tomatoes and a couple of their preserves. We passed rows of strawberry plants out in the open air and were told to help ourselves to any of the remaining strawberries (it was quite late in the season). Our search among the leaves yielded a few sweet, succulent strawberries that tasted nothing like the watery ones you find in plastic punnets year-round on supermarket shelves.

    The tour concluded in an enormous barn, where we watched a video about the farm on a wall-mounted screen. I’d never seen such a thing in an agricultural barn before!

    Time to Eat & Drink

    We returned to the recently renovated building housing the shop and the large open kitchen for a glass of wine and samples of S’Hort de sa Vall’s own sobrasada (for me, the best I’ve tasted), and the cheese they sell. Then we went to our allocated table outdoors for our tasting menu, which was accompanied by wines from Macia Batle and followed by coffee and a rather delicious hierbas liqueur.

    Our tasting dinner was a different style of cuisine to that served at Terragust events, where the chef has Michelin-starred restaurant experience on his CV. The cuisine at S’Hort de Sa Vall is more like good Mallorcan home cooking – very tasty and made from fresh seasonal produce.

    Live music enhanced the evening: the trio Femení Plural comprises two good singers (sisters) and a guitarist. They are performing again on Friday 17th and Friday 24th September.

    The cost per head for these evenings is 45 euros, including the tour, tasting menu, wines, coffee, liqueur, and the music. Oh, and did I mention we all went home with a complimentary bag of fresh produce from S’Hort de sa Vall?

    Verdict

    An informative and thoroughly enjoyable evening. If you’re interested in finding out more about agriculture in the fertile Sa Vall area, this should appeal to you. Sitting under the stars beneath strings of lights added to the cosy ambience.

    Good to Know

    Wear comfortable shoes for the tour around the fields and surrounding tracks. And even though the daytime may still be warm, the valley cools quickly so be sure to take a jacket or sweater.

    To book – or for more details – phone 627 753 038.

    Copyright Jan Edwards 2021

  • A Hotel in Mallorca for Wine Enthusiasts

    Looking striking at night

    Our first stay at the 5-star Hotel El Coto in Colònia de Sant Jordi was in 2015, shortly after I read about it while editing a local guide to wines and wineries. Why was a hotel included in this guide? Because those in the know refer to El Coto as ‘the wine hotel’. With good reason.

    No Ordinary Seaside Hotel

    Hotel El Coto may be in a seaside resort with other holiday hotels and apartments nearby, but it’s a cut above many tourist hotels. The 50-room hotel has a superb cellar – both in terms of design and contents – with more than 200 Spanish (including a good choice of Mallorcan) wines on offer. Prices range from the affordable to the aspirational. Pingus, Vega Sicilia, or La Hermita, anyone?

    Wine enthusiasts usually appreciate fine cuisine too and those who dine at Hotel El Coto’s poolside La Pergola restaurant are in for a treat. Several years ago, the Navarrete family – who own and run the hotel – brought in chef Gerhardt Schwaiger as their culinary consultant. Gourmets who’ve known Mallorca for years will probably remember that Schwaiger was at the former 2-Michelin-star Tristán restaurant in Puerto Portals.

    Dinner at La Pergola

    You don’t have to be staying overnight in Hotel El Coto to dine here – but you do need to book a table because this restaurant has become popular among locals. And if you want to do full justice to the wine possibilities here, booking a room for the night is a good idea.

    A five-course dinner (with choices) costs 45 euros (including IVA). Individual dishes are priced so you can choose fewer courses if you wish. Drinks are not included.

    A Birthday Treat

    The Boss had his birthday at the weekend and I treated him to dinner and a night away at Hotel El Coto again. The hotel has the benefit of being around 100 metres from a beach and the fact that it faces one of the oldest salt flats adds to the interest of its location.

    Our Saturday night dinner was accompanied by live music from a pianist, playing the hotel’s white baby grand beside the pool. At night, the sun loungers are moved out of sight and atmospheric lighting around the swimming pool creates a magical ambience.

    For our 5-course dinner we chose: Waldorf salad; creamy soup of velvet swimming crabs with king crab (absolutely delicious); fresh red tuna with olive oil, sesame, and chive; hake with vegetable risotto and lemon butter, and fresh figs with cassis granita, vanilla ice cream and cheesecake cream. A memorable birthday dinner, for sure, but my camera photos didn’t do the food justice.

    We Love …

    … pretty much everything here. Hotel El Coto is spotlessly clean and well maintained. Each of the 50 stylish rooms and suites is individually decorated; types range from a single room to a two-bedroom suite with separate living area and views over the salt lakes. We stayed in the gorgeous Suite 211, overlooking the pool and gardens.

    Most impressive of all is the high level of hospitality offered by owners Myriam and Pepe Navarrete, their son Cristian, and their hard-working team. Little wonder that Hotel El Coto in Colònia de Sant Jordi has a high number of repeat guests … including us.

    PRICES CORRECT AT TIME OF WRITING

    ©Jan Edwards 2021

  • Fresh Produce from this Manacor Farm

    Anyone for plump, juicy tomatoes, recently harvested? Glossy peppers or aubergines? A thirst-quenching, cooling watermelon? These and more are among the summer vegetables and fruit grown in the beautiful, fertile valley in Mallorca near Manacor, known as Sa Vall.

    Open Saturday mornings

    This peaceful Mallorcan valley is home to the rural hotel Reserva Rotana, which has its own private nine-hole golf course. But most of the rest of Sa Vall is given over to agricultural activities.

    We know Sa Vall quite well and I often wished we could find a farm shop in the valley as it’s not too far from our home. Thanks to a new initiative launched a few weeks ago, it’s now possible to shop for fresh, seasonal produce on Saturday mornings.

    S’Hort de sa Vall

    S´Hort de sa Vall is the result of Terracor – which grows produce on land in different areas around Manacor – joining forces with Estel de Llevant, a non-profit organisation in Mallorca helping people with mental health issues and, in the case of this latest project, providing employment for five people in the farm shop and kitchen.

    Under the umbrella of the Venda Directa scheme, enabling the public to buy direct from producers, the smart farm shop opens to sell its well-displayed produce. As well as fresh fruit and veg, you’ll find local cheese, wines, preserves, pickles, sobrasada, olive oils, etc for sale.

    Stop for a Drink Too

    There’s more: the beautifully renovated building that houses the farm shop also has a large kitchen and space for event catering. On Friday evenings they offer a guided visit and tasting dinner – which must be booked in advance on the preceding Tuesday or Wednesday. As soon as the temperature drops, we’ll be there.

    After we’ve done our shopping, we buy a coffee to drink there, standing at one of the old wine barrels serving as tables. You can also have tea, one of the infusions produced by Estel de Llevant, or even a glass of wine. Prices for everything here are good value. Each time we’ve been, we’ve also been offered free tastings of some of their products.

    If your Spanish is non-existent, don’t worry: the lady in charge speaks perfect English, having lived in Birmingham, UK, for a while.

    Good to Know

    S’Hort de Sa Vall farm shop is open to the public on Saturday mornings from 9am until 1.30pm. From Manacor, take the road off the Via Palma signposted to Reserva Rotana, then continue on the same road past the hotel entrance, until you eventually see the greenhouses and green Venda Directa sign on your left. There’s plenty of parking.

    The website for s’Hort de sa Vall is still under construction, but you’ll find them on Instagram and Facebook.

    ©Jan Edwards 2021

  • A Look at Manacor’s First Brewpub

    Manacor’s first brew pub awaits you

    Beer enthusiasts are in for a treat in Manacor, with the recent opening of the town’s first brewpub, Brusca Brewpub. It opened on July the 15th and we made our first (of many, I’m sure) visit last evening.

    Brusca Brewpub is located in an 18th-century flour mill, which has been tastefully and carefully renovated to create an appealing venue for a drink and meeting friends. It’s surprisingly spacious as there are several different rooms, as well as a large terrace with tables in front of the microbrewery – where the fermentation tanks are visible.

    At the Helm of Brusca

    The new brewpub is the project of Miquel Gilbert and his girlfriend Neus Llopis, who are both in their early thirties. Miquel is the son of Manacor winemaker Miquel Gilbert, and is a winemaker too. Neus gained her master’s degree in Biotechnology, Advanced Microbiology, and Fermentation at the University of Tarragona, where she met Miquel. He was studying biotechnology but switched to oenology.

    They bought the old windmill in a quiet street (Carrer Ponent) in December 2017. The mill then was in a very poor state, as we saw when Miquel showed us a photo of the interior as it was when they first bought the place; we could only marvel at the amount of work that must have been necessary to create the Brusca we visited last evening. Paperwork, renovations, and Coronavirus meant that the project took a very long time; it has only just opened for business. Miquel and Neus did a lot of the detailed interior work themselves and they’ve created a good-quality product.

    What’s on Offer

    Brusca Brewpub has eight beers on tap – of which four are brewed on the premises. Beers on tap are available in 50cl or 25cl glasses. They also offer a gluten-free Toutatis beer and an alcohol-free beer in bottles.

    Wines by the glass are also on offer. I was delighted to find two flavours of my favourite brand of kombucha – Brilla, made in Llubí – at 3,50 euros a bottle. Water and a few soft drinks are also available.

    You can also snack at Brusca Brewpub, with eight dishes on the board last evening. We shared four good spinach croquettes with mixed salad and a portion of breaded chicken strips with home-made BBQ sauce.

    Our Verdict

    We loved Brusca Brewpub! We were there shortly after 6pm, the opening time. It was very quiet at that time – probably because the evening was still young and was very hot and humid. What a relief it was to enter the air-conditioned Brusca and enjoy some tasty drinks and food. We are already looking forward to our next visit.

    Good to Know

    Brusca Brewpub opens only on Thursday to Sunday evenings from 18:00h.

    It’s a short walk from the railway station, its car park, and taxi rank.

    Miquel and Neus speak English.

    I’ll award a big brownie point for having the drink and food prices on their website. Many of us these days like to have an idea of these before we visit. Find Brusca on Instagram and Facebook too.

    Jan Edwards ©2021