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  • Rialto Cafe: Style and the City

    How do you escape the many visitors that throng to Palma in summer? Some come for a break from the island’s beautiful beaches; some are cruise ship passengers – disgorged from their floating holiday homes to try and ‘discover’ Mallorca’s capital in a few hours. Most want to spend some time relaxing over a drink or something to eat during their visit.

    Respite, Relaxation & Rialto Living

    Cafés and bars on the main thoroughfares in the heart of Palma are often jammed with visitors, seeking relief from the sun and the pain of footwear inappropriate for pounding pavements. What they rarely find – unless they know where to go – is a brief respite from the bustle of this glorious cosmopolitan city.

    Here’s some local knowledge: that elusive respite can be found in Café Rialto in Rialto Living. This Swedish-owned lifestyle store is comfortably close (even in tottery heels) to the Paseo del Borne, home of designer boutiques and handsome architecture. Located in the lane separating the two Massimo Dutti stores, Rialto Living opened in 2007, but has doubled in size, after expansion within the sympathetically renovated palacio known as Can O’Ryan. This splendid building was the 18th-century home of Irish military doctor John O’Ryan who – fleeing the persecution of Catholics in Ireland – came to Mallorca and married Francisca Flor i d’Alemany, daughter of a wealthy local businessman.

    Eat, Drink . . .  Browse

    The expansion enabled the store to relocate and enlarge its café, which now serves home-made food all day until 8pm. Come for a coffee or cool drink and you can also enjoy anything from a cookie or cake to a more substantial savoury dish. My personal recommendation is their breakfast: carefully made coffee (with a chocolate), freshly squeezed orange juice and a small filled bread roll (good home-made bread).

    If you come to Café Rialto, take some time to explore the store – in particular, the art gallery on the upper floor. There are new exhibitions every five weeks or so.

    A view of the Rialto Café. Photo courtesy of Rialto Living.
    A view of the Rialto Café. Photo courtesy of Rialto Living
    The stylish Rialto Café. Photo courtesy of Rialto Living.
    The stylish Rialto Café. Photo courtesy of Rialto Living
    A blackboard lists the day's special dishes. (My own photo).
    A blackboard lists the day’s special dishes. (My own photo).

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • Mallorca’s Mesquida Mora Winery

    Healthy vines lead to healthier wines. That’s not just rhetoric for the Mallorcan winemaker Bàrbara Mesquida Mora – whose wines are the result of vineyards made healthy through biodynamic cultivation. Celler Mesquida Mora is a relatively new winery (started in 2012), but Bàrbara brought a barrelful of experience to her own project – having run her family’s winery with her brother Jaume for some years. It was during that time that the siblings discovered the benefits of biodynamic cultivation.

    Bodega Party

    Although fairly new compared to other wineries on Mallorca (Can Ribas, for example, dates back to 1711), Mesquida Mora’s wines are already widely appreciated and have been critically acclaimed. There was much to celebrate then when Bàrbara threw last night’s party to thank supporters, clients and friends. The Boss and I were delighted to have been invited, having known and been impressed by Bàrbara for several years. And having drunk quite a lot of bottles of her wines!

    The Magical Seven

    The winery is just outside the small town of Porreres – a town also known for the apricots produced in the area – and currently produces seven wines:

    • Sincronia – red, rosé and white. These are all designated Vi de la Terra Mallorca.
    • Acrollam (you may have spotted that this is Mallorca written in reverse) – white and rosé (Vi de la Terra Mallorca)
    • Trispol – red – from Cabernet, Shiraz and Callet (DO Pla I Llevant, Mallorca)
    • Sòtil – red – from Callet and Mantonegro (Vi de la Terra Mallorca)

    Bàrbara chose the wine names and the designs of the bottle labels with great care; the relevance of each reveals how much thought went into every stage of her own project. I found her description of the label for Mesquida Mora Acrollam Blanc particularly applicable to this talented and dedicated young Mallorcan winemaker:

    “The woman who wants to recover her identity, the femininity prepared to plunge into the sea, prepared to live new adventures and to lead change without relinquishing her personal way of being . . . The mandala formed by concentric blue and gold figures suggests perfection, the constant search for it, and the urge to surpass oneself. The perimeter of the circle evokes the return to the cycles of nature, like the vine itself.”

    Island-wide Support

    Bàrbara doesn’t just know how to make great wines: she also throws a good party. Wine flowed, tasty snacks were set out on wooden stalls on the large terrace outside the winery building, and a band played great music. Guests came from all over Mallorca – including the Mallorca-based British author Anna Nicholas and her husband Alan (who live in Sóller), the director of the Aimia Hotel in Puerto Sóller, and one of my favourite chefs (I do have a few), Santi Taura, who came from Lloseta with his wife.

    Bàrbara made a speech during the course of the evening and, although she spoke in mallorquin (only some of which I understood), her enthusiasm for her project and her gratitude for all the support she’s had were obvious in the delivery of words clearly spoken from her heart.

    No visit to Mallorca is complete without tasting the essence of this beautiful Mediterranean island: a wine from Mesquida Mora.

    Author Anna Nicholas and Barbara Mesquida Mora

    Author Anna Nicholas and Barbara Mesquida Mora

    Chef Santi Taura and his wife

    Chef Santi Taura and his wife

    A well-received speech

    A well-received speech

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • Potatoes from Sa Pobla – a Mallorcan Export

    Relatively few tourists visit Sa Pobla, a small agricultural town in the north of Mallorca – but many (particularly British visitors) will have eaten one of the crops grown in the flat fertile fields surrounding the town: potatoes. A large percentage of the new potatoes harvested from this area ends up on dinner plates outside Mallorca; they’re a valuable export crop. I was once told by a Manacor market stallholder that local housewives don’t like the additional work of cleaning small potatoes, preferring to use larger ones, so it’s not that easy to find Sa Pobla’s tasty new potatoes for sale.

    The Potato Fair

    Sa Pobla isn’t a town we’d go to simply for a day out, but we do visit a couple of times a year to see our gestor – who deals with all the boring (for me!) bits of producing our Spanish tax returns. After our visit on Friday, we went into the main plaza for a coffee, as usual. And it was a hive of activity: preparations were in full swing for the annual Fira Nocturna de la Patata – an evening event (over two nights) that’s a gastronomic celebration of the versatility of the potato. Barrels of beer were being unloaded and set up at a temporary bar in the middle of the plaza and participating restaurants and cafes were setting up their stalls.

    Sa Pobla prepares its potato party

    Sa Pobla prepares its potato party

    Potatoes, drinks, and music

    On Friday and Saturday evenings, more than 30 establishments offered taster plates of their own dishes, with prices ranging from one to three euros each. Each dish – including the sweet ones – featured potatoes. There was wine from a couple of local bodegas and artisan beer produced on Mallorca. Live music and children’s entertainment were also part of the event – as they are at most firas on the island.

    Potatoes even formed part of the décor of the stalls.

    Potatoes even formed part of the décor of the stalls.    If you like potatoes, and find yourself on Mallorca in early June next year, check out the Fira Nocturna de la Patata. And next time you buy new potatoes at your local supermarket, you may find they’ve come from Sa Pobla – a town that benefits more from exports than  visitors.

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • Mallorcan Olive Oil Named One of the World’s Best

    An extra virgin olive oil produced in the Manacor area has been named one of the best in the world. Llàgrima Verda (which means ‘green tear’) won a Silver Award in the New York International Olive Oil Competition 2014 – repeating the success they enjoyed in last  year’s competition.

    Spain leads the world in quality virgin olive oils

    The annual competition brings together a panel of international experts who taste nearly 700 extra virgin olive oils from around the world, to determine the very best. This year Spain won more prizes than any other country in the world.

    Mallorca on the world's olive oil stage

    Mallorca on the world’s olive oil stage

    Llàgrima Verda is produced by Els Olis Ínsula, from olives grown on some 2,000 olive trees on the Finca de Son Pere Andreu, on the outskirts of Manacor. The Aguiló Veny family decided to dedicate themselves to olive oil production and, as well as the prize-winning Llàgrima Verda, they produce two under the Ínsula name. One of these is made entirely from Koroneiki olives (a Greek variety they successfully planted on Mallorca) and the other a blend of Koroneiki and Arbequina.

    The perfect combination

    Llàgrima Verda certainly gets my seal of approval (not that I have the influential powers of the prestigious New York International Olive Oil Competition). Delicious with Flor de Sal from Mallorca and some good crusty bread. Who needs anything more?

    If you visit the Balearics, be sure to try some Llàgrima Verda. It’s on sale in Hiper Centro supermarkets across the islands.

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • ‘Food and Foot’ – Photo Exhibition Organised by Chefs(in)

    ‘Food and Foot’ is an interesting name for a photographic exhibition, but then it’s a very interesting and original concept, involving eight of Mallorca’s top chefs – members of Chefs(in), eight Mallorcan shoe manufacturers, and Nando Esteva, the award-winning photographer from Palma de Mallorca.

    I love food – but I also have a weakness for shoes. The great thing about footwear is that your feet rarely change size once you’re an adult – even if the rest of you gains a little weight from over-indulgence in food – so growing out of favourite shoes isn’t likely to happen. The combination of food and shoes was one I couldn’t resist.

    Food + Shoes = Art

    Chefs(in) is, as the name suggests, a chef’s organization that brings together top chefs from Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza. They organize some great foodie events, such as the Peccata Minuta tapas fairs held on Mallorca. This exhibition is their latest initiative and I was amazed to learn from Chefs(in) founder Miguel Angel Payeras that the whole project – from conception to inauguration – took only around a month.

    Chefs(in) worked with AFACA – the Mallorcan shoemakers’ association – and the local Inca council to put on the exhibition, which can be seen in the Museu del Calçat i la Pell de Inca until May 25th. From then on, each piece of photographic art will spend a couple of months in the restaurant of its creator. Eventually, all will be used at travel trade fairs to promote Mallorca’s gastronomy.

    Perusing the exhibits
    Perusing the exhibits

    The Concept

    The idea was that each chef would interpret a particular shoe from a culinary point of view, taking their inspiration from the textures, leathers, colours, the philosophy of the manufacturer or a visit to the factory. Under the direction of Chefs(in), Nando Esteva photographed the results, capturing the link between Mallorca’s best gastronomy and the island’s footwear industry.

    The participating chefs – and the shoes they interpreted – are as follows:

    • Tomeu Caldentey – Camper
    • Marta Rosselló – Apache moccasins
    • Andreu Genestra – Carmina Shoemaker
    • Santi Taura – Lottusse
    • Joan Marc – George’s
    • Tomeu Torrens – Coclico
    • Koldo Royo – Bestard Mountain Boots
    • María Salinas – Calzados Miquel

    The exhibition inauguration was a great success, with a high attendance, the chance to talk to the participating chefs – and, importantly, to taste some of their delicious creations. Congratulations to Chefs(in) and all involved. I look forward to future events!

    Meanwhile, if you’re on Mallorca before May 25th, a visit to the exhibition in Inca is recommended. You’ll be amazed at the amount of equipment involved in making shoes . . .

    Read more about the chefs involved on http://www.chefsin.es

    More pictures from the inauguration:

    Joan Marc (whose eponymous restaurant is in Inca), with his creation.
    Joan Marc (whose eponymous restaurant is in Inca), with his creation.
    Santi Taura's creation. Santi's restaurant is in Lloseta.
    Santi Taura’s creation. 
    Andreu Genestra being interviewed for TV. His restaurant is on the outskirts of Capdepera.
    Andreu Genestra being interviewed for TV. His restaurant is on the outskirts of Capdepera

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • The Best Way to Discover Mallorca’s Many Wines

    If you want to discover Mallorcan wines, a visit to the Fira del Vi, held in the Cloisters of Santo Domingo in Pollensa, is a must. This annual spring event usually takes place two weeks after Easter, and brings together around half of the island’s 70-or-so bodegas, whose wines are available for tasting by the fair’s visitors – who include wine professionals as well as those who just love drinking the stuff.

    Fine wine and fine weather - what more could we ask?

    Fine wine and fine weather – what more could we ask?

    The Fira del Vi was first held in 2004. We’ve been every year since 2005, always discovering new wines to add to our favourites. This year’s Fira was the weekend of May 3rd/4th. We paid 10 euros each to enter, and could taste as many of the wines as we wanted (using the tasting glass included in the price). This year’s fair attracted 34 bodegas, with some 185 wines available for tasting. Needless to say, we did not taste them all!

    Wines from Sa Rota

    Wines from Sa Rota

    It’s a wonderfully sociable event where you’re likely to find yourself chatting to a stranger about a particular wine or bodega, or bumping into friends. Everyone has a love of wine in common. Over the years we’ve got to know quite a few of the people who run the wineries and it’s always good to catch up with their latest news and activities.

    At a previous Fira we discovered Can Vidalet’s Onze – the first gin to be made on Mallorca. We bought a bottle then and it’s been my favourite gin since then. But there’s a new kid on the block: this year, we bought a bottle of Gin Eva (great name) – a new gin produced at a distillery in Llucmajor – made by the two winemakers from Son Campaner, http://www.soncampaner.es, a relatively new German-owned bodega in Binissalem. It’s an artisan London Dry Gin made on Mallorca, with juniper berries from the Es Trenc dunes and more than 20 different botanicals. We haven’t tried it yet, but look forward to doing so, after our livers have had their usual few days to recover after the wine fair!

    G&T anyone?

    G&T anyone?

    Some other news from the Fira:

    Fabrice de Suyrot from Bodega Conde de Suyrot (French winemakers based in Colònia de Sant Pere) told us they were going to be opening a new bodega building in the village. Currently, they make wine in the cellar of their home. http://www.condedesuyrot.com

    Bodegas Ca’n Vidalet, Pollensa, which produces the Onze gin I enjoy, have added two new products to their range: Cor de Cecili brandy and Marc de Cecili. http://www.canvidalet.com

    Son Sureda Ric, near Manacor, is the closest bodega to our home; we’re great fans of their wines. Javier produces only red wines of a high quality (and organic). Finca Son Sureda Ric now opens to visitors every Thursday (from 10:00-14:00h) and it’s well worth going to have a look around. Not only is the winery interesting (and the wines superb), the estate itself has quite a history and there’s a beautifully restored chapel you can visit. www.sonsuredaric.net

    Bodegas Angel, Santa Maria del Camí, is a relatively young bodega offering wines that are deservedly garnering plenty of prizes in wine competitions. Andres is Mallorcan but grew up in California and is a really interesting person to talk to. He is launching a new website in about a month’s time, including an online shop (for certain European countries). http://www.bodegasangel.com

    Sporty winemaker Andres from Bodegas Angel

    Sporty winemaker Andres from Bodegas Angel

    Barbara Mesquida Mora made wine at her family’s bodega, before starting her own eco-winery Celler Mesquida Mora, with her husband, in Porreres. The winery uses biodynamic practices in the production of the vines and Barbara told us that some of the wines are now sulfite-free. She’s passionate about her healthy and more authentic vineyard – and it shows in the quality of her wines. http://www.mesquidamora.com

    Once again, the well-organized Fira del Vi was an opportunity to discover more about Mallorca’s fantastic wines. Our fuller-than-usual wine rack is proof of that . . .

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • Hotel Review: Sheraton Mallorca Arabella Golf

    The outdoor pool at the rear of the hotel.

    The outdoor pool at the rear of the hotel.

    Strictly speaking, this hotel is called the Sheraton Mallorca Arabella Golf Hotel – but taxi drivers will know where you mean if you ask for “the Sheraton”. If you get a newbie, it’s on the Son Vida estate, just outside Palma.

    The longer-than-convenient hotel name reminds me of my former days of doing PR for Holiday Inn Worldwide (EMEA). When they acquired the famous Midland Hotel in Manchester (where Rolls and Royce met in 1904 and formed their legendary car company), head office dictated that the landmark property should, in future, always be referred to in media communications as Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza Midland-Manchester. Perhaps not surprisingly, local editors resisted all attempts to persuade them to use the new name and continued to call it The Midland.

    A First Sheraton Experience

    I’ve always loved seeing and staying in hotels and look forward to the times when we throw a few essentials into a suitcase and head off for a night away in another part of Mallorca. We’d not stayed at the Sheraton before, so why not? It was closed for nine months last year for a refurbishment that cost 13 million euros. I was curious.

    We stayed for one night in a double room (with private balcony and views of the Son Vida hills and lush greens of the golf courses).

    Here are some of the room highlights:

    • Huge bed, which lived up to its name of the Sheraton Sweet Sleeper;
    • Dallmayr coffee capsule machine in the room – no kettle and nasty instant coffee sachets here!
    • Spacious bathroom with walk-in shower and good assortment of amenities;
    • In-room safe that was big enough for my handbag and tablet;
    • Iron and ironing board in wardrobe. I loathe ironing, but it’s always good to be able to get the creases out of clothes if, like me, you’re not a great packer;
    • Clothes hangers that can be removed from the wardrobe, rather than the fiddly theft-proof ones;
    • Low-level small light at the side of the bed – just enough to let you see your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night, but not enough to disturb your sleep.

    Another good point to note: there is carpet in the corridors, so no clattering heels on marble floors to rouse you from your Sweet Sleeper slumbers.

    Spa & Food

    The hotel has a new Shine Spa – apparently Europe’s first in a Sheraton Resort. We didn’t use it, but the indoor pool and treatment rooms look good. Outdoors there’s a huge pool (only for looking at during chillier months), two tennis courts and a fitness pavilion.

    We ate in Es Carbó, which serves cuisine from several Mediterranean countries. As tapas fans we’d hoped to eat in Bodega del Green but it was closed that evening. If you decide to stay here and fancy tapas, best check that it’ll be open. In fine weather, you can eat alfresco in both restaurants.

    Just part of the breakfast buffet. Photo J Edwards

    Just part of the breakfast buffet.

    Breakfast is buffet style and with masses of choice – including a wickedly indulgent chocolate fountain with fresh fruit kebabs, as well as eggs cooked to order by a very friendly lady who’s been doing the same thing for years yet still seems to love what she does.

    This is first and foremost a golf hotel and the room prices include green fees for the three courses owned by Arabella on the Son Vida estate. Unfortunately golf isn’t my game (more of a Scrabble girl, myself), but golfers are in their element here, I’ve no doubt. Golf widows (or widowers) can indulge themselves in the spa or head to nearby Palma for some shopping and sightseeing. I was happy just to admire all those greens (it’s been a long while since I’ve had a lawn of my own).

    There’s a great team of people working here and we were impressed by all the smiles and greetings we had during our short stay. I wasn’t surprised to learn this week that they’ve been nominated for the chain’s Exceptional Achievement Award 2014.

    Little Things Count . . .

    The investment of thirteen million euros has brought a lot of improvements – in facilities and interior design – and resulted in a lovely hotel where we’d happily stay again. But one of the things that impressed me most about the Sheraton Mallorca Arabella Golf Hotel had nothing to do with corporate standards or mega-money investment.

    The one-eyed cat, rolling in the sunshine at the foot of a stone wall. Photo J Edwards

    The one-eyed cat, rolling in the sunshine at the foot of a stone wall.

    Walking around the gardens we came across a friendly one-eyed ginger cat, that seemed very much at home. Mentioning it later to a member of staff, we learnt that it had been ‘rescued’ as a feral kitten by the hotel and now lives happily in the grounds. Everyone there seems to care about the creature, which had a rough start to life but now enjoys the attentions of hotel staff and guests alike. And while the hotel was closed for refurbishment, the builders took over the task of making sure the cat was fed. Now that’s my kind of hotel!

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • Gold in the Soller Valley (Part 2)

    This is the second – and slightly edited – part of an article I had published in Food & Wine Journal in September 2013. Please see previous post to read the story from the beginning.

    Nature's bounty

    Nature’s bounty

    In the late 20th century, Sóller’s fortunes began to improve – thanks to Franz Kraus, who had moved to Sóller from his native Germany.

    In 1994 Kraus founded Sa Fàbrica de Gelats – which produces high-quality artisan ice creams and sorbets, using local milk, cream and fruit (and no artificial colours or flavours). Over the course of a year, they make around 120 varieties, of which some 20-35 (depending on the season) are citric-flavoured and made with freshly squeezed juice from the Sóller Valley’s own bounty. The company employs 22 people and, in season, they produce up to 6,000 litres of ice cream/sorbets a day. Come to Sóller and you have to put your ice cream head on and try as many flavours as you can manage. Their natural orange ice cream – something not often found – is particularly good.

    “I used to work for a chocolate company in Germany,” Kraus tells me. “I wanted to change my life, and moved to Mallorca. I love Sóller but when I came here there wasn’t any good ice cream on the island – only industrially produced types. I decided to use my experience of the confectionery business to change this.”

    A fantastic initiative

    Kraus has more than 300 citrus trees on his own property and, understanding the challenges faced by a farmer trying to sell his harvest and calculate his potential earnings, decided to take action. In 1996 – his ice cream business established – Kraus started Fet a Sóller (Mallorcan for Made in Sóller), as a means of marketing and selling the organic citrus fruit harvested in the valley. Fet a Sóller www.fetasoller.com now directly employs 25 local people, with more than a hundred farmers and producers indirectly ‘employed’. The citrus farmer benefits from year-round fixed prices, so he knows what he can earn: “And that’s important,” says Kraus. “His speciality is growing, not selling. When a farmer earns money from his citrus trees he’ll grow more.”  The harvest is around 500,000 kilos of fruit a year.

    Fet a Sóller launched its online store in 2003 and you can buy their products in some 17 European countries, including England, Germany, Holland and France. The range includes more than just unwaxed organic oranges, lemons, grapefruit and tangerines. The fruit is used by local artisan manufacturers of gourmet products such as marmalades, chutneys and flavoured vinegars – some of them Fet a Sóller-branded. Other products include high-quality olive oils, charcuterie, flavoured flor de sal, and the orange liqueur Angel d’Or, invented by local orange farmer Miquel Capó.

    Fet a Sóller works closely with local producers, such as Estel Nou – a not-for-profit organisation employing people with disabilities, which manufactures jams and preserves under the Fet a Sóller brand. “It provides disabled people here with work and an income – they are treated like able-bodied people,” Kraus explains.

    There are some 15 different types of oranges grown in the Sóller valley, each with its own characteristics. They include Navelina, Navel, Valencia and Canoneta (the latter only found in this area). “Another is Peret, harvested in summer,” says Kraus. “You can put it in your house and if there’s no humidity you may be able to keep it for 3-4 months.” Because of the different types, there are oranges to be harvested from November through to July.

    Sending vitamin C to your doorstep

    The oranges are organic and unwaxed; because they’re not treated with fungicide they have a shorter shelf-life (3-6 weeks) than a supermarket orange which, Kraus suggests, “could already be up to three months old.” Fet a Sóller has become the supplier of natural vitamin C to northern Europe: you can order a 10kg box of Sóller oranges (choosing from the types available at the time) and have them delivered to your home – whether it’s in Paris or Peterborough, Copenhagen or Cologne – within five days.

    The Sóller Valley is again thriving, with tourism also playing its part. Since 1997, motorists have been able to reach the town through the three-kilometre toll tunnel, as an alternative to the somewhat unnerving now-asphalted snaking mountain pass. The lovingly maintained old wooden train that once carried oranges from Sóller to Palma now carries camera-toting day-trippers. ‘Red Lightning’ may not live up to its name in colour or speed (the 27km journey takes an hour), but it offers a taste of nostalgia and some spectacular mountain scenery on its journey to the heart of the ‘Valley of Oranges’.

    'Red Lightning' is now one of Mallorca's best loved tourist attractions. Copyright FOMENTO DEL TURISMO DE MALLORCA. Photo by Eduard Miralles.

    ‘Red Lightning’ is now one of Mallorca’s best loved tourist attractions. Copyright FOMENTO DEL TURISMO DE MALLORCA. Photo by Eduard Miralles.

    Jan Edwards ©2013

  • Gold in the Soller Valley (Part 1)

    This is an edited version of my article published in Food & Wine Journal (quarterly), September 2013.

    Port de Soller. Photo courtesy of FOMENTO DEL TURISMO DE MALLORCA and taken by Eduard Miralles

    Port de Soller. Photo courtesy of FOMENTO DEL TURISMO DE MALLORCA and taken by Eduard Miralles

    Blinking in the bright sunlight, having emerged from the long dimly lit Sóller road tunnel, motorists see a roadside sign announcing their arrival in the ‘Valley of Oranges’. The sign is hardly necessary: for a large part of the year it’s impossible to miss the profusion of citrus fruit trees – laden with oranges or lemons – growing in Mallorca’s Sóller Valley. Given the importance of citrus fruit to the local economy, it’s not surprising that this area is also known as the ‘Valley of Gold’.

    In the handsome town of Sóller and nearby Port de Sóller, every bar, café and restaurant takes advantage of the delicious oranges grown on more than 120,000 trees in the vicinity. Visit in the first two weeks of June and you’ll even find a fiesta dedicated to oranges – the Fira de La Taronja – when the fruit takes the starring role in the festivities, and local restaurants create special dishes using oranges. Oranges (and lemons) have brought fame and fortune to Sóller.

    Exports to France

    The history of citrus cultivation here goes back to the 11th century, when it was introduced by the Arabs, who were in occupation. They recognised that this sheltered valley in the west of Mallorca – protected by the UNESCO World Heritage Site mountains – offered the perfect growing conditions for citrus trees, with water in abundance.

    The French Revolution prompted many people to flee France, and Mallorca became a refuge. The exiles sailed into Port de Sóller and it wasn’t long before they were sending shipments of the delicious oranges they discovered here back to France – which became an important market for Sóller’s citrus fruit. But in 1860 serious pest damage decimated the orange plantations and many local people were forced to leave the island to find work, travelling to France or Latin America. Others stayed to re-stock their plantations.

    A touch of the French on Mallorca

    When the islanders eventually returned to Sóller, their new wealth enabled them to build impressive properties, which reflected the architecture of the countries where they’d been working. There are Colonial influences in some of the grand urban mansions but, most evident, is the legacy of time spent in France: Sóller has more Art Nouveau (Modernismo, in Spanish) architectural style than anywhere else on Mallorca. To this day, the town still has something of a French feel about it.

    The reason that Sóller’s oranges were shipped from the nearby port was the mountain range, which effectively isolated the valley from the rest of the island: the only overland route was a twisting dirt track over the vertiginous Coll de Sóller mountain. This changed in April 1912, when a narrow-gauge railway service started between Sóller’s new Art Nouveau railway station and Palma – funded by the citizens of the valley town. It had taken five years to construct the 27-kilometre track, which involved excavating 13 tunnels through the mountains.

    Competition from Israel and southern Spain eventually reduced the export market for Sóller’s oranges, causing a downturn in the area’s economy.

    But fortunes began to change again in the late 20th century . . . as you’ll read next time.

    ©Jan Edwards 2014

  • Who Needs Pizza When Mallorca has Coca?

    Coca is the Catalan equivalent of a pizza, differing from its Italian culinary cousin in that cheese doesn’t feature – so it must be healthier (I tell myself). Eaten as part of a meal or as a snack, coca is usually served at room temperature.

    Most bakeries on Mallorca bake large rectangular coques and sell portions. A transportable snack, it makes a tasty alternative to a bocadillo (or filled roll). Individual coques may be oval or round and toppings may comprise only a few ingredients. Coca de trempó is probably the most common: a combination of peppers, tomatoes and onions – one of my personal favourites.

    You can expect to find coca on the menu (or buffet) in some traditional Mallorcan restaurants but, like all dishes, some versions are better than others. If the base is too thick, it turns claggy in the mouth and needs a good gulp of something (preferably one of Mallorca’s excellent wines) to wash it down. And, as with all dishes, everything depends on the quality of the ingredients.

    The proof is in the eating

    Last September, I took my father on a winery tour organised by Mallorca Wine Express. Mid-tour we stopped in the heart of a vineyard to taste a wine and excellent coca de trempó, made by the owner of the business. Sadly, my coeliac father had to miss the latter. I’ve never seen gluten-free coca for sale, so will trying making one for his next visit.

    Excellent coca at Miceli and Ca Na Toneta

    Last week I ate a superb one, as part of lunch at Miceli restaurant in the village of Selva (just a couple of kilometres towards the mountains from Inca). Chef/proprietor Marga Coll’s version had a crisp thin base and was topped with salt cod (bacalao) and vegetables. It was probably one of the best cocas I’ve eaten. For information, Miceli changes its menu daily, serving dishes based on what Marga has bought at the market that morning. . .

    I can also vouch for the delicious coca I’ve eaten at Ca Na Toneta in Caimari, and I’d love to hear if you have eaten any particularly good versions elsewhere on the island.

    Lunch today is coca de trempó – couldn’t let the photographic ‘model’ go to waste!

    Anyone for coca?

    Anyone for coca?

    ©Jan Edwards 2014